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That sucks, I've been there. Try heating the area then blowing compressed air from the opposite side. I ended up drilling mine out with a super small drill bit by hand.

Not sure what a stock blaster is but under my frame at the front is about 9 inches to the ground when the suspension is settled. It goes down slightly with rider weight.

My original ASR joints locked up during the first ride and I tried everything to get them to loosen up, ASR was no help and did not offer any replacements even though I just bought the arms from them. I ended up replacing them with identical joints purchased from another supplier and have been...

Yes these are long travel, using stock re-valved yfz 450 shocks which are 15.75" extended, not sure what they are closed though. At full bottom out the frame is about 2" from the ground. You can get the same amount of travel from the regular travel arms, it all depends on where the lower shock...

That's a very interesting comparison, it seems like these a-arms were made for the banshee spindle. You can see the angle of the top and bottom ball joints is almost equal where as the blaster spindle they are not the same. I wish I could get those ball joints but don't think they would allow...

That thing looks fun, awesome job!

Have you done a leak test to ensure there are no air leaks? Also check compression. It should idle fine with the stock pilot with the air screw adjusted properly.

I had the same problem with ASR heims, not sure if all their stock is bad but I bough some elsewhere locally which look identical but are super smooth even after a year of riding. The large joints are part number XMR12 and the smaller ones XMR8

I'm running a 65 pilot in my 34 PJ. My elevation is around 900 ft. It idles very good now, not perfect like the stock carb but good. Make sure the idle circuit is perfectly clean before you go changing jets. Take the whole carb apart, choke and everything and make sure all passages are clean...

Here is a Graydon proline exhaust, same as an f7. It was noticeably louder than my fmf.

I had to compress my spring a bit to get the retainer off. I just used 2 clamps on either side, it didn't need much force.

I guess that's why they call it an "air" filter. From what I've heard uni's do a better job of filtering out the mud however the water will still get through.

Well I guess that's what I get for running a K&N filter. Never again.

I can't believe this, only 10 hours on this top end and it's done already. I only have 1 bore left after this time :S. Would ingesting a bit of water/mud cause the cylinder to wear that much? I guess i'm going to put my stock jug back on for now.

Ok here are some more precise measurements: Cylinder: Inline with pin Top : 2.8374 Mid : 2.8334 Bottom: 2.8377 90 to pin Top : 2.8363 Mid : 2.8369 Bottom: 2.8372 Piston 10 mm from bottom of skirt 2.8311"

Well it's been a while since I tore my engine down but I found that the crank bearings and both rod bearings were in great shape and within tolerance. I purchased a micrometer and measured the piston and got an average reading of 2.8305" but just have a cheap inside caliper so I don't know if...

They worked great for me. Slid sideways very controlable, had decent traction on dirt and even mud. Also pretty decent in the snow. Seemed to last forever even with pavement riding. They were very stiff so no bounce off of jumps. The only problem I had was one came off the rim on one ride but...

Here is a picture of mine mounted up

I got them to go eventually, just lubed em up real good and put the air to them.

Where did this happen? I saw a cat that looked exactly like that on hawk lake a few weekends ago right in front of my cottage. Didn't see it crash but saw it afterwords and it looked very similar.