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I obviously ran into an issue trying to "CC" the chamber from this end using colored water. Its really "skinny" where the squish band is and water has a "skin" on it (thats why water bugs don't sink),so its hard to get the water to flow into thin areas. I could have used colored alchohol and it would have worked fine. I could have also added borax to the water to soften it,but for times sake I just taped up the hole,flipped over the head and filled it from the other end until it reached the bottom spark plug threads.

I obviously ran into an issue trying to "CC" the chamber from this end using colored water. Its really "skinny" where the squish band is and water has a "skin" on it (thats why water bugs don't sink),so its hard to get the water to flow into thin areas. I could have used colored alchohol and it would have worked fine. I could have also added borax to the water to soften it,but for times sake I just taped up the hole,flipped over the head and filled it from the other end until it reached the bottom spark plug threads.

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Now we need some color that we can see. Almost anything will do. I used a few drops of "color" from my ink jet refill kit. Other things that will work are food coloring,gatorade,thinned coffee creamer ,milk,brandy,etc.

Now we need some color that we can see. Almost anything will do. I used a few drops of "color" from my ink jet refill kit. Other things that will work are food coloring,gatorade,thinned coffee creamer ,milk,brandy,etc.

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Seal it with a little bit of vasoline,or grease.

Seal it with a little bit of vasoline,or grease.

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It goes on here...

It goes on here...

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looks like this.

looks like this.

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Save a buck! A flat cd case works great! drill a hole in it.

Save a buck! A flat cd case works great! drill a hole in it.

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Time to "CC" the chamber.

Time to "CC" the chamber.

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Here's a picture next to the arbor.

Here's a picture next to the arbor.

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Thumb is getting sore!

Thumb is getting sore!

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The combustion chamber is looking better!

The combustion chamber is looking better!

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Using a perfectly round geometrical object (sphere) to help sand the hemi combustion chamber that I already cut before this picture was taken. Almost anything will do. This was a large fishing anchor. A super ball works well too. When you dye the chamber blue,then use a ball with sand paper,you can see where you need to remove material.

Using a perfectly round geometrical object (sphere) to help sand the hemi combustion chamber that I already cut before this picture was taken. Almost anything will do. This was a large fishing anchor. A super ball works well too. When you dye the chamber blue,then use a ball with sand paper,you can see where you need to remove material.

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Squish band is done.

Squish band is done.

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Cutting an 11 degree squish band.

Cutting an 11 degree squish band.

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Here you can see that I blended the tranfers all the way to the edge of the iron cylinder liner,leaving a margin of about 3/32"

Here you can see that I blended the tranfers all the way to the edge of the iron cylinder liner,leaving a margin of about 3/32"

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Here's a shot of the tranfer ports.

Here's a shot of the tranfer ports.

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A distant view of the transfer ports.

A distant view of the transfer ports.

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This engine had its tranfer ports of the "Aggresive trail ported" cylinder matched to the engine case while the engine is assembled,and while it is still installed in the frame. This can be done! It also works VERY well! Why cheat yourself out of power that the cylinder can produce? It took longer to prepareand tape than to actually cut and blend. The cutting and blending took about 7 minutes. Some cases require alot of material to be removed. Some very little.

This engine had its tranfer ports of the "Aggresive trail ported" cylinder matched to the engine case while the engine is assembled,and while it is still installed in the frame. This can be done! It also works VERY well! Why cheat yourself out of power that the cylinder can produce? It took longer to prepareand tape than to actually cut and blend. The cutting and blending took about 7 minutes. Some cases require alot of material to be removed. Some very little.

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This picture shows how you must properly tape the opening of the case to prevent aluminum chips from entering the case. The job is already completed in this photo

This picture shows how you must properly tape the opening of the case to prevent aluminum chips from entering the case. The job is already completed in this photo

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Here is another shot of the tape job. While I was using the carbide double cut bit (6" long) I also had the hose of a small shop vacuume within an inch or two of the bit to evacuate the chips. The blue dykem is just a die I use to see my scribed lines. Other things work just as well...paint,marks-A lot pen,etc,etc.

Here is another shot of the tape job. While I was using the carbide double cut bit (6" long) I also had the hose of a small shop vacuume within an inch or two of the bit to evacuate the chips. The blue dykem is just a die I use to see my scribed lines. Other things work just as well...paint,marks-A lot pen,etc,etc.

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Here is a picture after the tape was removed,paper towels pulled out of the case,and dykem (blue dye) was removed.

Here is a picture after the tape was removed,paper towels pulled out of the case,and dykem (blue dye) was removed.

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Removing about .130 thousandths off of the head.

Removing about .130 thousandths off of the head.

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The arbor that I use to cut heads.

The arbor that I use to cut heads.

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Before and after

Before and after

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Here is the exhaust port using the porting templates. I stretched the porting all the way out to the exhaust gasket.

Here is the exhaust port using the porting templates. I stretched the porting all the way out to the exhaust gasket.

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