Carb screw issue

It does have aftermarket exhaust..It has a fatty pipe up front..or whatever its called..and then some kind of aftermarket muffler...fmf stickers are on it.

So I need to plug the line that is open? Ive noticed that fluid leaks out of it. I didn't trace that second line.

With you guys experience, what would you THINK could be the problem? Could it possibly be the mix I used? After reading a lot on these forums I not once seen anyone that said they used briggs an Stratton 2 cycle oil lol...Im a big newbie
 
I hope you guys are getting too angry with my posts lol. I'm just trying to learn some things. I've heard of reeds, but have no clue as to where they would be located.
 
I hope you guys are getting too angry with my posts lol. I'm just trying to learn some things. I've heard of reeds, but have no clue as to where they would be located.

Not at all! We just have to take this one step at a time. Like Awk mentioned the possibility of a broken reed. Remove the carb, and the boot that the carb attaches to by removing the screws that hold it in place. Once that is removed, you can remove the reeds to inspect.
 
ask away bud, thats what we do, and we'll have you answering questions in no time

the reedcage/reeds are located under the intake between your carb and the cylinder
 
I remember seeing something to the left of the carb that was being held with 4 screws. Im assuming this is what we're referring to..I will pop it off tomorrow and check them out. Is it noticeable if they are broken? or will I need to inspect them pretty good
 
Once the reed cage is out, check for a good seal on all pedals and that they are 100% intact. No cracks or missing corners. Just remember to install a new reed gasket when you reassemble, it will go between the reed cage and cylinder, no gasket needed between the intake and reed cage.
 
It does have aftermarket exhaust..It has a fatty pipe up front..or whatever its called..and then some kind of aftermarket muffler...fmf stickers are on it.

So I need to plug the line that is open? Ive noticed that fluid leaks out of it. I didn't trace that second line.

With you guys experience, what would you THINK could be the problem? Could it possibly be the mix I used? After reading a lot on these forums I not once seen anyone that said they used briggs an Stratton 2 cycle oil lol...Im a big newbie

how did i miss this post ?
take that bottle of briggs & stratton oil out your back door and throw it as far as you can, then drain all that crap mix out of your carb and tank.

mix 32:1 (4 ounces of oil per gallon of fuel) with a good 2 stroke oil designed for air cooled motorcycles only.
i highly recommend Maxima Super M (mix formula)

has it been rejetted for the FMF pipe ?
you'll need to remove the fuel bowl to check the brass jet in the middle
it'll require a 270-290 main jet

as for those unused oil lines....
i linked you to the oil injection delete thread in a previous post, but here ya go again:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-oil-injection-without-a-block-off-kit.3272/
 
Ok, thanks blasterfied.

Awk08, I figured something would be said about that mix. We don't have any atv/cycle shops around here. Would I be able to find that mix or similar at parts store? And do you think that mixture has anything at all on how it has started running the past couple days?
As for it being rejetted, im not sure...I did notice that the brass jet looked pretty new when I took the bowl off earlier..So maybe it was rejetted but not 100% sure
 
I will definitely do that. Thanks...and I will also look to purchase the correct fluid from that site lol. I was told years ago (stihl headge trimmers) that I could empty out the tank, run straight gas thru them on idle for about 25-40 seconds, drain that gas, and add the coorect mixture and they'd work properly again. And they sure did. I wonder if that could be the problem, and if I could do that on this quad? The trimmers basically done what this quad has done to me
 
Thanks guys. I believe I'll order some of this and try it before I do anything else. If this fails then I'll get into taking things apart. Info was much appreciated. I'll fill you guys in on what happens
 
I will definitely do that. Thanks...and I will also look to purchase the correct fluid from that site lol. I was told years ago (stihl headge trimmers) that I could empty out the tank, run straight gas thru them on idle for about 25-40 seconds, drain that gas, and add the coorect mixture and they'd work properly again. And they sure did. I wonder if that could be the problem, and if I could do that on this quad? The trimmers basically done what this quad has done to me

Whoever told you that gave you some bad advise. That's a recipe for disaster!!
 
When you put the reeds back in you may need to use some hi temp Copper RTV to get a leak free seal.

Tension the bolts to 5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally [a little bit on each at a time until full tension].

Warning do not over tighten or you may warp the cage and cause a leak.

FMF jetting info

FMF = #260 main jet.
Aftermarket air cleaner + 1 or 2 size larger.
Air box lid off +2
32:1 pre mix +1
Needle in the middle slot.
32.5 pilot jet
Plug chop to confirm, as temperature, elevation and humidity come into the equasion

Do a leak test before you start the engine.

14mqc1y.jpg
 
Well before I go to taking things apart again I went and got some 32:1 atv mix and some NON ethanol gas. I drained out old gas mix and added the new. It is still doing the same thing BUT it seemed to take a little more throttle on idle before bogging. I only let it run for about a minute or two. Should I let it run any longer than that? Should I start adjusting the screw?

Awk, I purchased that oil you linked me to on eBay. Hopefully it'll be here this week. Is it a 32:1 mix?
 
Do not run it anymore until we figure out what's wrong.

That oil can be whatever ratio you mix it at. Our blasters have proven to like 32:1.
That's 4 ounces of oil per 1 gallon of fuel. You'll need a measuring cup
or a ratio-rite cup to get it right.