OK. First I want to say thanks to everyone for the information. I never expected to get this much feedback. It kinda went off subject when everyone was arguing about the chemical make up of NOS. Honestly I don't really care what it is made of. I just know it works and works good. With that said, after reading all the posts it is not just something looked cool and I thought about it. Too many people said it cant be done and I'm the type of person that if someone tells me it can't be done I have to do it just to prove them wrong. And I am crazy enough to try it on my own sh*t. So after picking through everyone's ideas here is what I came up with, and obviously I would have to perfect it but this is somewhere to start. You fabricate a fuel cell and mount it where your oil injection bottle used to be, you somehow install a small fuel injector in the intake and run a small fuel pump off the headlight circuit to keep the line pressurized with your rich fuel mixture. I chose the headlight circuit because you can turn off the headlight and turn on the pump and it already has a built in regulator or it would blow the headlight bulb. Next mount a small 2lb bottle somewhere on the frame with a battery powered solenoid to inject the NOS through a fogger, the battery will also be charged off the headlight circuit. You somehow reverse the TORS switch in the throttle so when you hit WOT the system energizes to open the injector and close the solenoid and poof, you got a boost. When you let off the throttle the switch opens and turns off the system. What is everyone's thought on this. And will it be usable or will it increase the power so fast that you will just flip over backwards?
Nitrous Oxide
- Thread starter wotis11
- Start date
money that i have to waste !
today I called a buddy of mine, scott friedhoff, who used to run the hillclimb circut, i asked him if he's ever seen nitrous on a 2 stroke, he quickly replied..... "lots of times" and that "the nitrous 2 strokes were outlawed at the local beaverdale hillclimbs"
we got to talkin about him helping me with this before i got to ask him why they got banned ????
although he has never run it himself, he said he had run injected nitro methane on his last hill shooters - cr 250's and 500's
i'm sure he has connections to guys who used to run nitrous.
he's supposed to call me over the weekend to further discuss this
and sounded excited to try it ?
my only problem with this is, it's prolly only for a novelty, as it seems the hillshooters outlawed it, gotta check with the
blair bedford dirt drag rules (unless tater feels like chimimg in here ?)
but dragging doesn't really interest me anyhow, this is just an experiment, if it happens at all ???
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What you are talking about with powering everything off the headlight won't work exactly like that. The headlight is powered by a 55watt output lighting coil which outputs ~14VAC. Fuel pumps run on DC power. In order to transform AC power to DC power, you need to do a "DC conversion" which involves installing a regulator rectifier (instead of the AV regulator that's installed from the factory). This is what I was talking about not having enough power output either.....
If you were willing to install a battery on your quad to run the pump off the battery only, you wouldn't need a separate fuel tank, you could simply "T" off the stock fuel line into the carburetor and pump.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to have a second tank with a richer mixture to make up for what the NOS takes out?
No, the nitrous doesn't take any oil out of the mixture, it's just that adding it makes the fire hotter and adding it without more fuel to compensate runs the engine lean.
AAnd I understand the whole AC/DC power. I have been a certified automotive technician for over 10 years. I don't know very much about a blaster though. If the headlight runs off AC power how can you go to wallyworld and buy car headlights to replace your headlight?
Tungsten filament light bulbs produce light by passing electrons through a very thin wire in an inert environment. The wire doesn't actually doesn't care which WAY the electrons pass through it. It just so happens that other equipment runs off 12VDC so the car had a 12VDC power supply system, they just designed the switches to put 12VDC through the filament! 
OK. Now I understand. So couldn't I use a small rectifier like the ones that are put in an automotive alternator to change it from AC to DC? That wouldn't take up alot of space and it wouldn't add much weight. And if I did that there wouldn't be a hard for a battery.
One like that MIGHT work but those generally also have a field excitation circuit built in which the blaster doesn't need. Ricky stator makes a DC conversion regulator rectifier specifically for "DC conversions".
The problem is, I figure the pump is going to need about 4 amps of power to run. The upgraded (high output) stator coil for the blaster puts out ~75watts AC power. At a 100% conversion efficiency (which you CANNOT GET) you'll only have about 5 amps of power. In the real world, you might be lucky to get 3 amps of power through the conversion, the rest will be turned into heat at the reg/rec...... If you have a 4 amp draw and a 3 amp output either you're not going to be able to run the pump long, you're not going to be able to run the pump at full capacity OR you're breaking the first law of thermodynamics and will bring all of physics crashing down around us....
OK so you would need the battery but you would only use the NOS for short periods at a time so with a rectifier you could keep the battery charged.
The risk is, as stated before, that without proper monitoring, the battery COULD become discharged enough not to keep the fuel pump pumping properly but with enough power to open the solenoids which could result in a very dangerous lean condition.
That's how I would do it. the battery may require a little maintenance, but if you're running nitrous, it's going to be part of life with it. I would go to a step colder plug if you know that you're going to be using it on a ride. (1 number higher on an NGK spark plug).
the tuning will be a little tricky at first, but start small and work your way up on the shot.
the only time you'll really be able use it will be wide open fields, which will be the only time that you want to have the system even armed.
Right. It would have to have a separate arming switch to turn the fuel pump off when not in use to keep from draining the battery and giving the battery time to recharge. And not accidentally pushing the button
i believe your talkin smallest, lightest, cheapest batteries known to mankind
i'm not beyond running whatever battery it takes
quit thinking "light dragger only" ! ??
I'm not building a drag bike. At first I was thinking just to have more power. Now its just to see if I can get it to work.
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