Wont idle

Diesel Don

New Member
Apr 25, 2013
21
0
1
41
Altmar,NY
Just bought an '00 Blaster yesterday. The guy said it is bored .30 over and it has a FMF Gold Fatty. Air filter is off, its missing a bolt on the intake and the 2 side cover for the throtle mechanism on top of the carb. So what he told me is: Hes messed with the carb and he isnt a carb guy at all. Hes messed with it for weeks now and so fed up he sold it to me for 550. Thing is in good shape, good compresion but with the seat on it it stalls. Wont idle. I dont know if the jets need to be changed for the pipe or what. I havent broke open the carb yet. He said he has the needle set at 5 down which is obviously saying there is a carb problem. It starts preety easy. Like i said ive had it for a day and its at my uncles for him to tear into the carb etc. Are there any other ideas on what the problem could be? Thank yall
 
needs an airfilter, and that intake bolt before ever trying to start/run it again

it should also be leakdown tested to ensure the intake/reeds are sealed, and all other combustion chamber gaskets and seals.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

floats...
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

airscrew at 1.5 turns out to start..
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/

needle clip in the middle position

270 - 300 main jet for that FMF pipe.
start large (300) and plug chop down....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
 
Well if you put the seat on and it bogs that tells me it needs more air. I would do the following

1- get a bolt for the intake
2- leak test it. (contact member "awk08" for a tester.)
3- get a air filter
4- completely disassemble carb and give it a GOOD cleaning
5- you should have the needle in the middle slot, 32.5 main, and 260-280 main. Air screw about 1.5 turns out.
6- check compression (don't know if you did the ol foot test.)

Do those and see what happens.
 
needs an airfilter, and that intake bolt before ever trying to start/run it again

it should also be leakdown tested to ensure the intake/reeds are sealed, and all other combustion chamber gaskets and seals.........
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

floats...
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

airscrew at 1.5 turns out to start..
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/

needle clip in the middle position

270 - 300 main jet for that FMF pipe.
start large (300) and plug chop down....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/


Your like quick draw McGraw! You always beat me.
 
Thank yas. For my fmf pipe i need a 260 main and correct me if im wrong but it also says i need a 32.5mm pilot. Is that not the stock pilot jet that comes in these mikuni carbs?
 
Yes leave the pilot stock, needle in the middle and that 260 main is just their recommendation if everything else is stock. Weather/climate as well as altitude are other factors to consider. I would start with a 280, 290 or even 300 main to be safe, plug chop to confirm, then work your way down one size at a time if needed !
 
Im 50-60 miles away from you. Im in Parish/Altmar area. You got just about the exact setup as mine except mines .30 over with a fmf gold fatty. If you dont mind me asking what did you put in yours for a main?
 
I went to home depot and got some metal screen, doubled it up and cut to size. I used one of the fasteners that keep the air flow tube fastened to the carb as I had a couple spares lying around. Let me go take the pic and ill post it up !
 
This was done last summer and I havnt had any problems what with it like this !

w6r3io.jpg