Hi guys new here and looking for some help on my wife's Blaster. It's a 1986 that a few years ago the in-laws gave to us since my wife was the only one of the three girls to ride it. The quad needed some work, so I put a new wiseco piston kit in it and FMF pipe and silencer boyesen reeds a 28 mm Keihin PWK carb uni filter took the lid off the air box now the quad is pretty peaky power-wise. Would porting and head mods help? Who does good work on this quad ? How much would it cost? I put the PWK on cause the stock Mikuni was shot! Also what do you guys do with the hole at the top off the case when you block the oil injector? Appreciate any help you guys can give me! I'm looking for more torque to make the quad a little more user friendly for trail riding!
Who's good at porting blasters?
- Thread starter New to 4S- Joe
- Start date
Check the VIN to see what year your Blaster is. They weren't made until 87, which would have been an 88 model.
Porting and head mods will absolutely help. KOR, Flotek, Passion Racing, K&T (if you have money and time) and Redline Racing are the only people that I'd feel comfortable recommending you send anything to.
A stock carb will bring a little of the bottom end snap back. Have you done a plug chop and leakdown test? A lean engine can make it feel like it wants to rev, but doesn't actually do what you'd hope when you start to pull.
Porting and head mods will absolutely help. KOR, Flotek, Passion Racing, K&T (if you have money and time) and Redline Racing are the only people that I'd feel comfortable recommending you send anything to.
A stock carb will bring a little of the bottom end snap back. Have you done a plug chop and leakdown test? A lean engine can make it feel like it wants to rev, but doesn't actually do what you'd hope when you start to pull.
Yeah I checked it quad is running good. You are right I'm wrong I do have a 1988 model. Is porting and head mods my best option for more torque?
Guys what it is a leak test? Why are you recommending it?
Guys what it is a leak test? Why are you recommending it?
Last edited by a moderator:
a leak test lets you know if your motor is air tight.If it has air leaks it will run lean,cause tunning issues,and could fry a top end.search the forum for threads on how to leak test[its very important].awk08 sells leak testers or you can build 1
Are the Blasters prone to leaks?
Do you have the website for KOR? Did a search and couldn't find them.
Last edited by a moderator:
Did you put much effort into the searching? http://lmgtfy.com/?q=KOR+porting
All 2 strokes are prone to air leaks!
Leaks usually rear their ugly heads around the reed block carb boot area, usually caused by poor tightening of the bolts, which warp the boot.
On engines with high hours the crankshaft oil seals are prone to leak!
All 2 strokes should be leak free from the air intake, to the silencer, as any leak can cause improper jetting!
KOR, stands for,,,,, kenoconnorracing, just search that.
Works every time, Google is your friend!
Leaks usually rear their ugly heads around the reed block carb boot area, usually caused by poor tightening of the bolts, which warp the boot.
On engines with high hours the crankshaft oil seals are prone to leak!
All 2 strokes should be leak free from the air intake, to the silencer, as any leak can cause improper jetting!
KOR, stands for,,,,, kenoconnorracing, just search that.
Works every time, Google is your friend!
Define torque.
I very rarely like to refer to torque and HP as anything other than "power" when on the subject of powerbands. Since HP is a derivative of torque and means nothing more than "this amount of torque at this RPM", you can throw the term "horsepower" out the window, but good luck getting that to catch on. It's like saying, "I'll be there in an hour" instead of saying, "I'm traveling 80mph and I have 80 miles to go." You effectively have the same thing, just in different terminology.
If you mean bottom end power, then yes. Head modifications and porting for the range at which you need more power will absolutely bring out more power. Modifications to 2-strokes differ wildly from the Gran Turismo game series where "porting and polishing" a head will result in more power across the board. With 2-strokes, this is rarely the case. What you want is more area under the torque curve with an emphasis on bottom end power. Any builder knows this. The 5 goals of every professonal builder is to reliably and efficiently create more power over a wider range and at the correct range. The limiting factors here are their knowledge and your funding.
The short answer is that you need to call a few builders and say this:
I have this: _____________
I want it to do this:_____________
I have this much money: $_____
What do you recommend?
Simply sending them an engine with $400 taped to it and a note that says, "port it and send it back" is a bad idea and will likely get you nothing.
I searched Kor Racing and got a bunch of different sites. I did look up Ken OConnor racing. Didn't know they were one and the same.
I'm not new to 2 strokes been riding motocross bikes for a long time. I've alway had Eric Gorr at forward motion port my bikes. I thought talking to guys on here that have been into these blasters could lead me in the right direction with people that specialize in blasters. With the mods I've done to our blaster it's a screamer. I've even thought for my wife that a flywheel weight would help tame the hit and make the power more usable, but most people want everything they can get out of the blaster and lighten the flywheels to spin faster. I want a broader powerband with more low- end instead of a light switch powerband that I have now. Maybe what I want isn't capable with this engine? I don't know that's why I'm asking?
Last edited by a moderator:
Defiantly achievable with a Blaster, it can be a 15hp fun bike, a very competitive 35hp screamer, a very fast ???hp drag bike and anything in between.
You name what you need it to do, and someone may come up with some answers!
You name what you need it to do, and someone may come up with some answers!
Yeah it's amazing what some people have done with this great little quad! Just looking for the right combo of parts to fit my wife better! Make it a little more user friendly!
Where will it be ridden, what terrain, what speed?
The stock Blaster is quite surprising on what it can do.
The stock Blaster is quite surprising on what it can do.
We've been riding on trails that are hard packed and some that are sandy. Some are tight and some are opened and fast. Yeah it's a fun quad and yes it's fast. Faster than I thought it would go. It's just peaky!
If you have a steady hand and a dremel or similar tools you could try and do it yourself.. It would be more of cleaning casting flaws and improving airflow etc but even that little bit goes a long way.. There are some very good videos on diy porting for the Blaster done by Ken oconner. Nothing crazy but I guarantee if you follow the videos and do it correctly you will be pleasantly surprised..
Great site here and welcome.....
Great site here and welcome.....
I'm all for DIY porting, but you'd better be very realistic about what you expect. The KOR videos are a must for technique and general info, as are Bell and Jenning's books. I'd recommend quite a few others, but what I have in my collection demands quite an understand beforehand. Fluid dynamics basics are an absolute must. The more you know about fluid dynamics, the better. Only after AT LEAST a month or so of some very intensive thinking, conversation, and research would I recommend you try to port anything. Even then, you'll still be 2-stepping going into it. After you get over that initial hump of starting, then you have to worry about an entirely new set of problems like reaching the area that you need to work on, patience, control, measuring and duplicating, etc.
If you don't have a dremel, don't buy one; buy a grizzly flex shaft grinder instead. Cheaper, more control, smaller, more reliable, and takes any bit that a dremel can take. I have 3 dremels and I've yet to pick any one of them up after I got the Grizzly set and CCs right angle piece.
If you don't have a dremel, don't buy one; buy a grizzly flex shaft grinder instead. Cheaper, more control, smaller, more reliable, and takes any bit that a dremel can take. I have 3 dremels and I've yet to pick any one of them up after I got the Grizzly set and CCs right angle piece.
just for the record..... a guy in oregon called ken after his porting videos were all up on youtube.
he'd never touched a cylinder with a dremel before, followed kens vids exactly, added a toomey pipe and A/M airfilter and rejetted.
he called to report how excited he was after having the bike dyno'd, and that it produced 28 HP. !
kens vids are made for and explained so even the inexperienced can follow them with the templates, get decent results, and mucho satisfation of doing it yourself.
no college courses needed
he'd never touched a cylinder with a dremel before, followed kens vids exactly, added a toomey pipe and A/M airfilter and rejetted.
he called to report how excited he was after having the bike dyno'd, and that it produced 28 HP. !
kens vids are made for and explained so even the inexperienced can follow them with the templates, get decent results, and mucho satisfation of doing it yourself.
no college courses needed
Thanks Man for the greetings!If you have a steady hand and a dremel or similar tools you could try and do it yourself.. It would be more of cleaning casting flaws and improving airflow etc but even that little bit goes a long way.. There are some very good videos on diy porting for the Blaster done by Ken oconner. Nothing crazy but I guarantee if you follow the videos and do it correctly you will be pleasantly surprised..
Great site here and welcome.....
thanks for the tip on the Grizzly flex shaft grinder going to look it up!
I do think guys that I'll leave it to a professional. The guys that have been recommended are priced reasonably and from what I've read so far seems the head would be best re-chambered.
