pics of the Diamond J Customs kit off a quad

WOW people cant we just be polite ? All we need is to respect eachother opinions, obviously 370 dosent agree with the DJ kit and the improvements it brings to handling, thats is opinion.... all i can say for my own experience is YES it does makes a diference, it makes the stering wayyy better, not to mention the banshee shocks, i personaly can say its a great upgrade for what it costs.

But also consider this... sooner or later the A-arm ball is gona give, and you all know they cant be replaced (unless you cut and weld), so you will need (i will to) to replace the A-arms, so it may be better to save some $$ and just go for custom A-arms, no need to spend money 2 times on making the front wider.... This was really the only downside to my DJ kit.

Respect !!I:I I bealive we are all the same BLASTERS here.


Its all love,370 is like me...when we feel strongly about something we dont mind butting heads..nothing personal. lol Ive talked to 370 before,and hes a cool dude. Just diff opinions is all.

Simple way to put it...buy the kit,try is..dont like it sell it..if he does like it..keep it.
 
so basically they bend in to put it back inline to where the the stock mount is well if i can measure it up we have a nice press break at work i can get a bend in it that way.
is it only the top with the bend in it? the bottom one looks just flat. maybe i will attempt some a-arms this winter i can make a jig that slides the desired amount so everything stays where it should while extending how far i want them
also when i get back to the place i get my steel from i will be getting a sheet of aluminum to do skid plates.

Youre right both plates on top need to be bent forward, the bottom ones are straight as an arrow.
The forward bent is 0,4 inches.
 
Youre right both plates on top need to be bent forward, the bottom ones are straight as an arrow.
The forward bent is 0,4 inches.


i hope you are saying 1/4 inch??? if my ball joints are shot i guess its time to make me some we have the steel the bender the welder i would probably just plate off the bottom and save making me a skid plate
well i havnt had a good look at the blaster it does look as thou he didnt take the greatest care of it all i am hoping is it will make it thru my trip to the sand in 3 weeks then it will be completely torn down with all the bushings and bearings replaced and see if i cant find me a bigger motor at least a 250 thats water cooled if not find me something a little bit crazyer like a cr500 if there is any around here for sale
 
i hope you are saying 1/4 inch??? ...
...i would probably just plate off the bottom and save making me a skid plate...

more like 1/2 inch.
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Good idead, that way you dont loose them :) i wonder how i lost my frame skid :( that thing was kind of big
 
for 120 bucks, id rather save a few more bucks and buy a good set of used suspension. the DJ kits aren't any good. hate to break it to ya. but i agree with 370.

yes it makes the bike more stable, but the handling is def NOT better. how can widening teh center of the frame make it handle better? all of the "best handling quads" are skinny in the front. hmm coincedence? i think not. not to mention the tie rod angle is all screwed up, it gotta be really hard on those. plus suspension wise, you dont gain anywhere. the ride def isnt better, if you think it is, its nowhere near where it SHOULD be.

also after you bolt all that EXTRA steel on, guess what? youve just made your bike heavier.....as i recall, everybody wants lighter bikes.

do what you want, wouldnt be me. im not a suspension dealer or "pro" quad owner/rider either. and since you mentioned it, if it was so f*cking good, how come the pros dont use it? you figure somebody would say, hmm why bother with all this expensive sh*t when we can bolt up some steel plates, hell lets combine them!! theres a reason for that....!!!!!!!!

don't bother. oh and for future reference.....370 knows his sh*t. not saying ill of anyone else, just letting you know...he's been around and knows his way around quads.
 
well..now since i have time to respond to ur comment

1.who the f*ck are you to know how many quads ive had in my life or how many years ive been ridding. You dont,ive own over 10 quads also,and no not at one time..must of them were banshee's and 400ex's ive also owned a 450r.
Not to mention the numbers of dirt bikes and street bikes ive owned...so YES i do know about handeling and the DJ kits are NOT sh*t,esp if ur on a budget. Not saying is is the BEST way,but it deff isnt a bad way either. So dont give some bullshit about that and YES CNC {sorrrrrrrryyyyy for saying C&C,big deal} do make bends in metal..as you have found out AFTER to talked sh*t and did research on it. I build cars buddy,so i know sh*t when it comes to handeling. So other then sitting here talking sh*t with you....



O.P. the D.J. Kits work well,ive asked MANY questions about them bc i was wondering how well they held up and gotten great feedback...and exp wise..i have rode a 660 raptor with a DJ's kit..threw trails and some jumps...not any problems..or DRAMATICCCCC bumpstear.
btw, hate to pick your response apart, but dirtbikes and streetbikes dont use this type of mod, so mentioning them here holds no bound. what i'm sayin is its useless to mention them because they dont apply. i realize you are just trying to say how much you've experienced and all, but those 2 have nothing to do with this topic.

also wider isnt always better either....and suspension doesnt work straight up and down....it works in an arced motion. in a curved way so to speak. that kit just f*cks with everything. the whole geometry is all f-ed up. it doesnt even make sense. its just a gimick somebody made to sell and make money to people not doing research and looking into it. it even says "not for use for jumping" and also mentions bumpsteer too.....so you can't tell me there is no bumpsteer, the manufacterer even says there is....!!!!!!!!
 
bagged mazda.. if you have the tools accessible and the know how to build them.. why not bend and weld up a set of a arms instead? i was out looking at the blaster chassis today in comparision to a 250R frame and a banshee frame.. and it looks to me that the blaster front section is just a tad wider than that of a 86 250R but alot thinner than that of a banshee.. if you could set up a set of arms for your blaster you'd be leaps and bounds ahead of that DJ kit and if youi were real good youi could build them as a "long travel" setup.. and youia nice long shock like a 250R shock..

that kit really gets under my skin.. there are numerous things about it that just don't play together well.. for instance.. my buddy and i were talking about this topic while i was building a couple banshees engines this evening and he brought up a few good points. such as.. if you look at the front suspension of a quad you'll notice that the lower a arms and the tie rod run parallel to one another.. but by moving the mounting point of the lower a arm outward you change that angle and these two parts no longer run parallel.. this in itself causes major bumpsteer.. also the spindle arm where the tie rod conects is designed to hold and the tierod stud striaght in the socket BUT not plumb with the ground.. the whole assembly is canted to hold the tierod at that angle but not move the tie rod "stud" away from straight with the wheels pointed stright.. same with the lower mounting plate on the steering stem.. but now when you move that spindle outward and mounted at a different angle because your lower a arms is at a different angle then designed the tie rod "stud" cannot sit striaght while holding the tie rod at the different angle from which it was designed.. so now you have the tie rod end that is extended more one way than the other... there for limiting travel in one direction.. when the stud binds against the body is when you stress that part.. and we all know what happens after a part is stressed one to many times. this same principle goes for ball joint studs... with the a arms at a steeper angle the balljoint is more likely to bind when the a arms travels downward.. see what i'm getting at here? your putting unneeded stress on IMPORTANT parts.. which is probably why they say "not intended for jumping" i'm just tryin to shed some light on a subject that is often brought up.. and as rockstar said your suspension works in a arch.. not striaght up and down... this is why it's important that joints have the fullest range of motion as possible.. when you drastically change the angle of the parts making up the suspension they cannot work together properly..
 
well..now since i have time to respond to ur comment

1.who the f*ck are you to know how many quads ive had in my life or how many years ive been ridding. You dont,ive own over 10 quads also,and no not at one time..must of them were banshee's and 400ex's ive also owned a 450r.
Not to mention the numbers of dirt bikes and street bikes ive owned...so YES i do know about handeling and the DJ kits are NOT sh*t,esp if ur on a budget. Not saying is is the BEST way,but it deff isnt a bad way either. So dont give some bullshit about that and YES CNC {sorrrrrrrryyyyy for saying C&C,big deal} do make bends in metal..as you have found out AFTER to talked sh*t and did research on it. I build cars buddy,so i know sh*t when it comes to handeling. So other then sitting here talking sh*t with you....



O.P. the D.J. Kits work well,ive asked MANY questions about them bc i was wondering how well they held up and gotten great feedback...and exp wise..i have rode a 660 raptor with a DJ's kit..threw trails and some jumps...not any problems..or DRAMATICCCCC bumpstear.
cars huh? what kind exactly? i'm currently doing a frame up build on a 69 elacmeino super sport 396.. the 396 is long gone so i'm gonna cheat and use a 454... possibly stroked to a 496... and badge it as a 396... been in the car game and the quad game a long time.. been wrenchign since i could walk... i just really see these kits as a dangerous setup.. and the company seelgin them preying on younger people who don't know any better..
 
All youre technical explanation is right, about the angles and the weird way the tie rods sit, and the extra weight it ads to the quad and everything else, but never the lesse its always better then stock and its still a cheap upgrade considering the options, any good A-arms will be over 500$, not to mention in my case i´ll have to trow 150$ more for shipping and customs. I dont disagree with you guys, proper A-arms will always be much better then a DJ kit, but a DJ kit will always be better then stock.
Maybe one day ill spend 600$ or 700$ on A-arms, but for now 150$ upgrade is just fine.
 
All youre technical explanation is right, about the angles and the weird way the tie rods sit, and the extra weight it ads to the quad and everything else, but never the lesse its always better then stock and its still a cheap upgrade considering the options, any good A-arms will be over 500$, not to mention in my case i´ll have to trow 150$ more for shipping and customs. I dont disagree with you guys, proper A-arms will always be much better then a DJ kit, but a DJ kit will always be better then stock.
Maybe one day ill spend 600$ or 700$ on A-arms, but for now 150$ upgrade is just fine.
i see where you come from about the shipping.....but IMO stock would be better and SAFER than that DJ kit. but if youre willing to give it a try, i wont talk you out if it.
 
i guess everyone has thier opinion....
i personally think the dj kit would be great for flat track racing..
honesty pros dont use the dj kit because THEY HAVE SPONSORS!!
i dont race so i dont see the point in spending about a $1000 on a suspension.
i personally dont understand why people dump soo much money into a-arms for a weekend rider threw the trails or dunes..
 
i see where you come from about the shipping.....but IMO stock would be better and SAFER than that DJ kit. but if youre willing to give it a try, i wont talk you out if it.

I agree on being safer with stock, i know, i bented a rod extencion, but i still say the handling is much better with the DJ kit, about the jumping, cant really say, i just go for long and low flighing i dont hit big jumps, so anyone reading this thread and thinking on jumping a Blaster on DJ kit, might want to listen to RockStar and 370.

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Going low
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w.o.t. left curve
 
ok, maybe for flat track i could see, but you want it low, not neccessarily wide. obviously somalia, you havent ridden a bike with suspension setup for you....because if you have, you would realize how much better it actually is. it is actually easier and more comfortable to ride. it doesnt beat you around nearly as much. esp when you add in the comfort of an antivibe stem.

if you shop smart, you dont have to spend $1000. i have less than $400 in my whole front suspension. and i had to buy tie rods!!! keep your eye open for good deals, thats all.
 
i guess everyone has thier opinion....
i personally think the dj kit would be great for flat track racing..
honesty pros dont use the dj kit because THEY HAVE SPONSORS!!
i dont race so i dont see the point in spending about a $1000 on a suspension.
i personally dont understand why people dump soo much money into a-arms for a weekend rider threw the trails or dunes..
take it from a former flattrack racer (i wish we had a track again) that kit will not be good for a flat track racer... getting the swaybar to mount up to that abortion would be interesting.. and you have said that flipped wheels ar a bad idea? tell flattrack racers that.. you'll get laughed off the track.. in fact my quad was set up with an "offest" wider on one side taht the other for oval racing.. i ran 1 flipped tecate 4 wheel on one side.. ran the hub on the outside of the rear wheel on the other side.. in oval track racing your looking for low.. and for weight distribution.. and mine was also set up with STOCK a arms.. and i was very close to 50" wide. as you lower a quad they get wider.. when the a arms are parallel with the grond your quad is it's widest.. since liek me and raocksta have stated before.. the suspension moves in an arch.. so at that point the suspenion is at it's "apex" point in it's radial travel. there is alot more to oval racin then making your quad wide..
 
and as for weekend rides having good suspension.. 8 years back i probably would have said the same thing.. put in a few hard years on that blaster and tell me how your knees and hips feel.. DJ kit or not.. me being a cheap ass when i was 17-18 years old i'm paying for it now in my middle 20's.. had achy knees for a few years now.. i'm only 27.. now i ride with elkas on one shee.. ohlins on the other.. suspension will not only tear your body up less. but make you faster, more consistant, and save your ass in some "tricky" landings.. i've put some time in on my buddies long travel leager chassis 250R.. off the top of a dune.. 15-20ft landed on the left FRONT tire.. saoked that up like i landed on all 4 on a pillow.
 
cars huh? what kind exactly? i'm currently doing a frame up build on a 69 elacmeino super sport 396.. the 396 is long gone so i'm gonna cheat and use a 454... possibly stroked to a 496... and badge it as a 396... been in the car game and the quad game a long time.. been wrenchign since i could walk... i just really see these kits as a dangerous setup.. and the company seelgin them preying on younger people who don't know any better..

You mean El CAMINO?
 
try this with your DJ kit......see if you survive....also try that with stock suspension.....i guaran-fricken-tee you wont land nearly as nicely and cushiony (made up word, bitches) as i did....barely felt the landing...thats why you spend the money for suspension, and not some cheap ass DJ kit. I ALSO DON'T RIDE A "PRO QUALITY BIKE EITHER" its just setup correctly.

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