NEEDING HELP BAD TODAY PLEASE!!!

[Larry's Shee]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual.17325/
That may help.

Also, if the oil line isn't removed and the carb properly plugged/capped, the oil pump delete isn't done correctly.

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual.17325/
That may help.

Also, if the oil line isn't removed and the carb properly plugged/capped, the oil pump delete isn't done correctly.

not undone from carb but tank is gone and line is plugged with a screw

 

[03blasterboy]

you will need a vaccum cap on the nipple of the carb where the oil injection line connects.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-oil-injection-without-a-block-off-kit.3272/
It pretty much causes an airleak like you have it. you should invest $32, I think it is anyway, into awk08's leak tester, it is the best thing you can buy for your blaster imo.
definitely saved my butt once or twice.

 

[tbrooks]

And if the oil pump is still in there, that means it is being run dry and it will burn it up and could cause you other problems, here's a quote from that thread linked above:

but here's the problem........


the whole reason for bypassing the oil pump and going premix is because of the likelyhood of the little plastic gear failing. you are doing the bypass, but leavign that gear in there so that when it fails, it sends small peices of plastic all through your motor. now, with no oil pumping through it, that little plastic gear is now without lubrication on its bearings and will probably fail sooner.

your heart is in the right place, but you need to do all the research as to why its done before diving into a project.

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

And if the oil pump is still in there, that means it is being run dry and it will burn it up and could cause you other problems, here's a quote from that thread linked above:

I removed the siding and pump took gear out and slapped it all back together and put it on and it still bogs at full throttle. Someone please help. Do i need a new carburetor? Do i need to rejet? This is stressing me out. I know that its running too rich with airbox lid on. I have a twin air airfilter, Toomy silencer, And a Wiseco top end on it. I bought some boyeson reeds but i dont know if they're needed. All help is mighty appreciated this is bothering me bad guys! Please someone help!

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Also, I did remove lines and used black mack silicone over the holes in the side!!

 

[Blaaster]

Did you leak test?
Is the float level correct?
Has the idle been adjusted?
What size jets are in the carb?
Where is the needle set?
Have you done a plug chop?

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Did you leak test?
Is the float level correct?
Has the idle been adjusted?
What size jets are in the carb?
Where is the needle set?
Have you done a plug chop?

1.) yes
2.) yes
3.) yes
4.) 230 stockers
5.) I need a diagram of the needle and all i tore the caburetor apart and couldnt find the needle. I know its stock though
6.) No because my pops says the plug chop is a waste of time he swears its the tors unit but that wouldnt cause it to run rich would it?

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Did you leak test?
Is the float level correct?
Has the idle been adjusted?
What size jets are in the carb?
Where is the needle set?
Have you done a plug chop?

Float level is stock. Hasnt been fooled with

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Did you leak test?
Is the float level correct?
Has the idle been adjusted?
What size jets are in the carb?
Where is the needle set?
Have you done a plug chop?

I know for a fact that its getting too much fuel.

 

[Blaaster]

Float levels change with time.

This Pop says that your Pop is too old school, plug chops save engines every minute of the day.

TORS has nothing at all to do with mixture.

Pull the drain pipe up above the level of the float bowl and crack open the drain, the level of fuel should roughly to the top of the gasket midway along the bowl.. With the petcock on.

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Float levels change with time.

This Pop says that your Pop is too old school, plug chops save engines every minute of the day.

TORS has nothing at all to do with mixture.

okay I will chat with him on it. How do i measure float level? and ill let him know on the plug chop

 

[Blaaster]

See above post.

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Whats drain pipe? and how do i "crack" it?

 

[BrandonH]

It's the screw on the bottom side of the float bowl. If you put a piece of clear fuel hose on the nipple on the bottom of the float and hold it up to the carbs side and open the screw it will tell you where the level is set.

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

It's the screw on the bottom side of the float bowl. If you put a piece of clear fuel hose on the nipple on the bottom of the float and hold it up to the carbs side and open the screw it will tell you where the level is set.

i dont quite understand you. Turn the carburetor sideways?

 

[BrandonH]

Sound like it's running lean to me. Rich would seem boggy, but lean would have no power at all. When my CR got a leak it would idle fine but give it gas and it had no power and would cut out.

Take a breath, and read the good advice people are giving u. What were your leakdown results?

 

[BrandonH]

i dont quite understand you. Turn the carburetor sideways?

No keep it on the bike.

This is the float bowl

Put a piece of clear fuel hose on that nipple (if there isn't some already), and turn the hose facing up towards the gas tank. There is a screw on the side by the nipple, that's the float drain screw. Crack it open and the hose will fill with gas the same level that's in the carb. Hold the hose next to the carb with the screw still open, the level should be about even with the with the surface the bowl seats on the carb. Just like Blaaster said

 

[CHEVY_TRUCKS_72]

Sound like it's running lean to me. Rich would seem boggy, but lean would have no power at all. When my CR got a leak it would idle fine but give it gas and it had no power and would cut out.

Take a breath, and read the good advice people are giving u. What were your leakdown results?

It is boggy. It will start and you can rev it but when you give it gas fully it bogs down. Then if you try to drive it the first gear wouldnt pull me up my drive

 

[Blaaster]

Unfortunately people describe bogging as too rich and too lean.

Warm up the engine and then go for a ride, whilst riding pull out the choke a little, if it goes better you are too lean on the mix, if it gets worse you are too rich!