Hi I'm new to the forums and anyways I made my account because of my blaster. I have a 2000 model with a fresh top end and a twin air foam air filter. I have set the air mixture screw all the way in and then took the thing out 1.5-2.5 screws out and it still won't pull right. If I give it gas full throttle in neutral it just bogs out. If I remove the airbox lid it runs like a pro. pulls like a boss. No bottom end power it seems. Its 5 pm here and I need to fix it by 8 pm. Please someone help!
NEEDING HELP BAD TODAY PLEASE!!!
- Thread starter CHEVY_TRUCKS_72
- Start date
Before you ride you will need to do 3-5 heat cycles and re tension the head and cylinder nuts.
The idle needs to be adjusted as per specs before riding.
A fresh top end and full throttle is not a good combination!
There should be at least a #250 main jet to conform to the air filter mod.
The idle needs to be adjusted as per specs before riding.
A fresh top end and full throttle is not a good combination!
There should be at least a #250 main jet to conform to the air filter mod.
yes but i have a good idle it just bogs real bad when it is given full throttle. Without air box lid its fine bud. And i dont think i over oiled it. if i did is there a way to clean it? and i may have to re torque head
You may be able to squeeze the excess oil out.
After heat cycles you must re torque the nuts on the head and cylinder.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
After heat cycles you must re torque the nuts on the head and cylinder.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Its got my boy worried to death. and no I haven't re torqued it. and 3-5 heat cycles? im kinda new to this sir. I though maybe rejet?
You need to also set the float level otherwise you may be getting more than enough fuel in the mix.
Running better without the lid is a sign of flooding!
Have you pushed the choke off?
Running better without the lid is a sign of flooding!
Have you pushed the choke off?
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Google blaster heat cycles
And then after cycles re tension head to 20ft lbs, cylinder to 18ft lbs.
Then break in the engine at no more than 2/3 throttle for 2 tanks of fuel.
Full throttle must be avoided until after break in!
And then after cycles re tension head to 20ft lbs, cylinder to 18ft lbs.
Then break in the engine at no more than 2/3 throttle for 2 tanks of fuel.
Full throttle must be avoided until after break in!
Take the filter off and try it with the lid on. DONT drive around like that if it works try and squeeze out some oil. If it doesn't work your exhaust might be clogged.
Also do everything blaaster says, he knows a ton.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNzDS14Lel8
He has a lot of good videos too.
Also do everything blaaster says, he knows a ton.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNzDS14Lel8
He has a lot of good videos too.
A heacycle is bringing the engine up to operating temperature after a rebuild. After the 3 heat cycles, you should retorque the head and cylinder. The heat generated from running the cycle's allows everything to expand and seat it.
The retourque after the 3rd will insure that it's tightened up to spec's.
Please share what it was for future reference and educational purposes, some one else may gain from your findings.
what was it?
i know the full toomey exhaust instructions are 310 main jet,and remove lid or drill hole,but if you do not have the header pipe then that is not correct
.....
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...&ie=UTF-8#q=toomey+exhaust+yamaha+blaster+pdf
i know the full toomey exhaust instructions are 310 main jet,and remove lid or drill hole,but if you do not have the header pipe then that is not correct
.....https://www.google.com/webhp?source...&ie=UTF-8#q=toomey+exhaust+yamaha+blaster+pdf
haven't torqued head but i did put new air mixture screw in from the carb rebuild kit that my dads friend didn't put in, and it doesnt sound different. i may have to rejet. i have no idea though. im new to this hobby. i love it though. its just confusing me. if i give it full throttle it bogs out. without air box lid it dont. i was told to mess with air mixture. didnt work i dont guess. it doesnt barely pull me up my drive. what do i need to adjust my floats to? like, i dont quite understand sir. thanks for all the help guys. its cool to find someone who is even attempting to help. i will try upping the idle, adjusting air screw then lowering the idle. thanks so much!
Your float level should be set to 20 - 21.5mm. There is a thread in the carb section that explains how to set them.
You'll get it figured out. There was a time when we all didn't know much about these bikes. Just listen to the advise given, and ask questions if your confused.
You'll get it figured out. There was a time when we all didn't know much about these bikes. Just listen to the advise given, and ask questions if your confused.
okay. i made a break through. nothing i didn't already assume but now i know for sure. i had my youngest boy hold the throttle still bogging and i took bolts out of air box. every time i lifted air-box lid it raised a bunch of rpms and sounded as if i was revving the throttle.. it has to be too rich, thats all it seems it could be. anything that can fix? and if it needs to be re jetted then i have no problem doing this. my elevation is 2,595. and if need to be re jetted i may need someone to send me some info on how far to screw jet in lol. all help is absolutely appreciated. it would be very helpful if someone had time i could get on Skype with ya. thanks for all the help guys!!
if you can upload pics of carb set up or entire quad it might shed some light...It is ok to remove air box lid but when you do, you need to up the main jet,take carb apart and read what is stamped on main jet.floats may be getting stuck flooding it as well.
what year is it?
what plug is it?
1 1/2 turns of airscrew is 540 degrees,have you tried adjusting carb while it is running?
idle is under seat near airbox big flat head screw,turn it to right to up the idle,left to decrease idle
what year is it?
what plug is it?
1 1/2 turns of airscrew is 540 degrees,have you tried adjusting carb while it is running?
idle is under seat near airbox big flat head screw,turn it to right to up the idle,left to decrease idle
