My new blaster

danblaster

New Member
Oct 4, 2014
15
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holland patent new york
I just picked this blaster up for 400 dollars. What do you think ?. Its got Douglas rims with whole shot tires, vforce 3 reeds, dynaport pipe and silence, new top end, k&n air filter. Maier racing plastics. So what do you think?
 

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The engine seems strong but there are a few issues I have had that I need some advice on. Like, I noticed rust on the crank when I had the top end off. Also when I pull the clutch in and slip her into frist gear she starts creeping a little bit. What does that mean?. Oh and a major issue I have it that when I hit 4th gear the front end wobbles. I replaced the front end bearing and the wobble still persists
 
Believe it or not the best power is produced on the wrong/destructive side of lean.

A rule of thumb, always leak test any used 2 stroke you buy!

Creeping can be put down to dirty old oil, incorrect adjustment or oil with a too heavy viscosity.

Adjusting the toe may help cure the wobble.

Even tyre pressures can help.
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I checked the ball joints they have no movement that isnt normal. I replaced the bearing, so I guess its the hubs that are just worn down. What do you mean adjust the toe?. I ordered brand new hubs and spindles
 
The best power is produced on the rich side then?. Ill go home and check the air presure also and then ill see how dirty the oil is. What oil should I use in the clutch area?
 
Check the a-arm bushings. Grab onto the front tire and wiggle it back and forth looking at where the a-arms bolt to the frame. If you see them moving, order some new bushings.

Oil for the clutch case---- get something designed for wet clutches that does not contain friction modifers. A fast easy solution is some ATF type F.
 
Welcome and it looks like a good score! This is what your looking for http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5337529790&icep_item=360810677137 An air fuel ratio on the lean side will give you more power, but will cause excessive heat and lack of oil and ruin your engine. Some rust on the crank means that moisture got there somehow, could be the PO left it sitting with the top of, but lets hope not. Leak testing is a necessity anytime you get a 2-stroke, anytime you do any top end work, and at least twice a year for good maintenance
 
I checked the ball joints they have no movement that isnt normal. I replaced the bearing, so I guess its the hubs that are just worn down. What do you mean adjust the toe?. I ordered brand new hubs and spindles

The length of the tie rod ends are adjustable , rather than the wheels looking straight ahead the front of the wheels should be 10mm off the centreline pointing together.
 
Check for a bent rim as well..Ohh almost forgot. Welcome to the forum. Good people here and all the info you could ever need..


@ Blaaster , The front tires should be toed in 10mm ?
 
Welcome to forum, nice score.
Your clutch cable may need tightened or may be stretched i had that same symptom, and the front wobble could be bent rim, egg shaped bad tire, one tire having less pressure, one tire not being in toe.... But im leaning more towards a bad ball joint and possibly one on one of the tie rods, possibly where it goes into the steering stem if your saying the others feel fine, or a bent tie rod.
 
Im going to hold off on the bushings and caps until I see if the new hub/spindles will fix it. I now know from looking at the toes that they're not set right. How do I set them to 10mm toed in?. Also where do I put the atf type f fluid I just bought for the clutch?. I dont see a cap or anything to poor it in. Im doing the air leak test on the engine this winter when I make it a 3mil stroker 240 big bore. Untill then I need to do the dreaded carb tuning because it needs it. Where can I find a good kit with a few main jets and everything I need to tune the carb?.