if ya already have a PJ, or would like to find a carb for cheaper than the PWK's, by all means go with the PJ, there's enuf of us running them to get ya tuned, and once tuned, it's a good carb
but it'll be pwk for me soon
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Keihin PWK vs PJ???
- Thread starter mjgnslngr
- Start date
if ya already have a PJ, or would like to find a carb for cheaper than the PWK's, by all means go with the PJ, there's enuf of us running them to get ya tuned, and once tuned, it's a good carb
but it'll be pwk for me soon
The TM34 is a great carburetor. Their main drawback isn't that they don't produce good power, but that every japanese dirtbike manufacturer didn't use them factory like they did the PWK and PJ's.
The PJ's choke knob/idle adjustment can be a pain in the butt but overall the carburetor works well to feed the beast.
The PWK in my experience is a bit more forgiving than the others. The TM is VERY sensitive to the needle (Even more so than your PJ Awk!
) and the PJ's choke knob/idle adjustment has a tendency to twist and turn even without meaning to during choking operations making for a seemingly erratic idle sometimes.
The decision really comes down to how much you want to spend.... The TM, PJ, and PWK are all good carburetors and there's enough knowledge on this forum to help troubleshoot/dial in any of them. I suggest getting the one that looks to be in the best condition for the least amount of money. If you find a deal ($60-$80) on a PJ or TM, jump on it. If you can't find a good deal, then look around for a PWK.
The PJ's choke knob/idle adjustment can be a pain in the butt but overall the carburetor works well to feed the beast.
The PWK in my experience is a bit more forgiving than the others. The TM is VERY sensitive to the needle (Even more so than your PJ Awk!
) and the PJ's choke knob/idle adjustment has a tendency to twist and turn even without meaning to during choking operations making for a seemingly erratic idle sometimes.The decision really comes down to how much you want to spend.... The TM, PJ, and PWK are all good carburetors and there's enough knowledge on this forum to help troubleshoot/dial in any of them. I suggest getting the one that looks to be in the best condition for the least amount of money. If you find a deal ($60-$80) on a PJ or TM, jump on it. If you can't find a good deal, then look around for a PWK.
Civic & Best, i like the way you both broke it down for me. Braaptor, the same with the mikuni specs. everyone seems to agree on the pwk being easier to adjust and dial in along with Good gains across the board. i guess ima little gun shy with the pwk because of my last experience with the KTM BASTARD 28mm keihin i just got rid of. maybe it was the emulsion tube that was giving me sooo many probs. i tried a total of 8 mains, 5 pilots and 3 needles ALL ending up with the same result; WAY TOO RICH! (rich enough so after 3 mins of idle, id foul a plug BLACK! even with a 120 main!) i think im on the hunt for a 33mm pwk. the plan is to send the cylinder n head in august, sept. for port work, i just picked up a right bend exhaust system. so im trying to get everything lined up. im going to try the stock 26mm to see what difference just the pipe makes overall. then i think ill start working forward from there. PWK baby, FTW!!!
I run both carbs presently and have done a side by side comparison of both on the same powerplant.Although most say the pj is a biotch to tune I have had no problems.I like the 34 pj carb but the 35 airstryker is a bit better.You will notice very slight gains running a 35pwk over a 34pj.One thing that is the downfall on the pj's is the choke knob is also the idle control. Depends on what you want to spend.A pj is a good carb,a pwk is a bit better.
So, would a 35mm airstriker be the way to go with say an aggressive trail Port, right bend pipe, a possible SCD Racing airbox...hint, and a 3mil crank? Or would a smaller 33mm suit me better for overall performance and ride ability?
This is one of those deals where either would suit you well.
For starters, PWK33's are tough to come by. They didn't come on anything from the factory except KDX220's and aftermarket they're not a very popular item because they're "too small" for a 250class dirtbike.
The PWK35 (A/S or non) is a LOT more common carburetor. You can buy them off of factory bikes or new aftermarket.
If you're going to be putting a right bend pipe, stroker crank, aggressive portjob and head rechambered, you can pull a PWK35 with no trouble. It may have a little less bottom end than the PWK33 would give you but it's a direct tradeoff, the PWK33 would give you less top end compared to the PWK35...
The "happy medium" is one of the 34mm carbs which will also work quite well (truth be told, you may not ever know a difference no matter which of those you would run but the general wisdom is, the larger carb equals better top end, less bottom end).
Like I said earlier, it would come down to whatever I could find a deal on as to which carburetor I would run.....
If you find a deal on a PWK33-35/36, or a PJ34, or a TM34/36.... all of them will work quite well.
For starters, PWK33's are tough to come by. They didn't come on anything from the factory except KDX220's and aftermarket they're not a very popular item because they're "too small" for a 250class dirtbike.
The PWK35 (A/S or non) is a LOT more common carburetor. You can buy them off of factory bikes or new aftermarket.
If you're going to be putting a right bend pipe, stroker crank, aggressive portjob and head rechambered, you can pull a PWK35 with no trouble. It may have a little less bottom end than the PWK33 would give you but it's a direct tradeoff, the PWK33 would give you less top end compared to the PWK35...
The "happy medium" is one of the 34mm carbs which will also work quite well (truth be told, you may not ever know a difference no matter which of those you would run but the general wisdom is, the larger carb equals better top end, less bottom end).
Like I said earlier, it would come down to whatever I could find a deal on as to which carburetor I would run.....
If you find a deal on a PWK33-35/36, or a PJ34, or a TM34/36.... all of them will work quite well.
Surely not if it's like today 1pm 95 degrees 80% humidity! i don't think the blasty would breathe at all!
Lol, I'm sitting in the shade, enjoying my day off. 93 with no real humidity, waiting for the GAY ups guy to bring my exhaust so I CAN go for a ride!
Just make sure there are no lip marks or brown stains on that pipe before you sign for it!
Bwaaahahahahaha, i just cracked myself up!
Not to thread jack, but I scored a like new PJ34 for my Blaster. It has 150 main, 48 pilot, needle on 3 notch. I ride between 35-50ft elevation level. My Blaster has Cfm air box with Unifilter, 240bbk, VF3's, FMF pip and silencer. What might be good Jetting to start off with?
I'd start with a 165main, 52 pilot and start the whole jetting process. I think with your mods that's a good Place to start. Check this thread and see what others are running with similar mods...
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/what-jets-you-using-28981/
