Just a new nitro idea
- Thread starter speed69phreak
- Start date
yeah, if you are wanting to add power in short bursts nitrous oxide, not nitromethane would be a good choice. the only problem with nitrous on a 2 stroke is that the oil in the gas lowers the knock resistance of the gasoline, and oil likes to light up like a blowtorch and eat pistons when coupled with n2o
very surprised that a LOT of good info is filing thru now .
And as far as the guy on the other forum ... well , lets just say that looks are one thing ... performance and setup ( proper ) is another .
And SLICKERTHANYOU nailed it on the head , when it comes to the fellow on the other forum with that N20 setup ...
now , if you figured it out ... no .. just because it kinda looks like a sleeper , does not mean it is . Just like that fellow with the N20 on the quad - but in reverse . Just because he has the bucks to do it .. does NOT mean it is done right . lets see if anyone can tell the one BIG thing for starts, that is NOT done properly with his setup ?
( oh , and BTW - my Monte is listed in HOT ROD online and runs mid 10s with a 150 wetshot on a 1970 blueprinted stroker - that car used to be our "family" car
)
So ... who can tell me whats wrong with that guys setup from what you can see in the pics ? ( assuming that that is how he left it )
( I'd also show you my '98 dime , but , she's kinda tore apart right now waiting on the engine to be popped in )
And in answering what motoman9911 asked -
that all depends on what per cent nitro to lube you are using . If you know anything about diesel engines , then think of a nitro engine as to being a diesel engine , but on intensified steroids ( just running nitro instead of diesel - nitro makes 'em faster , diesel makes 'em run stronger )
And if any of you are confused ... nitro and N20 are NOT the same . N20 ( aka NOS ) requires a very LIMITED amount to use due to it be an oxidizer , whereas Nitro is best used running LEAN ( which is why top fuelers get that "cool" blue flames popping out their exhaust - from running lean)
N20 is an oxidizer , whereas nitro kinda works in reverse and allows a LESS air mix than even gasoline .
but , whichever way you decide to experiment ... just make sure you realize ...
1) you want to make sure you have a GOOD insurance policy on your ass , since thats what will be sitting on that quad - right above the engine WHEN it decides to let loose from not properly set-up.
2) make sure that insurance policy is paid up to date 8-|
3) have LOTS of bucks for when you make even the "slightest" mistake ( minimum it'll cost ya might be an engines top half )
4) make sure you have LOTS of friends around when you test it ,so when you got that sucker toobering along , roasting that fuel , and she decides to blast that head right off that jug and take part of you along with it , that there will be some friends around with their head on straight that hopefully one can run your ass to the hospital ( if theres anything left of it that is )
Good luck and hopefully you change your mind . and go with hard mods - porting , reeds , exhaust timing , intake timing , carbs .... pipes
And as far as the guy on the other forum ... well , lets just say that looks are one thing ... performance and setup ( proper ) is another .
And SLICKERTHANYOU nailed it on the head , when it comes to the fellow on the other forum with that N20 setup ...
Lets see .. in the picture below .. can anyone tell me anything about my car , and if its set up right ? ( just by looking now . )
now , if you figured it out ... no .. just because it kinda looks like a sleeper , does not mean it is . Just like that fellow with the N20 on the quad - but in reverse . Just because he has the bucks to do it .. does NOT mean it is done right . lets see if anyone can tell the one BIG thing for starts, that is NOT done properly with his setup ?
( oh , and BTW - my Monte is listed in HOT ROD online and runs mid 10s with a 150 wetshot on a 1970 blueprinted stroker - that car used to be our "family" car
)So ... who can tell me whats wrong with that guys setup from what you can see in the pics ? ( assuming that that is how he left it )
( I'd also show you my '98 dime , but , she's kinda tore apart right now waiting on the engine to be popped in )
And in answering what motoman9911 asked -
that all depends on what per cent nitro to lube you are using . If you know anything about diesel engines , then think of a nitro engine as to being a diesel engine , but on intensified steroids ( just running nitro instead of diesel - nitro makes 'em faster , diesel makes 'em run stronger )
And if any of you are confused ... nitro and N20 are NOT the same . N20 ( aka NOS ) requires a very LIMITED amount to use due to it be an oxidizer , whereas Nitro is best used running LEAN ( which is why top fuelers get that "cool" blue flames popping out their exhaust - from running lean)
N20 is an oxidizer , whereas nitro kinda works in reverse and allows a LESS air mix than even gasoline .
but , whichever way you decide to experiment ... just make sure you realize ...
1) you want to make sure you have a GOOD insurance policy on your ass , since thats what will be sitting on that quad - right above the engine WHEN it decides to let loose from not properly set-up.
2) make sure that insurance policy is paid up to date 8-|
3) have LOTS of bucks for when you make even the "slightest" mistake ( minimum it'll cost ya might be an engines top half )
4) make sure you have LOTS of friends around when you test it ,so when you got that sucker toobering along , roasting that fuel , and she decides to blast that head right off that jug and take part of you along with it , that there will be some friends around with their head on straight that hopefully one can run your ass to the hospital ( if theres anything left of it that is )
Good luck and hopefully you change your mind .
and go with hard mods - porting , reeds , exhaust timing , intake timing , carbs .... pipes
Yeah I think I'll stay away from adding the nitro for now on , I don't want to push my luck this early in the ridding season !!! I got a fmf fatty pipe on the way and saving up for vido reeds
have a great weekend guys I got to get the mustang ready for opening day at the dragstrip tomarrow ! Wish me luck "hope to get into 11sec" 12.25 last fall
have a great weekend guys I got to get the mustang ready for opening day at the dragstrip tomarrow ! Wish me luck "hope to get into 11sec" 12.25 last fall
Welp I just got done riding with the wife ,I switch back to the 92 octane with k2 oil
and my bike run away on me ! Kill switch didn't work and had to stall it !
I pulled the plug right away and it was soaking wet - I'm thinking bad gas ??
What's your thoughts ?
and my bike run away on me ! Kill switch didn't work and had to stall it !
I pulled the plug right away and it was soaking wet - I'm thinking bad gas ??
What's your thoughts ?
I also heard that if I use a 10% ethanol blend gas that it kills 2strokes ?
I'll never put pump gas in my bike agian !!! I'm gona stick with 110 or 115 octane
I'll never put pump gas in my bike agian !!! I'm gona stick with 110 or 115 octane
unless you have oil that will mix with the ethanol, dont use it. Most oils that are used are just meant for straight gasoline, that is what it will mix in to and suspend itself in until it runs its cycle in the engine. With the ethanol, the oil wont suspend itself in there, leaving potential for a blown engine.
Wow ... wanna share where you got all this info from ? ( Never heard of such a thing and I run ethanol in my Zenoah's and QD's all the time - not to mention in everything that uses gasoline - - never had a single bit of problem either - be doing it for years now . Amsoil Saber at a mix of 3 ounce per gallon and have left mix sit for a week , sometimes more . And when I can't get Saber , I use Dominator )
Been a member over there on RC UNIVERSE referencing 2 stroker gassers in RC boats , RC cars and RC planes , and ever since being a member there , ( since 2001 ) , have never heard reference to this claim before .
Was also a member over on JIMS BOAT DOCK and , again , never heard any claims about this before . ( and FTR - we are talking about little weedwhacker style engines that crank out about 21,000 R's and up to 8 ponies running oil mix of about 50:1 )
Well , your plug was wet due to you stalling the engine whilst it was still getting gas , and as far as the gas being bad , and that being the reason why your motor would not kill ? Never heard of such a thing . Sounds more like your throttle got stuck somehow .
I actually heard that from my dad, and he's been around this stuff for many years. Here's an article that also backs up my claim: Duckworks Magazine
Those weed whacker motors are built tough to last a long time, they dont really care what you put in them. Your motor in your blaster or in a dirt bike will care. Ethanol can also play hell with the seals in your engine and can cause rusting.
IMO, RC universe is a joke. I have been around RC's for a few years myself, mostly in the car aspect but the engine knowledge carries over from type to type (airplanes, heli's, cars, trucks, boats, etc all use a similar nitro engine, the zenoha's and what not are also similar. Note: i said similar, not the same)
I raced a blaster today and got smoked. He said he was running alcohol and the only additions he had were a intake killed head and drag pipe
. stock bore and stock stroke. I am bored .80 over ported and polished toomey pipe boyseen reeds and spacers breeze intake running 93 octane. What do I need to do to beat him. Should I run alcohol or what
. stock bore and stock stroke. I am bored .80 over ported and polished toomey pipe boyseen reeds and spacers breeze intake running 93 octane. What do I need to do to beat him. Should I run alcohol or what
You OBVIOUSLY have NO idea as to what you are talking about ! ( think you need to learn , before you try to burn )
"those weed whacker motors are built tough to last a long time , they dont really care what you put in them. " ? lol - again , you OBVIOUSLY have no idea about them --- which was proven in THAT statement - lol
Some of the most world re-known engine builders/modifiers ( small engines ) are over there ( RC Universe ) . And when you say "IMO" - yep , its just that ... its your opinion and you know what they say about opinions ... they're just like buttholes , everyone has one - just some stink worse than others .
And as far as reading ONE article ? How many articles/rumours / things said - like old wives tales , would you like to see that swear up and down that ( for example ) the Jersey Devil lives , AND they have had a first class experience in being RIGHT next to him ?
Your ONE article , kinda reminds me of the same thing . Unsubstantiated thoughts/beliefs .... nothing more .
Anyway .... again , one article of someones opinion does not mean jack . He does NOT submit ANY evidence or substantiated proof of those claims he's made ( again , think of the Jersey Devil stories and claims - lol ). ( heck , give me 15 minutes and I'll make a website with a post/article explaining how to repair a cracked engine head using only solder and flux And I'll title the webpage - Professional Engine Re-Builders of Utah - lol )
And that info about AMSOIL ... think maybe he should go straight to the horses mouth ( so to speak ) and get the the REAL info about that which DOES have documented proof of its usage and abilities ( Amsoil Saber and any of their 2 stroke oils )
And with the further clarification of his engine ( SPEED69PHREAK ) running HOT , rules out your theory anyway ... ethanol acts like a oxidizer , which COOLS the engine , NOT heats it up . ( straight gasoline will heat up an engine HOTTER than ethanol will )
Anyway , enough about that .
On to the alkie .... to run alkie , you need to change out your gaskets . The alkie will deteriorate/dry out and crack your or o-rings and anything rubber that is meant for gasoline . Along with changing the jetting .
And about the running hot when you could not shut it off .
And speed69phreak , here is an article for you to read about "pre-detonation"
Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition: Streetrod Stuff
You OBVIOUSLY have NO idea as to what you are talking about ! ( think you need to learn , before you try to burn )
"those weed whacker motors are built tough to last a long time , they dont really care what you put in them. " ? lol - again , you OBVIOUSLY have no idea about them --- which was proven in THAT statement - lol
Some of the most world re-known engine builders/modifiers ( small engines ) are over there ( RC Universe ) . And when you say "IMO" - yep , its just that ... its your opinion and you know what they say about opinions ... they're just like buttholes , everyone has one - just some stink worse than others .
And as far as reading ONE article ? How many articles/rumours / things said - like old wives tales , would you like to see that swear up and down that ( for example ) the Jersey Devil lives , AND they have had a first class experience in being RIGHT next to him ?
Your ONE article , kinda reminds me of the same thing . Unsubstantiated thoughts/beliefs .... nothing more .
Anyway .... again , one article of someones opinion does not mean jack . He does NOT submit ANY evidence or substantiated proof of those claims he's made ( again , think of the Jersey Devil stories and claims - lol ). ( heck , give me 15 minutes and I'll make a website with a post/article explaining how to repair a cracked engine head using only solder and flux And I'll title the webpage - Professional Engine Re-Builders of Utah - lol )
And that info about AMSOIL ... think maybe he should go straight to the horses mouth ( so to speak ) and get the the REAL info about that which DOES have documented proof of its usage and abilities ( Amsoil Saber and any of their 2 stroke oils )
And with the further clarification of his engine ( SPEED69PHREAK ) running HOT , rules out your theory anyway ... ethanol acts like a oxidizer , which COOLS the engine , NOT heats it up . ( straight gasoline will heat up an engine HOTTER than ethanol will )
Anyway , enough about that .
On to the alkie .... to run alkie , you need to change out your gaskets . The alkie will deteriorate/dry out and crack your or o-rings and anything rubber that is meant for gasoline . Along with changing the jetting .
And about the running hot when you could not shut it off .
And speed69phreak , here is an article for you to read about "pre-detonation"
Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition: Streetrod Stuff
lets see you post any proof of what you are saying. I have not seen ONE thing from you that proves me wrong. Personal attacks are pointless, nothing gets done, and no information is gathered from it.
Weed whacker motors: they are built to last for years without issues, we have one that is older than i am and still works just fine. When i said anything, i meant that the E10 wont do much to disrupt the lubrication in those engines and will take it in stride, but it can cause seals failing and rusting since the ethanol is hydroscopic.
As for the article i posted, it just restates what i've been telling you in a more scientific manner. The part i was getting at is the oil not distributing itself in the ethanol (a type of alcohol, Ethanol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). You also stated another point that i made that the seals will not like it. Not all oils are the same, some will mix in with the ethanol, but not all. I didnt look up just one article, i looked up several and all told the same tale (even some things on forums). I just posted one article to get my point across.
As for RC universe, there may be some engine builders there, but it is also cluttered with tons of 12 year old know-it-alls that know nothing.
Just because ethanol is an oxidizer, it doesnt mean that it cools the engine. It means that it can cause corrosion or rust (Oxidizing agent - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia).
I did just look over at Amsoil's site, and NONE had listed that they were compatible with alcohol, including the Saber (Saber is used for very light amount of oils, ratio's such as 100:1 to 50:1). Klotz Benol however is listed to be compatible with alcohol. I also found an oil from red line that is alcohol compatible.
In the Ethanol article that i posted, you will note that Alcohol (or ethanol/methanol) is a SOLVENT. Since it is a SOLVENT it will wash away the oil film on your bearings/cylinder walls which will cause a seizure or failure.
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Yeah Im just not shure . The marthon gas station just got sold this winter
and what I thought was 92 octane probaly wasn't
I'll just stick with 110 oc and wolnt have to guess anymore
really good article on the low esters !! That's what I been told to use
the bike shops a selling a additive for 10% ethanal blend is how I found out about ethanal being bad for seals ect. Thanks for your help !!!
and what I thought was 92 octane probaly wasn't
I'll just stick with 110 oc and wolnt have to guess anymore
really good article on the low esters !! That's what I been told to use
the bike shops a selling a additive for 10% ethanal blend is how I found out about ethanal being bad for seals ect. Thanks for your help !!!
This is false.
Nitro mixes with 2 stroke oil.
It also mixes in with gas but doesn't stay mixed very long.
I run meth in my bike and nitro in my weedwacker motors so let me clear up a few things here.
Meth & nitro will not eat your crank seals but will eat gas fuel lines, get silicone fuel lines.
Nitro ran in large quantities or in constant contact will eat your fuel petcot valve as well as the viton seal in your carb inlet needle.
Nitro is almost a mono propellant which means it will burn without any air added to it.
This and and not being tuned at all for it is why that motor could not be stopped.
To even try to mess with nitro in a larger size 2 stroke you need a fuel pump,
and an ignition strong enough not to be put out by a flow many times that of gas.
I think I calculated my 27cc Zen motor was burning 6 times the amount of fuel as gas with only a 30% mix of nitro.
Meth & nitro will not eat your crank seals but will eat gas fuel lines, get silicone fuel lines.
Nitro ran in large quantities or in constant contact will eat your fuel petcot valve as well as the viton seal in your carb inlet needle.
Nitro is almost a mono propellant which means it will burn without any air added to it.
This and and not being tuned at all for it is why that motor could not be stopped.
To even try to mess with nitro in a larger size 2 stroke you need a fuel pump,
and an ignition strong enough not to be put out by a flow many times that of gas.
I think I calculated my 27cc Zen motor was burning 6 times the amount of fuel as gas with only a 30% mix of nitro.
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