Jetting

[Tavmonsta58]

Hey all, I know you can't just tell me where I need to be jetted and have it perfect but I just need a base line of like two or three sizes to get and go by. I ordered boyeson 630 power reeds for my stock cage, & would like to pull the airbox lid as well, also thinking about a uni filter. I'm about 150 ft above sea level if that, going into winter so daily temps are average about 30F-40F. Straight stock as far as I know except for the oil Injection blockoff & a new fuel petcock due to wear on the stock one if that changes anything, I mix at 40-1 with amsoil dominator. What would you suggest I try for a main jet? I have a stock carb with stock 230 main, was thinking I should get a 240, 250 & 260, -1 for the reeds and +2 for the lid?? Maybe -2 for the reeds?? Also thinking of getting the foam uni filter, +1 or 2? Also +1 or 2 for the temp drop?, or more? As I said I have a stock cage, I will be plug chopping as well. Let me know what you think Thanks

 

[Larry's Shee]

I would say 250 260 270, start fat and work your way down. Even though 270 will be fat, you'll have it if you do more mods.

 

[Tavmonsta58]

Yeah that makes sense to start out richer & work my way toward lean, thanks.. how much does temperature affect jetting? Like how many sizes would I have to change for a 50 degree difference (Avg. 80 summer 30 winter?) Also what kind of gasket glue do you use, do you use one type on all gaskets? Been doing some heavy maintenance on the blasty lately so I don't have to worry in the long run, just trying to learn all I can about em..

 

[Larry's Shee]

search "Mikuni Pocket Calculator" ( Google) . If your eyes are better than mine, looking at an image you should be able to see how much to add for temps . I used to know off the top of my head.

Running slightly rich is the safest way to be. You might leave a horse or two in the barn, but at least you won't be walking back.

Also, the higher the state of " tune" the less forgiving it is on jetting.

 

[Tavmonsta58]

Thanks for the help! Do you know if I can run my wheeler without a reed spacer? Seem to have lost it while going through everything

 

[Larry's Shee]

You talking about an aluminum aftermarket spacer ? If so, yes .
FYI, using a gasket on both sides of the Reed cage helps sealing especially if it is warped from over tightening.
Highly recommend a leak down test after.

 

[Tavmonsta58]

Alright didn't know if they were stock or not, bought the blaster a year back. & just redid the gasket on the inner side of the reed cage, got another gasket for the outside as well. Do you know if the base gasket & the clutch gasket need glue?

 

[Larry's Shee]

They don't use "glue" at the factory. However, if the surface is beat up it won't hurt. Very sparingly on the base gasket.
Alot of banshee owners that service the clutch often actually coat it with grease so it doesn't stick. I use Threebond on engine side so it doesn't come off, and non hardening Permatex #2 on the cover side.

 

[Tavmonsta58]

Yeah that makes sense, I have some permatex black, anything bad about that? Only thing they had at the hardware store. says "oil resistant" on box, temps up to 500F. Used it on the intake gasket, should I get threebond for the base gasket? Or do you think what I have now would work? I gotta pick up some non hardening as well. Trying to rebuild the whole bike the right way, had a bogging problem and redid everything from the tank down to the top end,(petcock, carb rebuild, New float, intake boot and gaskets, reeds) just got top end kit, gonna check mine out & see if it's ready before it toasts the cylinder.
Electrical seems awesome, bright blue spark. Then onto the bottom end once I got the wonga...

Also could a bent frame cause any problems with the motor? Mounts are fine, owner before me 12oclocked the grab bar & didn't tell me.. Swingarm is fine. Redid all bearings/axle carrier/axle last spring due to a busted up carrier. Heard it can't be welded?