Jetting for toomey pipe

[BrandonH]

i scored a running 01 blaster last week for my wife's Valentine's Day gift, float height was out of whack and owner couldn't figure it out, got it set up now. It has a Toomey pipe and silencer, I looked online and the kit for the pipe includes a 310 jet, which is what's in it, but it's running way too rich. You couldn't even ride it with the floats adjusted right on a 310 jet on an open airbox and no filter. Even with a 270 jet in it it's somewhat boggy until fully warmed after putting on it for 5 minutes without a filter on it, almost like I could go to a 260 but not sure until I do a plug chop on it.

Is that normal for the pipe kit to include a 310 jet but the bike likes one way smaller like a 260/270? Also put new reeds in it. I have the floats right at 21mm, and carb cleaned spotless.

 

[Blaaster]

A #310 is what Toomey recommends with holes drilled in the air box lid.

Is there a possibility that the float may be sticking causing a flooding issue.

 

[BrandonH]

I'll pull it out and check, but Nothing was hanging up when I took it apart. It's has the airbox holes, an I tried no filter to eliminate that. So basically something is wrong to have the jetting that I have in it now right and run good. Cause the 310 wouldn't rev past half throttle

 

[Blaaster]

The main jet does not come into play until 3/4 throttle, therefore the problem is not the main jet.

I suspect flooding or a needle circuit problem.

 

[BrandonH]

Hmm your right, didn't think about that lol.

What needle setting should this be at too? I'll check that too when I tear it apart.

Never mind I found the manual for the pipe online.

 

[Awk08]

elevation and current temps you're trying to tune in ?

needle in the middle clip position for that pipe

that manual cannot tell you the things we can

 

[BrandonH]

Elevation maybe 100ft above sea level. Central FL. 70*F

Motor unk but from what I can tell, stock. Plan on doing the top end in it soon just to be safe. Im sure the compression is on the low side but will still start 1-3 kicks cold, 1 kick when warm.

Using whatever mix he had in it now, but I'm using 32:1 Castor927 once I drane the tank. Oil injection delete and TORS delete.

 

[Blaaster]

Great choice on the Castor927, but be careful, it does not readily mix with many of the other oils on the market.

Try to find out what oil is presently in there.

Generally switching to Castor oil blends, the engine should flushed and purged to remove all traces of the old oil.

Most of the Full synthetic oil out there will allow a marriage with Castor, but I always play it safe when converting over, by flushing out the old oil.

Also beware Castor blends do not relish low temperatures.

 

[jus_me]

Is your exhaust clear? Could be a real blocked up silencer and or exhaust. Remember what goes in must come out.

 

[Awk08]

Elevation maybe 100ft above sea level. Central FL. 70*F

you should be fine with toomey's suggested 310 or +1-2 bigger for almost sea level elevation and those temps
needle in the middle.

reed petals been checked ?

 

[speedyslyder]

airscrew setting?

 

[BrandonH]

I ran Castor927 in all my dirt bikes, Gopeds, and even weed trimmers lol. Good stuff. The oil in it smells castor based, but how do I go about flushing the crankcase?

The reeds are brand new just put them in. Exhaust isnt plugged.

Air screw 1.5 turns out

Riding it around the yard it runs great but I just want to get it right. It's pulling the wheels up in second too easy with the smaller hole shots in the back. starting to think I'm going to keep this for myself while I finish my blaster and get her something else.. Haha

 

[speedyslyder]

i had that problem before/everytime i would take carb apart clean it .It went away for a few.
then back to the same thing.I suspected the float needle/or leaky crank seal