ever had a cutoff

found a problem with it. if the slide was pushed back, towards the airbox, not towards the engine. forward and backward, i dont know if they all do this or what, but it bobbed. it would raise my rpms. i made a video. https://vimeo.com/78585319

and so. i put my dellorto back on there. it didnt do this. dont really seem to cut out. ill keep going. had somethign to add. oh yea i never would of found my problem on a fuel mixture screw carburetor what you guys where talking about. wouldnt of camme up with a fuel mixture screw carb. i think thats what i was going to say.

like, you control the air, i have none. no control and when the carbs rich its just rich. if you have a lean pilot you can cut off your air mix completely. if i have too much air... pooey on you.

What was wrong with the slide ?
 
With the top of the carb open and no air filter you are most definatly sucking a crap load of air.

Put the carb cap and cable back on and fit the air filter and the mixture may just richen up enough for you to be able to set the idle.
 
i went out side and pulled the throtle cable, as it idled. pulled on it. and the carb ilded down
it was pullingt the slide forward and rpms lowered like teh stop screw was off.

the throttle stop screw. being off. it was idling. away. pretty high. sort of. i pulled the throttle cable and it dropped. i pusehd the slide and it was moving, in the chamber. i asked the people i bought it off of if all of them done that. they said send it back. ..
 
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ive still got the carb hanging, coming down. full speed, full throttle, held it wide open, for like a mile. afer driving a mile to warm it up. a little. temp didnt go over 300.

oh the video earlier, some people might of got it mixed up, the youtube vid, isnt mine. the vimeo one's mine. earlier oko carb was pushing back, the slide was, and there was some movement, i could push it forward, 2-3mm. maybe. and the rotating cap. probably leaked around it. and sucked air there. if i pushed the slide forward, and it was touching the slide chamber on the engine side, it was airtight. i was showing in that video, it was.

i send the carb back, asked them if all of them did, that.


well anyhow. so, got the pilot pretty well adjusted, i can get my bike to roll, just a little more throttle and its weird. and i held wot fora mile not over 300F stayed right at 298F. for like 15 seconds after about 3/4 a mile.

but then i dropped my screwdriver so i was holding, like half throttle.

.. then i noticed my heat guage had a max of 333. so i figure it happened when i was at like hafl throttle. 1/4 throttle whatever.

i got a needle problem. think ive about got it fixed. anyway. think i got my main jet about figured, that's the right main, id guess. close. and pilots, it idles, starts up, but i didnt restart it, after i got it going. its tstarting.

it just cuts out fully, alright. so i was rnning a 37 pilot. it was rich. i tried 38 first. i heard i need at least 1 1/4 turns out to not be too less amount of fuel. itd run vacuum riched, too small and would flood under oh 1.25 turns out. and if it does, its gonna be sensitive.

38 i was running 1 or 1.25 turns out. and it just was flooding like. but nothing much. and my main was whatever the same it is now. and the needle, was what i had. a sort of lean on the chart setting. low, and top. just a hair. by their charts. other side. full throttle, itd catch, and go. i had cutting out, no power, at lower throttle positions. ..

thinking i was close, on the taper, or 3/4 throttle, cause a pull and go, usually was good?..

ok, i go to 37 pilot. bought it cause it was all close in this. 1.25 turns out is more reponsive. the throttle is, down low. not as smokey. but 1.25 is it. and its sensitive. full throttle and it cuts, revs around a bit, then goes. bzzzt. wanna go? open throttle wide open.

figuring needles close. i jump from 1/4 throttle postition i change needles, and keep everything, but one step higher 1/4.

thought that was what was jumping. well, i dont really know.

so, im just gonna go pull the needle out a click tomorrow and see what it does.
 
You seem to be chasing your butt all over the place, around and around until you eventually will disappear up your own orifice.

Leak test, set the float level, plug chop and get back with all the results and we will have something concrete to work with.

No one can give any advice from all the guff you have been talking.
 
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i done that. already. cant you read?

float level. its set. its fine. plug chops?

first off. why? why. i have a cht guage, i won't seize. of course you guys wont answer. so ill wait for someone smarter. instead of jsut saskign questions. oh get mad. come back call my topic a waste of everyones time. seems to me y9u guys..

this is sort of me posting this and if you find information that is ehh. not discernable. you can go ahead and ask ME questiosn. but dont call my practices into question. this is PISSIGN ME OFF.
LEAK TEST HAS BEEN DONE. i TOLD YOU DURING THE OKO CARB. i leak tested the bike from one end to the other and hAVE 0 leaks. and you asked \me about my bike and the slide and leak test. todl you I LEAK TESTED IT. then i found the carb was leaking. then i changed th carb. now why would i leak?
for f**ck sakes. read.
 
this is my sort of read about tuning this. ive had these problems so many times over and over and no good advice. if somethign i put is not discernable thats ok to ask me questions..

quit SAYING PLUG CHOP OVER AND OVER OH OPLease let me cross thread.

cant i just wait until eveyrthings good? everything seems tuned? I HAVE A CYLINDER HEAD TEMPERATURE GUAGE
 
yur telling me to do a main jet plug chop, while teling me, we got to start somewhere..

can someone translate?
 
i gave you my information. i got it ilding. i got it sitting. i got it rolling. i give a bit more throttle i get a no power.

pretty sure thats not hwat you call guff. since your wanting me to kcik it staright down, and pull myspark plug out to give you a reading. pretty sure getting there is more important..

explain WHY TO PULLTHE SPARK PLUG. iHAVE A CHT.
 
You seem to be chasing your butt all over the place, around and around until you eventually will disappear up your own orifice.

Leak test, set the float level, plug chop and get back with all the results and we will have something concrete to work with.

No one can give any advice from all the guff you have been talking.

Bbbbhhhhaaahhhaaahhaaahhhaa. I have to give rep for that. Just to funny. I:I
 
Bbbbhhhhaaahhhaaahhaaahhhaa. I have to give rep for that. Just to funny. I:I

huhuh huh huhhuh. stupid.

if a 30 second wide open held steady temperature reading of 298 isnt good enough for you.

YOU DIDNT LISTEN WHEN I BEGAN. forget it. i couldnt start to tune. half of you think yur funny. then, i start to tune and your calling everything im doign guff.

thats what your headsare full of GUFF.

i quit. whatever. thanks for tip i could of got out of a book. too bad im too stupid to pay more attention to people. but im not listenning this time

im not puling the head. the only reason to do a chop is so i dont blow up my motor, rigth?

the heat and the oil gas mix are the only reasons for that, and those are tooken care of.

ok so im not insto crossthreading my head. what are you a head salesman? i dont need you helping. see theyd be more interested in me breaking anything.

lets see here. 0 good reasons to attempt a crossthreading.

yea im not doing it.

not until things are more running.
 
is it normal? for teh idle to run with my stop completely closed. at not a sooo, low of an idle either? i sprayed carb cleaner around my boot. and it didnt raise the rpoms any. nothing black is coming around. pretty rich, alright so i


Is you slide in backwards ?

hey blaaster guy read about this? yea we covered this already. oh hoho. funny joke. guff. ill just let that stew for a bit.

i need to know what reason a plug chop should be done.

i think i moved past that, then went on forward. now your telling me to start some where some guy thinks this is a joke. i fucign quit. yoru all assholes. pretend to be cool. then you start trouble with anyone coming in.
 
Not starting trouble. You come here with a half ass explanation then get mad because we are having a hard time understanding what your saying. We want to help you get your Blaster going good but your making it hard. Reading most of your posts is like being on an acid trip. There good advice in this tread. Put it to use.
 
wheres the rest of your buddies to call wah cry gripe about me still having a topic continuing. only problem i see is im getting help and you started crap to start with. im not understandable? well, seems i got help. then of course blaaster didnt understand and you finding funny in that, is of course BS. cause your an ahole and a trouble maker.

the only problem you people not wanting me having a topic is that ive gotten help. even after being helped you've griped.

this guy is proven not to be listennign to me. he skipped it over or whatever. cause i was helped he cant start back at page 1. he was just getting me getting on his butt. cuase i do that.

BUT YOU ARE A TROUBLE MAKER> help if you are capable. pretty sure your just a mouth though
 
and i dont want to hear it.
anyway, i think ill try a jump on my needle.

i was going step by step through this. now. i dont understand why you guys dont get it. but hey you from the start leave. its the language your having trouble with. and im NOT A DICTIONARY
 
Not starting trouble. You come here with a half ass explanation then get mad because we are having a hard time understanding what your saying. We want to help you get your Blaster going good but your making it hard. Reading most of your posts is like being on an acid trip. There good advice in this tread. Put it to use.

half ass understand. yor a trouble maker. them words aint making no sense son. everybody can read.

ill do you a bet. somenoen make sense of what he said ill gladly leave. if not. then well. id ban you. you want to help. you want to insult everythign. if tips are included, its not you is it.

...... get