dirtydeezl

dirtydeezl

dirtydeezl

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Jun 23, 2015
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Greetings community, dirtydeezl here. I'm a 42 year old truck driver from Somers, CT. Just got a hold of a 1988 Blaster Project for the best price ever, free. This is my first ATV, and seeing as it's a project I figured I'd benefit greatly from the collective wealth of knowledge and experience assembled in a community of people with similar interests and machines. I look forward to browsing the existing threads for answers to my questions first and if I'm stumped, I'll create a thread. I'll try my best to be a productive member. Thanks for having me along.
 

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Welcome!! There are tons of extremely useful threads here, you will have a good time reading through them for sure! Do you know what your going to do with it? Top end rebuild? Full motor rebuild or even a bare frame restoration are all good options. But the best thing you can do for these blasters are get the correct tools! There are multiple tools that can make your build go so much smoother than trying to get it done rigging it up.
tusk flywheel cluth tool
case splitter
impact screw driver
flywheel remover
yamabond
LEAKTESTER - Member AWK08 sells them here. Prolly one of THE MOST IMPORTANT tools you can have in your toolbox. This is a MUST.

If your doing some motor work, do yourself a favor and send what you need done to Ken OConnor racing. He is, in my own words, the blaster god lol. He knows these motor prolly better than anyone and will be money well spent.

Some of the best mods you can do for a blaster for performance are, new pipe, head mod, vforce4 reeds. Right bend pipes are preferred but either really pricey, or hard to find. Head mod is done by Ken, think it like $60, and well worth it. the vforce go for under $140 so not too bad. Mods to make it ride better are new brakes all the way around. yours have drums in the front and absolute crap in the back. Switching to hydros all the way around are in my opinion, a must.

If you have any questions, ask away! Everyone on here is ready and willing to help out someone new to the blaster family.
 
Thanks all! The clutch side case cover has been removed and I'm going to need the gear shift shaft assembly as it was broken and long gone, going to need all new clutch springs and plates, clutch lever, brakes all the way around. But since I've joined this morning I've already deleted the oil pump and TORS. Can't sit still...
After a quick look around I think I would like to bore it up to a 68mm slug and upgrade to a +3mm crank (218cc ish?) For starters.
 
whats the current bore do you know? you gain barley any performance by going from 66 (stock) to 68. It would be best, in my opinion, if it is around 66-67 to just bore it up to the next size and not go all the way up to 68 right away. These cylinders have alot of bores in them and its best not to waste any of them right off the bat. I am assuming you have found the bore to cc thread and thats where you go your number from. Just on that thread alone you can see how many times you can bore a stock cylinder.
 
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This thing is BONE stock. It was my cousins and he only did what he needed to keep it running.
I don't mind punching out to .80 over, if it wears out I will eventually buy a big bore kit. I don't have tons of free time to countless hours of riding in, I spend the entire week in the truck. So it will last awhile. I just need something that will get hackles up when I DO ride. Lol
 
Welcome!

Best advise I can give you is have the bore cleaned up to the next oversize with a matching piston. Instead of Wasting bores, have it ported and Get the head modded. Its money well spent that will really wake it up.

There are a few of us that run stock bore / stroke, that are ported heavily, and we have great results. What pipe you use too will have a large effect where you feel the power gains as well.
 
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Good pipe, port/polish, and a head mod will wake these little quads right up. You will be surprised.

I would just go next size up that is needs for the bore. you wont feel any difference from a 66mm to a 68mm.. This way when you want the 240 you can sell a cyl with lots of life left in it but a bored out 68mm has no life left is wont get you any $ compared to one with allot of life.
 
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That sounds reasonable, I'll start looking into those areas and price checking. Any grievances with the +3mm stroke? I'd kind of like to get closer to square if possible.
If there are any North Easters around, I'd like to find some reputable shops closer to CT. If possible, I try to support local shops, it's the neighborly thing to do. ;)
 
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dirtydeezl said:
That sounds reasonable, I'll start looking into those areas and price checking. Any grievances with the +3mm stroke? I'd kind of like to get closer to square if possible.
If there are any North Easters around, I'd like to find some reputable shops closer to CT. If possible, I try to support local shops, it's the neighborly thing to do. ;)
Click to expand...

The Blaster god is in CT lol. Ken OConnor racing is in Danielson CT
 
Welcome from CT as well, ken built my quad you can't go wrong with him. What company do you drive for ? I manage a security company that deals with easily 60 companies. Reg box , rail and ocean container.
 
pudvah said:
Welcome from CT as well, ken built my quad you can't go wrong with him. What company do you drive for ? I manage a security company that deals with easily 60 companies. Reg box , rail and ocean container.
Click to expand...
I drive for Schneider National, the Orange trucks.
Nice to know there's folks nearby!
 
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