crank bearing? bad or useable

also it rolls smooth but seems to rubber band like i hit a place towards bottom of the rotation and then it seems to propell its self .. a little idk im sure its hard to tell in video but i try to find the spot and i move it a little and you can see it move by itself



 
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IMO, if you have to ask a question if something is good or not, and you're already as far as you are......
replace them
 
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Yes good thought but I don't have a case splitter tool and I'm afraid if I open it up it willbdissapoint me I mean ever since I've joined and have had this blaster I already have a cracked cylinder wore out piston (way out of clearance) grooved clutch basket.. Rings with a huge gap.. Bad wrist pin bearing I already gotta throw 325 roughly for a new top end cylinder piston bearings seals .. Clutch ball pushrod clutch cover gasket I mean I might as well go +3 stroker and do an a out build which I have no money for .. and it seems the deeper I dig the worst I find ... And I can't afford a full rebuild like that I might as well put it in bags and put it in my basement till whenever
 
its a video, i listened to it and couldnt hear much.

sounded a little off, but idk. I would have to feel them to know, just like probably anyone here
 
Could it just be crank bearings at a minimum the rod bearings as you can see very little side to side and no up and down play so how bad would the 2 crank bearings be ... I've watches countless bids on it and bearings are cheap but the I need the crank puller tool and new lock washers and yama bond.. All the little stuff will add up to more than I can allot to spend soo .... I'm screwed I have a big ass 450$ paper weight at this point
 
Herpderplol said:
its a video, i listened to it and couldnt hear much.

sounded a little off, but idk. I would have to feel them to know, just like probably anyone here
Click to expand...
That's understandable .. I can tell you no flywheel play rod bearings check out clutch is fine except some grooves seals check out .. I don't race but I wonder if it can hold for a few months till I get money for the bottom its not grinding or nothing its just weird feeling and I have nothing to base it off cause this is the first I've owned
 
2smokin said:
Could it just be crank bearings at a minimum the rod bearings as you can see very little side to side and no up and down play so how bad would the 2 crank bearings be ... I've watches countless bids on it and bearings are cheap but the I need the crank puller tool and new lock washers and yama bond.. All the little stuff will add up to more than I can allot to spend soo .... I'm screwed I have a big ass 450$ paper weight at this point
Click to expand...

you do not need a crank puller (link below), you'll need a 2-3 jaw puller to split the cases, they can be had cheap, or even free rental w/ a refundable deposit at autozone/advance auto

KOR engine assembly - no crank puller needed
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
 
2smokin said:
very true ..thanks guys.. ill be irritating the misses but it will be worth it in the end .. shell get over it
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The deeper I went the worse it got. I didn't want to rebuild but had to. Take you time and do if right. KOR videos rock! And the fun thing is you get to learn a lot. I would have no problem rebuilding my motor again.
 
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Damned if you do, damned if you don't. What you could do is remove the gears from the crank and turn just the crank. That way you won't have anything else rotating at the same time. Any "notchiness" rough spots, binding, tightness would be bad.

I feel for you brother. I'm sort of in the same boat. Either a bad balancer brg took out the gear, or the gear took the brg. All this broke the case. Rod has max clearance at rod and max movement at small end, so I need a crank. A 3mil is $60 more than SS. New crank brgs & seals, new balancer brgs (for peace of mind) $125 for a complete bottom end with smoked crank. Ballzz deep because of a $20 brg and $70 gear.

But, the satifaction of only doing it once and riding for many hours, priceless
 
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Fast6hand said:
The deeper I went the worse it got. I didn't want to rebuild but had to. Take you time and do if right. KOR videos rock! And the fun thing is you get to learn a lot. I would have no problem rebuilding my motor again.
Click to expand...


you got that right he makes it look so simple .. i guess like it should be
 
Larry's Shee said:
Damned if you do, damned if you don't. What you could do is remove the gears from the crank and turn just the crank. That way you won't have anything else rotating at the same time. Any "notchiness" rough spots, binding, tightness would be bad.

I feel for you brother. I'm sort of in the same boat. Either a bad balancer brg took out the gear, or the gear took the brg. All this broke the case. Rod has max clearance at rod and max movement at small end, so I need a crank. A 3mil is $60 more than SS. New crank brgs & seals, new balancer brgs (for peace of mind) $125 for a complete bottom end with smoked crank. Ballzz deep because of a $20 brg and $70 gear.

But, the satifaction of only doing it once and riding for many hours, priceless
Click to expand...

yes thats how i feel i go back to work tomorrow on a tugbouat making damn good money so it looks like i got a full rebuild on my hands.. if im gonn do it its gonna be doe right

thats good describing words its like a binding kind feel in 2 spots the same spots in rotation not different happens at the same place every time

and i see what you saying it could be a gear {out of whack} which i would feel thru the crank and not be the bearings .. hmmm thats helpful but at the same time not good lol

also even being in neutral there is gears spinning with the crank .. ex balancer, etc

do you mean disconnect gears from the clutch side without splitting the case
 
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