case repair

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I am 68 and the old body aint what it used to be, I even have trouble keeping up with my 14 yr old son on the quad, he rides the Blaster an I ride a Suzi with a IT400 transplant.
 
I've had decent luck putting the stock together as long as there is something left to weld back together.

Case halves on certain four wheelers are line bored, the blaster is not one of them (suzuki LT250's are so beware!). I've had luck swapping out case halves if damage is too severe to repair.

Every dirtbike and atv engine one built has been line bored so I just made the assumption that the yfs is as well. Good to know though:)
 
I have used non-matching cases on 3 different bikes in my travels with no issues what so ever.
A 79' YZ400, 74' MX175, and my most current ride, my Banshee.
 
Up for your consideration today...

This case had some pretty gnarly chain rash. The pics were taken pre-finishing, just a tig torch and a filler rod at this point:

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The finished product:

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Almost like it never even happened!
 
RoostinShee's DT200 case all finished with the die grinder. I have decided that he's gonna need to do the sandpaper and polish. I'm the welder/grinder, once it's smooth enough for use, I'm done. :p

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Also, for anyone who is attempting this, a SCD racing secret.

I think I have discovered a little secret. My talking about not being "classically trained" so I'll try EVERYTHING. I really kinda did today and was VERY pleased with the results... I bought, some time ago, a product called "aerobraze" which is supposed to be a true brazing rod for brazing aluminum. It's sold with a powdered flux for use with an oxy-fuel torch and supposedly melts approximately 50 degrees F cooler than commercially available aluminum. I talked with mmajay about maybe trying them and decided to today.

The difference in AMAZING during the "doping" procedure. Instead of running the welder on "hi" at 70% and about 3/4 pedal I run the welder on "hi" at 40% and about 1/2 pedal. Instead of fighting to get the cast and filler rod to melt together by throwing the rod at it, I actually struggle to get the filler into the weld pool before it melts. The result is a weld pool cool enough not to boil and burn the impurities out BEFORE they can get diluted and "washed" to the cleaning area by the filler rod. I used the "aerobraze" to dope the old metal first and then switched over to regular 4043 filler to build the material up.

I had a good long hard look at this "aerobraze" welding rod. On the end of one rod ever so faintly stamped into it... 4047. This is 1/16" tig welding rod sold as a brazing rod. Further investigation... this is high silicone content aluminum filler. It melts at a lower temperature than the 4043 filler.
 
Secret is safe with me!

I have known the brazing rod used for tacking up the fine edges of a V preparation prior to welding.

That case repair is amazing, just like a well fitting toupee, can't see the join!
 
Thanks for the quality work. Maybe one day we can meet up and tutor me in metallurgy or ride or something. You are 6hrs or less from my current residence, not the posted address as that's my rents house. I:I:D
 
@Roostinshee: I didn't realize until after I had posted them and they "blew up" that the pics of the clutch cover repair were so blurry. They looked great on the camera, I'll get some tomorrow that aren't quite so zoomed in and not blurry.

@Blaaster: Just the way it should be, can't even tell where it's done... :D
 
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I've got a lovely bunch of blaster parts, all of them stacked up on a table. Big ones, small ones, some not sitting all that stable....
 
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Secret is safe with me!

I have known the brazing rod used for tacking up the fine edges of a V preparation prior to welding.

That case repair is amazing, just like a well fitting toupee, can't see the join!

I used it to dilute that crappy cast aluminum and it worked BEAUTIFULLY. Searching for some 4047 welding rod brings back replies like "low porosity welds" and "cast aluminum filler rod" so I'm definitely on the right track. I have about a pound of it right now and if I use it sparingly and only use it for the first layer of repairs, it'll last me a good long while but I think I'm also going to call down to my local welding shop and see if they have it/can get it and how much I'd have to buy. If it's the same price as 4043 and they have it, I'll just use that alloy for case repairs.... it works REALLY well.
 
Looks great Brutha! I tried to repair a crapcase with my spool gun and was a disaster! i did heat the case up before i started but i could not get a decent weld that i could trust! My case repairs if i ever need one will be all yours!
 
Oh man, I can imagine trying it with a spool gun :eek: taking the term "throwing the rod at it" to a whole new level.

The intent of this thread was to show people that you CAN do repairs like this without really specialized equipment (I.e. tig welder) and I still stand by that assessment. For someone without a tig welder a mapp gas torch and some "brazing rod" CAN repair a crack or hole. But you better believe, now that I have an AC tig welder, I'm not reaching for the "brazing rod" anymore....
 
Oh man, I can imagine trying it with a spool gun :eek: taking the term "throwing the rod at it" to a whole new level.

The intent of this thread was to show people that you CAN do repairs like this without really specialized equipment (I.e. tig welder) and I still stand by that assessment. For someone without a tig welder a mapp gas torch and some "brazing rod" CAN repair a crack or hole. But you better believe, now that I have an AC tig welder, I'm not reaching for the "brazing rod" anymore....

brazing rod = not fun8-|
 
brazing rod = not fun8-|

Agreed but it's one of the few things someone without an AC tig welder can do to a broken set of cases (besides look at them of course!)

The brazings rods can work though... for most breaks (obviously large holes are trouble) and versus just standing there looking at the cases (or worse, throwing them away :eek: ) one could try to repair them...
 
If everyone who has a busted blaster case throws them away, eventually they'll all be gone (i.e. LT250R cases) and they'll be a MINT to purchase in ANY kind of shape.

Somebody's gotta keep'em alive! I:I

couldnt agree more, i never throw parts out. you never know when you might need them or could modify for a different purpose.

it is a shame when you find a cool project and you have to trash the project it bc you cant find parts :/
 
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