Can't kick
- Thread starter RoloTheMan
- Start date
My personal opinion is ditch it. If you roll the quad, or powerwash the line off the carb or something like that you have to drain the carb and then make sure its working. People have had the plastic gear break and not know it while they are riding then no oil in the gas. Its just a piece of mind to know that there is the correct amount of oil in the gas and its never going to get starved for oil.
Keep the oil tank comparatively full and you will should have no problems!
The oil injection system is virtually flawless, it is often operator error that they fail!
If you do decide to pre mix, you may have to re jet the carb and plug chop to confirm.
The oil injection system is virtually flawless, it is often operator error that they fail!
If you do decide to pre mix, you may have to re jet the carb and plug chop to confirm.
I ended up getting the crank rebuilt by KOR. Got a Wiseco top end kit. Wiseco main bearings and seals and bottom end gasket. Followed Kens videos to put it all back together. Have not yet to put the motor back on the frame and try to start it up.
Is it possible that because my bike had been on the grab bar a few times while riding that I got air into the system (I always made sure the tank was atleast half full before I went out to ride) and it is why the bottom end got messed up? I will probably end up on the grab bar a few more times and can't afford the same problem again.
It has been a long time since I have seen an oil tank, but just maybe the oil delivery nipple will be still under the oil level when the bike is vertical.
Take a look at the tank and see if the oil will still cover the outlet of the tank when standing on the grab bar.
If the oil stays above the outlet it will be fine to keep the oil injection.
The problem is raised when the bike is flipped upside down and air is drawn into the line.
Take a look at the tank and see if the oil will still cover the outlet of the tank when standing on the grab bar.
If the oil stays above the outlet it will be fine to keep the oil injection.
The problem is raised when the bike is flipped upside down and air is drawn into the line.
ditch that oil injection chit rolo !
too many IF's with it...
IF the oil level...., IF you don't roll it, IF injection oil is available, IF no dirt, IF it doesn't develop an air leak
IF this and IF that.
take away the I and you have F that !
mix 4 ounces of good oil to 1 gallon of gas and the only IF is can you hit the hole on top of the tank when filling it, and know 100% of the time that your engine has enuf oil.
end of IF's
too many IF's with it...
IF the oil level...., IF you don't roll it, IF injection oil is available, IF no dirt, IF it doesn't develop an air leak
IF this and IF that.
take away the I and you have F that !
mix 4 ounces of good oil to 1 gallon of gas and the only IF is can you hit the hole on top of the tank when filling it, and know 100% of the time that your engine has enuf oil.
end of IF's
Okay so I got rid of the oil injection and did a premix of 32:1 (2gallons of gas 8punces of oil).
Sooooooooo
I kicked and it turned on for a sec then turned off. This time I opened the choke all the way kicked and gave it gas to stay on. BUT AS SOON AS I LET GO OF THE THROTLE IT SHUT OFF .
Sooooooooo
I kicked and it turned on for a sec then turned off. This time I opened the choke all the way kicked and gave it gas to stay on. BUT AS SOON AS I LET GO OF THE THROTLE IT SHUT OFF
.
Not sure where the idle screw located on the carb. Is it the gold flathead one next to the gas line??
brick = the tors box on top of the carb, thats where the idle screw is located, remove seat and look up under the fuel tank, big flat head screw on top of tors "brick", turn clockwise to increase idle rpm's
the brass screw beside the fuel line is the airscrew, it has to be adjusted correctly for it to idle and rev clean past 1/4 throttle.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
I guess that you took my advice on re jetting the carby for a change in AFR!
Adding oil to the fuel leans out the gas ratio and can cause a destructive situation.
The size of the main jet should be increased and the idle will have to be reset to compensate for the lack of fuel in the mix.
I trust that you plugged the oil injection nipple on the carb!
You now need to do a plug chop to confirm jetting, intervention breeds intervention.
Adding oil to the fuel leans out the gas ratio and can cause a destructive situation.
The size of the main jet should be increased and the idle will have to be reset to compensate for the lack of fuel in the mix.
I trust that you plugged the oil injection nipple on the carb!
You now need to do a plug chop to confirm jetting, intervention breeds intervention.
Okay so I adjusted the the idle screw and I got it to idle. The only thing is that it only idles with the choke all the way in. If I pull the choke or try and start it with the choke out it dies
Soooooo I did not re Jett the carb. I guess that will be my next step before moving on. And I did plug the carb
Soooooo I did not re Jett the carb. I guess that will be my next step before moving on. And I did plug the carb
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Just noticed this!
If you want to do a lot of WOT to try to keep up with the bigger bikes, then a mix of 32:1 is not going to supply enough lubrication for a Blaster engine, you may need to run a mix with a heavier oil concentration.
Although 32:1 is fine for recreational riding, there is just not enough oil for long periods of WOT.
Awk08 can tell you a story of woe about a young guy trying to keep up with the big 4 pokes.
WOT with a 2 stroke requires a lot more oil in the mix, to provide the engine with sufficient lubrication, otherwise the engine will fail drastically.
If anyone tells you that you cannot run a 2 stroke WOT for long periods, they are feeding you Bull feathers, it is possible with the correct oil ratio and with an oil with great film strength.
Really I thought something was wrong since I used to pull the child for cold starts and the bike would idle high. So I thought it should idle high now instead of shutting off.
IDK why but this put a smile on my face lol.
What would be a good ratio to use when I'm going to be doing a lot of WOT.
I also sometimes go to trails were I don't really go WOT. Would I have to take out the gas the bike has and put a different mix everytime I go to the trails? Or should I just always run the mix with more oil?
Similar threads
