building a nice blaster

sumbdy tell me wht yall think


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I hope you jetted that cr80 carb. I don't know what carb the cr80 has but whatever it is, it will need jetted or you could be bogging or running lean. You will also have to rejet when you put that pipe on
 
I hope you jetted that cr80 carb. I don't know what carb the cr80 has but whatever it is, it will need jetted or you could be bogging or running lean. You will also have to rejet when you put that pipe on
yea i know...its a 28mm carb and i tried dropping down on the jets yesterday but like you said its bogging like hell plus i dnt really like the idea of the twist throttle either so ima go back to the stock carb for now...only prob is i dnt like the stock because of the tors box on it
 
I hope you jetted that cr80 carb. I don't know what carb the cr80 has but whatever it is, it will need jetted or you could be bogging or running lean. You will also have to rejet when you put that pipe on
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I hope you jetted that cr80 carb. I don't know what carb the cr80 has but whatever it is, it will need jetted or you could be bogging or running lean. You will also have to rejet when you put that pipe on
yea its a 28mm carb but just like you said its bogging like hell and i messed with tha jets yesterday but still nothing so ima put tha stock carb back on for now i just dont like that one either because of the tors box
 
Delete the tors, add a idle screw (easy), add a regular carb cap, jet properly, then ride.
yea i know ...fig it wud be easier to jus order a cable jet it and b done..but it looks like im gonna have to get the kit and fix tha stock carb
 
Not only does it clean up your bike, it also take about a pound (exaggerating) off of it too just by ditching the "brick" on top of the carb.
 
well...its official i put tha stockcarb back on and changed my sprockets and tha biotch runs like no other with all tha mods ive done to it...i think its just one other ima do after i put ths pipe on is shave my extra head i got down 24 thou nd then ill b good ...
 
well...its official i put tha stockcarb back on and changed my sprockets and tha biotch runs like no other with all tha mods ive done to it...i think its just one other ima do after i put ths pipe on is shave my extra head i got down 24 thou nd then ill b good ...

Consider getting it modified rather than just milling. Improved combustion chamber will add more ponies , far less likely to have detonation.
 
oh ok...so wht you have in mind as far as doing my head then

1. Find a nice box that your cylinder head fits into nicely, and some cushion!
2. Call Ken and tell him you want to get his head mod
3. Send Ken your cylinder head
4. Receive cylinder head from Ken
5. Stare at the beauty of this man craftsmanship, maybe take it out on a nice date, whatever floats your boat.
5. Install and be amazed lol.

This is mine after getting it back from Ken. Its not only shaved but completely reconfigured. Its worth every penny.
 
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oh ok...so wht you have in mind as far as doing my head then

Compare what your stock head looks like to the pics jbuckster posted. Notice stock is a conical combustion chamber, modified is a hemispherical dome. It was one of many things Yamaha did to DEtune the Blaster. I don't exactly recall the effects but would speculate that it slows the flame front/combustion process , and thus power output.
If you have access to a lathe, joeAK47 has a video on YouTube that shows how to cut your own head.
Maybe someone else will explain it better. I know that Joe and Best have done a bit of testing.
Hopefully someone will chime in with Butt Dyno numbers as to effectiveness of this mod.

FYI, even the Banshee improves with better dome design. Mostly because it's a late 80's design and a lot of R&D has gone into it.
Domes for coolheads are even custom cut for fuel type, desired compression ratio, even exact bore sizes.

1. Find a nice box that your cylinder head fits into nicely, and some cushion!
2. Call Ken and tell him you want to get his head mod
3. Send Ken your cylinder head
4. Receive cylinder head from Ken
5. Stare at the beauty of this man craftsmanship, maybe take it out on a nice date, whatever floats your boat.
5. Install and be amazed lol.

This is mine after getting it back from Ken. Its not only shaved but completely reconfigured. Its worth every penny.

THANKS jbuckster :cool: !!
 
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ok...i see wht yall are saying and the good thing is tht i have a lathe here at my job..so i would love to know how much to take off and the step part because i can do tht myself for the most part
 
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Not only does it clean up your bike, it also take about a pound (exaggerating) off of it too just by ditching the "brick" on top of the carb.
hey...joeak47, im gonna do tha head mod on my bike but do you mind telling me how much im supposed to take off
 
You will need to build a arbor first. This will fit in the three jaw chuck of the lathe, and will have threads at the end that mimick a spark plugs threads. The head is then "spun" onto the arbor. It spins with the arbor when the lathe is turned on. You will need to take about .030-.060 (thousandsths), then go from there.
If you are running a stroker crank, you will need to cut the head for piston clearance due to the fact that the piston comes out of the cylinder.
 
You will need to build a arbor first. This will fit in the three jaw chuck of the lathe, and will have threads at the end that mimick a spark plugs threads. The head is then "spun" onto the arbor. It spins with the arbor when the lathe is turned on. You will need to take about .030-.060 (thousandsths), then go from there.
If you are running a stroker crank, you will need to cut the head for piston clearance due to the fact that the piston comes out of the cylinder.
You will need to build a arbor first. This will fit in the three jaw chuck of the lathe, and will have threads at the end that mimick a spark plugs threads. The head is then "spun" onto the arbor. It spins with the arbor when the lathe is turned on. You will need to take about .030-.060 (thousandsths), then go from there.
If you are running a stroker crank, you will need to cut the head for piston clearance due to the fact that the piston comes out of the cylinder.
ok...i understand tha most of it just dnt knw how or wht the arbor would look like because thats gonna b the key part for holding the head in place...if u have a picture of it would b good and how far or where do i actually start from the inside of the head to start taking off