Bike shuts down at WOT!?!?
- Thread starter Marylandrider15
- Start date
So I'm doing a leakdown test and its not holding pressure at all.
So I realize this is where the leak is coming from. The hose hasn't been on it since I had it.
Does it need to be?
Where does the other end need to go?? It's not hooked up to nothing!
If I hook the other end to the gas cap it hold pressure
So I realize this is where the leak is coming from. The hose hasn't been on it since I had it.
Does it need to be?
Where does the other end need to go?? It's not hooked up to nothing!
If I hook the other end to the gas cap it hold pressure
Attachments
it is the gearbox vent tube.
it dont, hook to nothing.
you got a leaky clutch side crank seal
or a hole on your engine cases.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
cutting out a wot...
i would think is a reed fluttering problem
or fuel problem.....
FLOATS...VIBRATION ECT
whacked out carb settings.
it dont, hook to nothing.
you got a leaky clutch side crank seal
or a hole on your engine cases.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
cutting out a wot...
i would think is a reed fluttering problem
or fuel problem.....
FLOATS...VIBRATION ECT
whacked out carb settings.
[QUOTE="
If I hook the other end to the gas cap it hold pressure[/QUOTE]
What??? hook it to the gas cap??? Whaaa?
If I hook the other end to the gas cap it hold pressure[/QUOTE]
What??? hook it to the gas cap??? Whaaa?
the trans vent hose runs across above the carb then up that side frame rail to under the hood and hangs there in free air.
time to pull the clutch cover and spray soapy water on the crank seal while applying pressure with the tester, hopefully thats it and not a hole inside between the crank area and transmission < usually caused by a piece of broken piston smashed down by the crank.
do not run that bike again until you find and repair the cause of the leak !!!!!
the airleak may be the cause of your WOT shutdowns ?
time to pull the clutch cover and spray soapy water on the crank seal while applying pressure with the tester, hopefully thats it and not a hole inside between the crank area and transmission < usually caused by a piece of broken piston smashed down by the crank.
do not run that bike again until you find and repair the cause of the leak !!!!!
the airleak may be the cause of your WOT shutdowns ?
I did everything in that video but made sure it was dead bottom. Would this cause a different reading?
Hooking the hose up to the gas cap vent is a very bad thing to do. You now have a very large volume of air at 6 PSI. If you have another very small leak, like the reed cage gasket, it will take foreeeever to see a pressure drop on the gauge. Granted, you still have to fix the big leak, which, as speedy mentioned, could be as simple as a leaking crank seal, or as terminal as broken cases. However, it would be nice to know in advance if you have any other leaks. So, clamp the hose off with a pair of visegrips or hemostats and do your leak test. Because of the increased volume of the clutch cover, an acceptable test should probably be 30 minutes with no needle drop. After all that, pull the clutch cover and spray the crank seal with soapy water. If it foams up like someone dumped a box of Tide in a public fountain, then the crank seal is leaking and your cases may be OK. If no foam from the crank seal, then you cases are screwed.
Ok got the case cover off before I did any thing I pressurized it and heard the air leak sprayed it down and only can see it coming from the crank seal. So I disassembled the basket and all that took the crank gear off and POP! This bearing popped off. So I held it by hand and could see bubbles and hear air coming from in between that and the seal
Seals look brand new! The spring isn't stretched or nothing.
I seen Ken put case bond around this should I also do the same?
Seals look brand new! The spring isn't stretched or nothing.
I seen Ken put case bond around this should I also do the same?
you could try that, but really...you have it apart, just put a new seal in it, pop that one out and press new one in.
here's where someone uses case bond between the spacer and crank, as they do leak there sometimes too.......
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/crank-collar-seal-vid.50433/
could be either or both,
thats why a new seal, and that sealant method in the vid to seal collar to carnk are both good ideas
I also notice this taking it apart. The B was on the front I'm assuming it's the front cause of the stamped dot to match the balancer dot but the rough side is on the opposite side without the dot and I notice the other gear has the rough side showing just thought I would get an opinion on it. And yes the dots where touching and the same spot
Ok I'll do the case bond first since I have it here and it it doesn't fix it I'll order new crank seal.
Looking at the other seals the all look pretty damn new but who knows could be bad. Thanks AWK for all your help
So I couldn't get it sealed with the case bond and that's where it's coming from for sure on the crank…
BUT!!!! I believe it's cracked in between the counter balancer and crank. I can hear air coming from there and if it spin the counter blancer you can hear "push the air out" or slightly block it. Probably split case tomorrow smh
BUT!!!! I believe it's cracked in between the counter balancer and crank. I can hear air coming from there and if it spin the counter blancer you can hear "push the air out" or slightly block it. Probably split case tomorrow smh
Hmmmm no I didn't do that. But I most certainly do it first.
Fortunate I know a very good place to fix it if it's a cracked case.
Fortunate I know a very good place to fix it if it's a cracked case.
