Making my roundhouse swingarm!
- Thread starter 79 bronco
- Start date
nice looking beads ya layed there Doug !!!
i've seen way worse by some pretending to be professional at it
Thanks! It wasn't fun, im so shaky when i try to tig weld. I had to make 3 passes to fill it in. I did not want to add two much heat and melt through the bottom threaded part of the Pinch Bolts and kill the threads.
Now that i think about it, i DONT think the bullet pinch bolt are a good idea.
If the bolt get seized i got a problem.
If the bolt brakes i got a bigger problem.
If the threads get striped i got a mess.
They did not come with lock washers, should i use lock washers?
If i used the standard pinch bolt sleeves then i would just use a bolt with a nut on the bottom.
If it got seized then i could cut the nut of the bottom.
If the bolt brakes then the other half should come out, and i just buy a new bolt and nut.
If the nut threads get striped then i just buy a new nut and bolt.
Yeah, but it wouldn't look as nice and would take 2 tools to tighten rather than one.
No lockwashers. They are an almost useless appendage in my opinion.
Flatwashers if you need to spread the load under the bolt heads. Looks pretty good what you've got here.
I'd locktite the threads to protect from loosening and corrosion.
You could even drill and safety wire the bolt heads if you are really worried.
what best said..
loc-tite or anti-seize in there and you should be good
i like that look better than nut/bolt.
thats how the old lakota we had was set-up, it had threaded lower tubes....and the bolt stuck thru with a nut, i guess as a double locking system ??
and sure enuf one of the bolts did what you're suspecting, it was galded in the threads and a real mother to get loose/tight for chain adjustments, i never could get it the whole way out to drill out the threads...glad it's someone elses problem now.
loc-tite or anti-seize in there and you should be good
i like that look better than nut/bolt.
thats how the old lakota we had was set-up, it had threaded lower tubes....and the bolt stuck thru with a nut, i guess as a double locking system ??
and sure enuf one of the bolts did what you're suspecting, it was galded in the threads and a real mother to get loose/tight for chain adjustments, i never could get it the whole way out to drill out the threads...glad it's someone elses problem now.
The problem that I can see with using Loctite on a bolt that is going to be loosened quite often, is the cleaning out of the old thread locker and re application of the locker each time you adjust the chain.
If you are on the trail, it could propose a problem.
If it were mine I would choose the wire method, done professionally it can look quite appealing.
If you are on the trail, it could propose a problem.
If it were mine I would choose the wire method, done professionally it can look quite appealing.
I have to confess, I take to Loctite like it is a religion.
I dab EVERYTHING with it, always have since my Automotive Shop instructor showed it to me back in the 70s. Seemed like the clear answer to the parts that were falling off my 1974 CR250 Elsinore. Well, I've never stopped daubing. I live in salt country here, they dump tons of salt on the roads all winter. Bodies rot off the cars, but any bolts I put in with Loctite turn out as nice as can be. As well as resisting loosening, it keeps out corrosion and lubricates the threads to prevent galling and stripping. Love the stuff
Yes, it does gum up threads so nuts cannot be spun off with your fingers.
Yes, it does collect in blind holes (like this application) so don't over apply it.
If a bolt breaks off, drill it, install the easy out and a bit of propane torch heat will have it spin out.
When dealing with stripped holes, I always Loctite the helicoils in and allow cure time.
Stainless steel is notorious for galling and won't cure Loctite, so I spray it with the accelerator/cure agent to solve both problems on my marine stuff.
However, lock wiring has its charms too. It is absolutely positive when done right.
Steve
Everyone has valid points. However, unless you neglect maintenance should never have to adjust chain on the trail, so wire would be OK, and not like you have to adjust chains often so loctite is good too.
I have a big jug of red, compliments of the Marines through a friend, so I use the crap out of it.
Wasn't aware of the issue with SS, good to know.
I have a big jug of red, compliments of the Marines through a friend, so I use the crap out of it.
Wasn't aware of the issue with SS, good to know.
I set the welder for 1/8 plate and did a quick test on some 1/8 plate scrap.
I got it clamped in place, and went around it running stitch welds where i could get to and trying to keep the heat down.
I flipped it in the jig, and welded it on the bottom.
I got it clamped in place, and went around it running stitch welds where i could get to and trying to keep the heat down.
I flipped it in the jig, and welded it on the bottom.
i like the allen wrench for shock mount
wht color are u thinking for the steel part??
I have not decided on a color yet! It will probably just be black or silver with some spray cans, until i decide im happy with it and wont be making any changes. Then i will get it powder coated.
very nice looking swinger there. If you make a +3 and would ike it tested for extreme MX let me know?
I would have rotated the flame carrier just a bit more back so its more visible but not hatin because thats some clean work and the welds are pretty damn sweet looking too!
I would have rotated the flame carrier just a bit more back so its more visible but not hatin because thats some clean work and the welds are pretty damn sweet looking too!
