I had lots of trouble finding information on the Barnett clutch kits for specific yfs200. I e-mailed Barnettclutches.com but they still never got back to me. I dont know if they dont give a f*ck or what, but right now im declaring Barnett has HORRIBLE customer service. I dont know what else to say, a company like that should have stand-up reps to help you with your questions. Before installing the clutch I searched and researched all over the internet and read everything about clutches in my Clymers manual because I am a newbie to ATV's (adjusting clutch, inspection, installation, etc...). I cant stress enough how f'ing important that is! If you just research the majority of your questions can be answered instead of posting up topics that have been beaten to death.(ex. How do i tighten my chain. Sprocket sizes. Carb problems). And some guys were nice enough to put up a PDF format for the Yamaha Blaster. USE IT!
Im writing this in part to help out anyone else on the internet that wants to get a Barnett clutch. The clutches do not come with any instructions or anything. Just plates and springs in a bag. So hopefully for those who want to do the installation right they will search for it and most of the problems will be addressed.
I began with taking off the right side case, removing clutch, clutch boss and the clutch basket because I got a new Hinson basket to compliment the clutch. Began to reassemble everything in the order it came out.
Right away I ran into problems as Im reading my Clymers manual on properly installing a new clutch.
1) Barnett clutches DO NOT have one bigger friction plate. I thought I was crazy so I took out the vernial caliper and measured inside and outside diameters and they were all the same. That stumped me for a while.
2) The Barnett metal clutch plates DO NOT have a metal tab on them to indicate the position, but the Clymers manual said to place each metal plate 60 degrees clockwise from the prior metal plate. So im in my garage observing each metal clutch plate to see if there is some kind of tab or marking to show its position, but there is not. When installing, just slide them in any way.
3) When installing the Barnett cluch kit, you DO NOT use the metal ring that is sandwiched between the first metal clutch plate and the 2nd friction plate. Don't try to reuse it; toss it.
I had everything put together but the clutch. After hours of researching I found out that; yes, all the friction plates are the same size. And it doesnt matter how you put in the metal clutch plates; no specific 60 degree bullshit.
Review: I still have some minor adjustments to make on the clutch but it is a HUGE improvement. You could tell if your clutch is slipping by putting the ATV in neutral, pressing in the clutch, and put it in first gear, while its running (obviously). If it jumps forward or bucks forward, its time for a new clutch. Or if your hammering down on the throttle and it revs up but does not accelerate like its supposed to. Since the Barnett clutch was put on, when I put it in first gear it will stay right in its place and not buck forward alittle bit. You can do wheelies all day with no effort.
I dont know if other aftermarket companies have tabs on the metal clutch plates or not, but im curious to find out. And also, on other aftermarket clutches are all the friction plates the same size? Or is there one bigger one like the OEM?
If anybody has any questions about installing the Barnett clutch just shoot me a PM or post it in this thread.
Im writing this in part to help out anyone else on the internet that wants to get a Barnett clutch. The clutches do not come with any instructions or anything. Just plates and springs in a bag. So hopefully for those who want to do the installation right they will search for it and most of the problems will be addressed.
I began with taking off the right side case, removing clutch, clutch boss and the clutch basket because I got a new Hinson basket to compliment the clutch. Began to reassemble everything in the order it came out.
Right away I ran into problems as Im reading my Clymers manual on properly installing a new clutch.
1) Barnett clutches DO NOT have one bigger friction plate. I thought I was crazy so I took out the vernial caliper and measured inside and outside diameters and they were all the same. That stumped me for a while.
2) The Barnett metal clutch plates DO NOT have a metal tab on them to indicate the position, but the Clymers manual said to place each metal plate 60 degrees clockwise from the prior metal plate. So im in my garage observing each metal clutch plate to see if there is some kind of tab or marking to show its position, but there is not. When installing, just slide them in any way.
3) When installing the Barnett cluch kit, you DO NOT use the metal ring that is sandwiched between the first metal clutch plate and the 2nd friction plate. Don't try to reuse it; toss it.
I had everything put together but the clutch. After hours of researching I found out that; yes, all the friction plates are the same size. And it doesnt matter how you put in the metal clutch plates; no specific 60 degree bullshit.
Review: I still have some minor adjustments to make on the clutch but it is a HUGE improvement. You could tell if your clutch is slipping by putting the ATV in neutral, pressing in the clutch, and put it in first gear, while its running (obviously). If it jumps forward or bucks forward, its time for a new clutch. Or if your hammering down on the throttle and it revs up but does not accelerate like its supposed to. Since the Barnett clutch was put on, when I put it in first gear it will stay right in its place and not buck forward alittle bit. You can do wheelies all day with no effort.
I dont know if other aftermarket companies have tabs on the metal clutch plates or not, but im curious to find out. And also, on other aftermarket clutches are all the friction plates the same size? Or is there one bigger one like the OEM?
If anybody has any questions about installing the Barnett clutch just shoot me a PM or post it in this thread.
