wont start

2000chevy

New Member
Jan 23, 2013
142
3
23
west virginia
ok Im getting good spark and I have good reeds Ive recently cleaned the carb and the motor has a brand new top end. I don't have a compression tester so I cant check the compression but when I pull the plug and kick it over standing up I can feel the air on my face. It has coughed sputtered and backfired a few times. Any suggestions?
 
For compression, it isn't a good test but having the engine prepped in full and just kicking it you should feel a good amount of compression...that's what I did with mine. Have you checked the gas? Troubleshooting can be difficult & take much time (I spent 3 hours probably with myself and a friend) just be patient and know you are getting it done right.

A mechanic I'm friends with always said this, "An engine needs spark, air, & fuel" pretty simple way to start troubleshooting...
 
is the plug wet when you pull it ?
have you tried a new plug ?
 
try a new plug, they can foul instantly, fuel/oil gets up inside the porcelein.
it'll spark when checking, but not under pressure in the cylinder
 
If you have a good spark, and it splutters and tries to start you may have flooded it.

Turn the petcock off, drain the carby, remove the spark plug and kick it with the throttle wide open until your leg hurts.

Put in a new plug, reverse all other processes an try to start it.
 
When starting my bike I play with the throttle a little, mine also doesn't idle yet...gotta make adjustments

Just a heads up, try getting an Iridium plug...they cost like $2 or $3 more but worth every penny, they don't flood from what I understand and just run great overall
 
Unless you are running a highly tuned motor and using an exotic blend of fuel, then an Iridium plug is a sheer waste of money.

You better fix that idle so that the motor will start without playing with the throttle or you may be in for a nasty surprise.
 
This sounds very similar to what I was just going through on my Daughters Blaster. I cleaned the carb several times and the best I could get the bike to do was spit and sputter for a few seconds and then it would die. It turns out that I actually had a piece of crap sitting down inside the seat of the needle that was keeping the fuel flowing causing the bike to flood almost as fast as I could the fuel on. Once I rectified that, she starts on the first kick every time now. And remember I cleaned the carb several times and that piece of whatever it was hanging on for dear life. I didn't notice it until I actually looked closely in GOOD light that I could see something wasn't right down there. If I were you, I would take another look at the carb and pay particular attention the needle seat.
 
still haven't got around to getting a new plug, but I around how many kicks without the plug in approximately? should fuel vapor still be coming out of the plug hole when I'm done kicking it over?
 
Ill try and get a new plug this weekend and clean the carb out really good I had only previously tore the carb down and sprayed it out but this time I'll soak it and spray it out.
 
Finally got access to a compression tester and it read about 125 psi so that isn't the problem I pulled out the needle valve seat and that passage was clear. I still haven't got a new plug yet I will be doing that asap
 
Have you checked the float levels in your carb? Did you Blow out all the passage ways with compressed air after cleaning? Air screw about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated? Inspect your reeds for chips, cracks, not seating? When it did roll start did it run alright or like crap?

That's about All I can think of to help you. If I forgot something Im sure someone else will chime in.

Fred
 
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Got a new plug and roll started it twice... This evening I went to do it and it didn't want to run at all

how did it run when bump started ?
if good ? that points to carb - float height, pilot jet or airscrew