Why did my top end go?

https://www.google.com/search?q=2+s...=YAlMVeLEFoXXsAWVk4CAAg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAA&dpr=1

Dremal with flex shaft and small fine stone. Exhaust is the main one because the rings will bulge out into port, so they need extra "help" getting tucked back in. Transfers don't need as much because they aren't as wide. Intake doesn't really need any as rings never go over them, tho knocking the square edge off doesn't hurt a thing. Will actually remove small burrs that may come loose later.
 
Okay so I have no where around here that bores ctlinders. And I certainly dont want to ship it anywhere So if I buy a 100$ cylinder kit and properly chamfer the ports on it, would that be ok?
 
Okay so I have no where around here that bores ctlinders. And I certainly dont want to ship it anywhere So if I buy a 100$ cylinder kit and properly chamfer the ports on it, would that be ok?
Don't buy that cylinder. Take the hundred bucks and send it to KOR and save the headache. It will be done right the first time. Otherwise, with that crappy cylinder your gonna end up spending twice as much, after the cylinder takes a dump on you. Nobody likes being dumped on.
 
Okay so I have no where around here that bores ctlinders. And I certainly dont want to ship it anywhere So if I buy a 100$ cylinder kit and properly chamfer the ports on it, would that be ok?


A cylinder and head will fit in a USPS large priority box and ship anywhere in the US for $15.
jus sayin :)
 
Okay so I have no where around here that bores ctlinders. And I certainly dont want to ship it anywhere So if I buy a 100$ cylinder kit and properly chamfer the ports on it, would that be ok?

Do not BUY, I repeat, DO NOT BUY. I was in the same boat you are once. I bought the kit and spent close to 10 hours with a dremel just to get it to run "ok" Please take a look at my build thread HERE and go to page 3. I wish I would have bought an OEM cylinder and sent it to Ken.
 
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That sucks. Okay well mailing it is not an option so I guess Ill hone it and make sure the end gap ia right on the new piston
 
There is no helping him! There are many machine shops, very few excellent ones! Wise up, call KOR!! And no I don't work there. But I did stay in a Holiday Inn last nite.
 
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How is mailing it not an option? are you a fugitive living in the woods with no address? What's the deal man ? All serious it will save you $ all around. Crap cyl off e bay = it will run for a minute then leave you stranded when running from the feds your hiding from = :mad:...

Or send the oem cyl out and have it done correctly for even cheaper = xtra $ for fake passports and beer = :D
 
cylinder 1.jpg
 
The pic above shows excess casting in exhaust port on one of those cheap cylinders VERY SKETCHY could catch a ring. Bought it as a spare because it was cheap bad idea
 
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If he's willing to have a Chiwaneese cylinder shipped to him, he obviously doesn't live in outer Mongolia, so the only reason he can't ship his cylinder out must be that his Yugo won't make it from the trailer park to the post office on the other side of town.
 
That sucks. Okay well mailing it is not an option so I guess Ill hone it and make sure the end gap ia right on the new piston

Who measured the cylinder to insure it's round and straight?
With a screen name such as "Upbasher" I'll guess you are in the U.P. of Mich. , eh?
The hookers in Escanaba are tighter than that piston in a worn out hole.
Good money chasing bad right here.
 
Okay I had a local shop hone the cylinder. Put a new piston in. Did the same thing again. Overheated and seized.
Running out of ideas as to what is causing the overheating. Is it possible for a bad reed valve to cause overheating? Because that is the only other thing I changed since last year before I rebuilt the engine. It was running fantastic then....
 
If it ran perfect before the rebuild I would say the builder jacked it up or you didn't do heat cycles and retorque before riding it. Either that or you all the sudden have a massive lean condition but I would think you would have run away idle if it was that big.
 
The hell with that forged piston. I would go with a cast stock oem, Pro X, WSM, Vertex, etc any day before that wiseco. I've had piston ring locating pins come out on the wiseco's. Wiseco's quality has definitely gone down hill over the years. Four corner seizures seem to be the norm for those things. Yes they will handle detonation a bit better, but build your engine so it doesn't detonate (ping) in the first place. The wiseco cranks are crap too. A stock crank rebuilt by Ken Oconnor is the way to go and done right. Just my opinion.
 
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