first off nick, what carb we talkin about here ????? and are you runnin a stroker crank ???? i forget your exact mods and set-up except the oconnor magic and dynoport pipe ???
and no fenders hahahaaaaaaa
adjust the pilot down, usually lower than you think to get it to idle and rev good, it's highly unusual to have a piston fry at idle to 1/4 throttle, theres enuf oil layin in the cases to cover that, unless of course you let it idle for an hour or ride that long times under 1/4 throttle where the needle starts kickin in < just my .02
i have never had any luck with the needle clip in any other position but the middle, on 3 different carbs and different levels of mods, 2nd and 4th clip down settings seem to be a sure sign a different needle is needed or the carb is too big/small for the mods
most 34pj's require a different needle to completely rev clean, i use a "dgh"
noobs and others have good luck with the "cel" needles
but definately start at the bottom with the float setting, it must be to exact spec for your carb, then get it to idle and rev clean with the pilot and airscrew under 2 turns out, then mids with the needle and lastly the main, as all the lower settings will effect the jetting range above it, so a main wot plug chop today, will read differently tomorrow if you then fool with the pilot or needle settings
and i have never, not even once got a plug porcelein to show me color even after a few wot runs, unless it is extremely rich that it will foul it after one run
you have to read the smoke ring down inside for an accurate wot plug read, either by cutting off the threads, or with a bright light and magnifying glass
after a few rides, you'll start to see color on the exposed porcelein, and can keep an eye on overall jetting health by pulling the plug and just looking at it
i know some of this is a repeat of what you've read time and time again, but sometimes different wording will help, if even only in one jetting range, that will free you up and have you on your way !!!!!
