tors removal
- Thread starter elite123
- Start date
disconect everything, and u have to get a kit from ebay or something that comes with the new cable, idle screw, and tapping bit. so u can controll; the idle.
Since we are talking about TORS removal, I bought the kit off eBay, I drilled my carb and tapped it like I was supposed to but the idle screw doesn't fit very tight. It wiggles around in the hole. Is it supposed to do that or do I need to buy a new carb?
uhhhh no its not sopose to do that. did u tap the rite side of the carb? and also what u can do is put blue lock tight on the screw, quickly strart the bike, and set the idle. than kill it and let the locktight dry. did u buy the rite kit for a blaster?
The screw isn't supposed to " wiggle " and putting loc tite on it won't do you much good because adjusting the idle will be next to impossible . Can you take a picture of your carb , where you tapped it . And did you file the aluminum boss flat before you drilled it?
Did you put the carb in a vice? Did you drill it with a drill press or a hand drill?
Did you use tapping oil on the tap when cutting the threads? Anyways that screw being loose is a airleak , and a airleak is a death stroke to your motor .
Did you put the carb in a vice? Did you drill it with a drill press or a hand drill?
Did you use tapping oil on the tap when cutting the threads? Anyways that screw being loose is a airleak , and a airleak is a death stroke to your motor .
Yes I did everything right. I drilled it next to where the fuel line hooks up like the directions said to.
If you screwed the tap in like you screw a bolt in, you could have possibly stuffed up the threads on the hole.
The proceedure is to turn the tap for one turn and then reverse the direction for just over a 1/4 of a turn to relieve the swarf, then forward for another turn, then repeat the process till the tap has finished is work, whilst lubricating it with Metho or WD40.
I know of no repair other than a Helicoil that will fix that carb.
You could try setting the idle then running up the lock nut to hold the bolt, but be careful not to put too much tension on the nut as the threads may tear out.
Good luck, I hope you don't have to buy a new carb.
The proceedure is to turn the tap for one turn and then reverse the direction for just over a 1/4 of a turn to relieve the swarf, then forward for another turn, then repeat the process till the tap has finished is work, whilst lubricating it with Metho or WD40.
I know of no repair other than a Helicoil that will fix that carb.
You could try setting the idle then running up the lock nut to hold the bolt, but be careful not to put too much tension on the nut as the threads may tear out.
Good luck, I hope you don't have to buy a new carb.
When you say "wiggles",how bad?Or is it more of a lose fit? My carbs were done at a tool and die shop with the tap from the kit and they too, were a lose fit,one might say wiggley. But. with my kit I received a jam nut that went on the idle screw. When I have it were I want it ,I tighten up the jam nut against the part that was filed or milled flat and I have no problems. I expected it to be a better fit also.
As far as completely removing the TORS system. Isnt there just three main parts. The controller up under the hood, sensor in thumb throttle housing, and the box that sits on top of the carb right?
It is more of a loose fit i guess you could say it would be like trying to fit a 3/8" bolt into a 10mm hole. It will fit bit not right.
You're prolly be ok by setting the idle with the screw, then nipping up the brass lock nut.
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