So i need some Urgent help yet again....

[Kgries]

2 strokes are starting to drive me insane...

Yesterday i repacked my muffler and put some power reeds in...ran fine before that. After i had the carb and everything off i started it...starts in one kick no matter what, only a small leak AFTER the exhaust header flange.

but here's my problem...when it idles down it surges and vibrates...and vibrates at idle but only after i rev it...ive been messing with my idle screw and pilot screw but im getting no where, just different levels of vibrating/surging.

any ideas...is it all in my idle/pilot screw? I need to get this bad boy running by tomorrow afternoon. Big quading trip...

im attributing the extra smoke to more gas than air.. its all blue smoke and doesnt smell like tranny oil or anything.

Im in the process of uploading a quick video

 

[Quadman1]

Did you say leak? That's your problem.

 

[woodrow wilson]

Did you leak test after putting the reeds on? What do you mean vibrates?

 

[Kgries]

Did you say leak? That's your problem.

i thought if its a small leak after the header flange its okay? ill patch that up tomorrow.

Did you leak test after putting the reeds on? What do you mean vibrates?

not after...ill do one tomorrow morning real quick. I mean it shakes violently when it idles down. And shakes more than it was before during normal idle

 

[Quadman1]

Do you have the little black things on the cylinder? I forget the name of them.

 

[Kgries]

yes they're still on there

 

[Blaaster]

There must be no leaks, exhaust or inlet otherwise the jetting will be incorrect.

A leak test should be performed after replacing the reed block, is is so easy to warp the block by over tightening.

5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally, sealing surfaces with Copper high temp RTV.

What reeds did you fit and did you install them with the stock stoppers, if there was a thin plate what did you do with it?

No good just messing with the idle and air screw, it has to be done in a sequence.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

Extra smoke could be because it has been running poorly at idle and there is a build up of oil in the crankcase.

 

[Kgries]

There must be no leaks, exhaust or inlet otherwise the jetting will be incorrect.

A leak test should be performed after replacing the reed block, is is so easy to warp the block by over tightening.

5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally, sealing surfaces with Copper high temp RTV.

What reeds did you fit and did you install them with the stock stoppers, if there was a thin plate what did you do with it?

No good just messing with the idle and air screw, it has to be done in a sequence.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

Extra smoke could be because it has been running poorly at idle and there is a build up of oil in the crankcase.

alright ill get that pesky exhaust leak sealed up and do a leak test.

I used the boysen power reeds. I put the yellowish piece,then the carbon fiber reeds, then the metal piece. I didnt use the stock metal thing.

I sealed up the everything with copper rtv no leaks there.

thanks for all the info.

 

[Blaaster]

It is a good idea to use the stock metal thing, they are stoppers which allow the reeds to gently bend around a curve, not bend wildly at a sharp fulcrum.

Reed life can be so much longer by using the stock stoppers.

 

[Blaner]

Good day all! its been a while since a popped on here, so I thought id ad my 2 cents to let you all know im still kick(start)ing. You probably have a leak around the intake boot where it bolts onto the cylinder.

 

[Blaaster]

Hi there Mr B, long time no see, sorry for upsetting the thread.