i dont know why or how it happend but it di i have a 02 blaster with fmf pipes other then that its stock it ran good till it died what shoul i be using for gas/oil and should i run octain boost in it or not the guy that does my work said it got hot backfired and blew out the reeds and siezed the piston idk if it was from the gas/ oil i used or what happend anyhelp would be appriciated guys thanx
seized motor 3hrs after rebuild
- Thread starter jakeracefox
- Start date
Little more info would be a Huge help. What kind of premix oil? Ratio? Was the engine leak tested? Plug chopped to confirm your jetting? Anything that you did to the engine, let us know. It helps eliminate stuff!!
no octain booster. 2 stoke injecton oil for non mixxed gas. if your mixing gas then 2 stoke mixing oil. look it up many have asked before.
burning it hard after a rebuild can sieze it pretty easly
burning it hard after a rebuild can sieze it pretty easly
Gas is a 32:1 mix if the oil injection is removed. That is 4oz of premix 2 stroke oil per 1 gallon of fuel....slightly higher oil content than that of the oil injection. What all was rebuilt, top end, bottom end, entire engine? Before tearing it apart again, maybe you should do a leakdown test and see if there was any leaks in any of the head gaskets....maybe the rebuild went bad.
My only question, how does this guy know what happened when the bike blew up on you? Depending on how much work he did, if he installed the reeds he could've possible screwed them up and when they broke they blew your sh*t up for you. Did you hear it backfire or did it just seize up?
Possible piston in backwards, sheared flywheel woodruff key, Intermittent ignition problem. 93 octane fresh gas and some good premix oil like super m.
And from your description, new reeds. get some boysens will help a little
And from your description, new reeds. get some boysens will help a little
Try a leak down test make sure your head gaskets arens bad......if not pull the head and pour kerosene in your bottomend.......the kero will free up your bottom end and did you keep oil in the bottom end.....what all did you guy do to it...that would help greatly
What octain gas were you using? Did either of you put reeds in recently? Were the screws loctited? Are all the screws still in them?
After rebuild and before fire up, you need to double check that every fastener is tight to spec. You need to do a leak down test and make sure the jets are of a safe size before break in. After you fire it up, you need to do the proper break in while re checking the base and head bolts to make sure there tighten to spec after each heat cycle.
Well that sucks to hear , Allot of blaster owners Do not find this Site in time , I Would Find out What needs to be replaced and start over , Yes it sucks to put money in it so fast after your Rebuild , Sounds like it Was not broken in the right way
Did the guy who did your work have any qualifications for working with 2 stroke motors?
Overheating, sounds like an air leak. Was a leak down test performed prior to starting?
Is the carb jetted for the FMF pipe?
Were any heat cycles performed, before riding, and did you ride a tank of fuel through at no more than 3/4 throttle.
Do you run oil injection, what oil do you use, and was the system bled prior to starting.
If you pre mix, what oil and what ratio?
the guy is qualified for two stroke motors he races 2 stroke bikes, the oil was mixed 40:1 with 92 and booster it is 2 stroke marine grade penzoil mix
Just because he races 2 stroke bikes, gives him no qualifications.
Did he tell you to run 40:1 with an outboard motor oil.
Two problems show up here.
In my opinion, 40:1 pre mix has not enough oil for break in.
Marine oil is not designed for air cooled motor cycles, and should not be used!
Your main jet needs to be at least a #270 or #280 for the FMF pipe.
Engine Break In - YouTube
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch of the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
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no thats not whathe told me thats what i ran before so thats what ran, i didnt break it in properly, and didnt do the right mix my bad $#!T happens i guess, thanx for the info guys this all should help out alot when i get it back on fri
Make sure after its fixed you do a Leak down test , Then only use the same gas and oil for premix or for the oil tank , The More Consistent you are with your Air Fuel Mixture the longer the bike will last !
