Rod Bearing troubles

sbsofcos

New Member
May 4, 2015
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Hello all! First time posting and I have been very impressed with everyone's knowledge on this forum. Well the story begins with getting a " good deal" on a 2001 Blaster. I was told it had a new big bore kit a race Keihin carburator and a a new exhaust. It was never started with the new parts and had been stored for quite some time. The engine seemed hard to turn over so I took off the carb and reed vales squirted some oil on the rod and piston bearings. Inside the cylinder looked terrible. Must have had water get into the engine. A lot of rust and grime. Not knowing what to do, I sprayed some gas and oil mix repeatedly and wiped as much as I could. Looked a little better, re oiled the bearings and moved on to the carb. The engine did turn over a lot easier. The carb was full of rust and junk too so I took it apart and soaked in cleaner and reassembled. I was able to get it started and it ran ok. Was pretty gental on it and then it died. Took off top end and found a stiff rod bearing. I was thinking about doing the bottom end myself, but does anybody know someone in Colorado? It has a 240 cylinder, the Keihin Pwk has a 55 and 168 jets (it smoked a little but the spark plug was tan) no oil pump, 32-1 gas mix. I figure just the dirty inside caused the bearing to go and not the carb setting. I watched the Conner videos, its pretty involved, but I might be able to do it. Is there a step by step Manual that could help with steps, exploded views and torque settings. Any advise would be much appreciated. It's a real bummer, it ran good four a couple days and was a lot of fun. I thought I did get a good deal.
Please help......
 
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First thing to do is figure out what stroke it is, You'll want to replace with same.
Be sure to use new crank brgs, wrist pin and wrist pin brg.

Don't know about the pdf manual, but the Clymers Repair manual is excellant. Also has "general" repair/maintenance tips. Along with the vids you're golden. A flwheel puller and this :http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html will get the cases apart.
May want a clutch holder if you can't improvise.

I suggest powerwashing the motor before teardown.
 
Here are a few pics of the rod. It doesn't look to have any blue on the crank but I don't see what you mean about the 4mil groove .





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At the bottom of the dowstroke where the bottomg of the rod will be closest to the cases, it will be trenched to allow the rod to travel with out hitting. will look like this:




Then how you will tell with the cases together:


 
WOW! That bottom end is junk, but I'll give you $200 for the cylinder and head.
 
So, for a stock rod there would not be any milling at the bottom?

Bluesman, It also has a brand new CT Racing Exhaust. I will consider your offer depending on how things go with the rebuild.

It's to bad someone did not take better care of the machine. It appears to have a lot of money in good parts. What little bit I got on it when it ran, it was crazy powerful!
 
Thanks for the link. I had already downloaded the service manual and the operating manual. How much more detailed is the Clymers repair manual? The service manual shows a basic step by step for engine dis and re assembly.
Thanks for everyone's help!
 
Thanks for the link. I had already downloaded the service manual and the operating manual. How much more detailed is the Clymers repair manual? The service manual shows a basic step by step for engine dis and re assembly.
Thanks for everyone's help!

The Clymers has both general and Blaster specific repair procedures, little bit of general tuning, lots of maintenance tips.
 
Wiesco bottom ends a "junk" from what I have read. They are can be shipped out of acceptable tolerance. One of the better things to do is get an OEM crank rebuilt or hot rods should be fine too.