Right crank seal wear ring

blaster003

Member
May 13, 2014
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I just put new crank seals in and I'm still leaking from them. So I sprayed water and I found out the leak is coming from between the crank and crank seal wear ring. Do I need a new wear ring? I watched KORs vids on the assembly and he put sealer on the end of the wear ring, I did this but it's still leaking?
 
Have you checked the crank in that area for pitting, or gouges? I had one that was and it would seal at first, then eventually start leaking.
 
A new ring is a possibility, but is it possible you didn't full seat the seal or tweaked it by mistake during assembly? It would suck to replace that part and still find you have a leak still, keep us updated
 
Look at the collar and see if you would have a new wear surface if you spun it end for end. Clean collàr and crank with brake clean, smear inside of collàr on end that goes in with 3 bond. Coat inside of seal with grease, set seal no deèper than flush, number markings face out.
 
The seal is not leaking it's leaking in between the wear ring and the crank
Well that's good !! Remove collàr, clean collàr and crank with brake cleaner or laquer thinner, let dry. Put 3 bond / Yammabond on inside of collar on end that goes on FIRST. IIRC there is also a sticky in the engine forum that explains this procedure.

What's funny is that Banshee can leak at the keyway, so I do both keyway and collàr on both Banshees and Blasters.
 
This is where it is leaking I've already put yamahabond on it and it still leaks
 

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Are you letting it set up for a little bit??? Give it a couple hours or so. Also how much PSI are you putting into it? Seems like ALOT of bubbles for 6/7 PSI.
 
What is the white stuff on the seal ??
Did you seal collàr similar to how I explained it or in the sticky?
No matter, needs to be redone. Be sure to allow time for sealant to cure before leak test.
I would also do the keyway just because. Make sure you do this in such a way that you are not pushing sealant into the bearing.
 
I am putting 5-6 psi into the cases. I let the sealer setup for 24 hours the last time and it still leaked. Im going to try it again today, I'll keep updates
 
I did the same thing in the vid and waited 24 hours and still leaking I even used the same dealer in the vid. I can here it leaking somewhere next to the coller it's in under the clutch cover where else could it leak inside the clutch cover?
 
I did the same thing in the vid and waited 24 hours and still leaking I even used the same dealer in the vid. I can here it leaking somewhere next to the coller it's in under the clutch cover where else could it leak inside the clutch cover?

spray the soapy water on everything in there, it will tell you where it's leaking.
brake cleaner to flush the soapy water out when done
 
I'm not leaking at the coller anymore but it's still leaking very slow. Where else would it be leaking I can still here air on the clutch side
 
possible leak areas:

- Head Gasket
- Base gasket
- Between 2 case halves
- Intake / Reed Cage ***Very common spots for leaks
- Clutch side crank gasket
- Stator side crank gasket
- Spark plug
 
I've checked everywhere. I'm thinking the case halves inside the case that separate the crank and transmission. Is there any way to test the internal case halves?
 
I've checked everywhere. I'm thinking the case halves inside the case that separate the crank and transmission. Is there any way to test the internal case halves?


yep, use a leakdown tester to pressurize, while holding the trans vent hose in a cup full of soapy water.
if it's leaking internally the hose in the cup will produce bubbles.