recommend mx suspension

[spin b]

I am looking for recommendations based on quality and customer service (warranty if something happens)
I ride on a level 1 mx track. I consider myself a professional amateur rider. It's all for fun.
Just had KOR build me a 3 mm stroker, ported and everything else Ken could do. Now I want to have great suspension. I want direct bolt on stuff. Long travel. Was looking at the sms +5 5/8 set up. Don't know if I really need that wide. I just want smooth landings. Elka is running a sale I believe, so I may go that direction. I don't want to have to buy new rims just yet, unless I have to. What advice do you have for me

 

[jus_me]

If you are going with the Sms 5 5/8 A arms you will need 4+1 offset rims in order to keep your width under 50". I have those a arms and they are built verry well.

 

[spin b]

Can you recommend a descent set of rims to handle the type of riding I do? I don't need the best of the best. I just want something that's not gonna bend if I over shoot any jumps.
If I have to get new rims do I have to get new spindles? This blaster is a '06
is there anything else I would have to buy if I went this direction with the sms + 5 5/8 set up

 

[jus_me]

You can either use the stock Blaster spindles or you can go with something different depending what ball joints you order (Banshee, Yfz,250r<400ex, 450r etc...= more $). You will also need longer brake lines. As for a good rim to be honest I really like Yamaha's rolled lip oem rims but unfortunately I don't know of any in a 4+1 offset. Most if not all aftermarket rims are pretty much rated in there aluminum thickness. It is really going to come down to your budget. Let us know your budget and we will all do our best to try and help and give our opinions what would be best for you.

 

[spin b]

Budget is about $2,000....i can spend more, but don't "need" to go to crazy. In that budget I was hoping to get front end and rear end completed. Not sure if that's possible. I don't want to buy something that needs more stuff that I wasn't aware of, and wind up spending way more. Trying to keep it simple.
Is there a noticeable difference between going with the +5 extended a arms vs a +3. Maybe that way I wouldn't have to buy rims yet. Just looking at options available

 

[Awk08]

some as mentioned above.....

to stay within the 50" max width for racing, with the +5's you'll need to use a reverse offset rim to keep within that.
with the +3 arms, you can use stock rolled lip banshee/yfz rims rims and still be within the 50"

I run +3 ASR arms and elka stage 3's front/rear with a tusk axle and yami rolled lip rims.
although I don't race, what I do put it thru is every bit if not worse than any track, it floats thru the worst stuff you could imagine and landing jumps is like butta !

the stock rolled lip banshee/yfz rims are some of the toughest made, I've destroyed a couple sets of .190 rims of various aftermarket makes, the stock shee/yfz rims have held up well. and with the +3 arms and yfz rims have me right over 48" in the front, the G-force/Tusk axle with stock shee rims and maxxis razr II's has me at 49" in the rear

you will need to go to a 9" tire in the rear for any of the other 9" yami rims, and also used shee/yfz rear hubs.
but thats why alot of us do it, way better tire selection in 9" versus the stock blaster 8"

I'd save the extra $ and hassle of finding reverse offset rims to match the +5 arms, and spend that $ elsewhere.
you can achieve the 48/49 - 50" limit with +3 arms.

 

[spin b]

Excellent info. You have swayed me to the +3 side Awk08. Am I understanding correctly that the shee/yfz rims are the same bolt pattern? Meaning that shee/yfz rims AND hubs are interchangeable?
I already have shee front spindles for a arms that I can use for the front.

 

[Awk08]

ASR has been great with a few members here when their heim joint supplier dropped the ball with bad heim's. (I have older heims and they still run flawless)
their solution was to promptly replace the bad heims with regular ball joints, which i suggest you get the first time.
tell them what spindles you plan to use so they supply the correct balls joints.
and also what shocks and length so they can build them for that.
in this case it's best to call them directly to order these, not buy from a middle man or ebay.


all yamaha sport atvs' run the same front bolt pattern and all front rims interchange.

all run the same rear bolt pattern except the blaster and pre 90 banshee and warrior.
some YFZ rear hubs add like 2", i'm not sure what year or model (yfz -x ?)
if you stick with 1990+ banshee hubs you'll be golden to run the stock rolled lip rims.

as for the axle, I run a g-force, now tusk, ($200-ish) from rocky mt. atv, and on ebay.
it's been good but i doubt it's the strongest of the lot ?
if you're getting big air ? and maybe coming up long/short ?.... it might pay to spend the extra hundo on a lonestar or rpm dominator ?
priced highest first....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=yamaha+blaster+rear+axle&_sop=3

 

[Herpderplol]

I have had ASR arms and loved them. they look good just being black.
i never had a problem, but if you do they are very helpful

i now have the SMS arms and aftermarket rims. with my frame lifted, im 48" wide. if i squish it down i push 52"

 

[spin b]

If I wanted to use the banshee spindles I have, and have the asr a arms set up for them, are there any additional parts I would need, or will the remaining blaster parts finish off the assembly?

Herpderplol, do you notice a difference between the smoothness of those 2 set ups? Like, is the wider set up smother when landing from jumps, or simply driving over rough terrain? . My goal is as smooth a ride as possible. Is it really "the wider the better"

 

[Herpderplol]

If I wanted to use the banshee spindles I have, and have the asr a arms set up for them, are there any additional parts I would need, or will the remaining blaster parts finish off the assembly?

Herpderplol, do you notice a difference between the smoothness of those 2 set ups? Like, is the wider set up smother when landing from jumps, or simply driving over rough terrain? . My goal is as smooth a ride as possible. Is it really "the wider the better"

well the sag on my elkas with the SMS arms is quite a bit.
from normal riding height, i can lift the quad about 5 inches before tires come off the ground

now the wider stance as it is, puts more leverage on the shocks, making them move easier.
if i had the tool, i would wrench the shocks down so it sat a little higher, not all the way up though

i definitely think this current setup is smoother, but that has to do some with geometry of a-arms and the elkas vs. works shocks

 

[Fast6hand]

If I wanted to use the banshee spindles I have, and have the asr a arms set up for them, are there any additional parts I would need, or will the remaining blaster parts finish off the assembly?

Herpderplol, do you notice a difference between the smoothness of those 2 set ups? Like, is the wider set up smother when landing from jumps, or simply driving over rough terrain? . My goal is as smooth a ride as possible. Is it really "the wider the better"

I run banshee spindles. I'm using ASR's upper/lower sealed ball joint. Everything else bolts right up. Also, with the wider stance, I found bumps and such pulled the handlebars around more. So I invested in a steering stabilizer.

 

[spin b]

Since I don't race any sanctioned events I don't have to stay under the 50" mark. If I wanted to go with the sms +5 5/8 +1 arms can I use regular rims, or do I have to use the offset rims to have the a arms function properly?

 

[jus_me]

You can use regular.

 

[Herpderplol]

A arms function with any rim granted they are not bent. And the arms adjusted properly.

My rims are probably 3 inches wider than the stock ones