Powder Coating

Nitrotate said:
I've been coating for about 4 years and I started small with a hobby gun which I still use and a toaster oven and worked my way up to a 7'x3'x3' oven. I love doing it but it does take some talent, patience, attention to detail, and LOTS of GOOOD PREP WORK!! Prepwork is the key period... the powder and oven do the rest. Do lots of research and plan well and you will be successful at it.



Actually candies are only a 2-stage process and not really that difficult after you learn the different techniques. You don't have to clear coat over the top of a candy because a candy IS a clearcoat, it's a "color-tinted" clearcoat powder.

If you don't have a gun that has adjustable voltage then you have to be a good hotflocker, which means shooting the clear/candy on while the part is hot.
Click to expand...

Well said... An adjustable gun along with alot of time getting the substrate prepped properly will make or break your results !

Lower voltages or hotflocking is a great way to get into cravasses, and into corners to reduce the "faraday effect" which is where the powder tends to not get into corners well due to the powder being drawn to closer other surfaces.
 
Most definitly guys. You want to spend the good time blasting and preping.
You do not want to PC something over again. A sandblaster wont touch a PC'ed part.
 
no dont get that gun. get the one i posted in already in the thread.

Nitrotate said:
I've been coating for about 4 years and I started small with a hobby gun which I still use and a toaster oven and worked my way up to a 7'x3'x3' oven. I love doing it but it does take some talent, patience, attention to detail, and LOTS of GOOOD PREP WORK!! Prepwork is the key period... the powder and oven do the rest. Do lots of research and plan well and you will be successful at it.



Actually candies are only a 2-stage process and not really that difficult after you learn the different techniques. You don't have to clear coat over the top of a candy because a candy IS a clearcoat, it's a "color-tinted" clearcoat powder.

If you don't have a gun that has adjustable voltage then you have to be a good hotflocker, which means shooting the clear/candy on while the part is hot.
Click to expand...

hum i didnt know that. i guess i was told wrong. the place where i buy my powder from said it was 3 stage, or that he did it 3 stage.. good information. thanks.
 
how is that to pricy? you have to look at it like this. that ebay gun is $100+ shipping for just the gun. then you would still have to buy all the other stuff that comes in the kit. the silicone plugs, the tape and the other items they provide is not cheap. also the eastwood kit come with some basic powder colors.
 
you could get that gun, and waste more than half your powder. i used to use the HF gun and it was good to just learn, but it wastes to much powder. it doesnt fluf the powder well at all and sometimes it just shoots out in clumps. when i used to clean up my filter and spray booth would be covered with extra, now wasted powder. after a a few hours of coating i could easy suck up 1/2 pound of powder with the vacume. with my new gun its not even enough to use a vac for. i just use high pressure air to blow everything off.

the HF gun would be good if you planned on doing a part every month or 2. if you are going to be doing alot of parts in a day, or anything like that, get a differnt gun.
 
As said 10 different times PREP WORK IS KEY! I can spend 30 minutes prepping a dirty item to be Powdered and then it takes 5 minutes to spray! Its just how it goes.

And as pulieb said, a sandblaster wont touch powder but a wire wheel on my air compressor will! :)
 
Dad and I do a little bit of my own stuff, I haven't gotten much done because shortly after we bought it I got buisy having to rebuild engines. I would spend the extra money for the base line eastwood gun if he says it dumps out less. We have the HF gun and it likes to dump, to get rid of that I've had to use only 10psi and the boldest tip, but the bolder tip means wasting more powder. For now we only have a kitchen oven in the garage but we have been looking at an oven big enuff for a frame.

Prep works plays a huge part. One thing I've discovered the hard way is lint off your rags. On several parts I've wiped them down with acetone after a burn off cycle in the oven and lint was left on there which left bad spots in my coating. I've read flashing a propane torch over the part after wiping it down helps to remove the lent, for some reason I have put it through the oven and it was still there.
 
CC&Fabb said:
As said 10 different times PREP WORK IS KEY! I can spend 30 minutes prepping a dirty item to be Powdered and then it takes 5 minutes to spray! Its just how it goes.

And as pulieb said, a sandblaster wont touch powder but a wire wheel on my air compressor will! :)
Click to expand...

Is a wire wheel the only way you know of to remove the powder? I have some a arms I did and decided I wanted a different color on them, most of the coat I removed with a flap disc but still have some areas with coating around the welds.
 
djack12 said:
ohhh man. you could have just powdered right over them. that works. but you can get chemical strippers that remove powder.
Click to expand...

I will try the powdering over on some unimportant parts and see how it works. I've seen the chemical removers but for the price of the remover I could just buy another set of stock a-arms to coat.
 
I spent well over $100 on 5 gal of stripper for removing powder... Worth every penny in my opinion ! If you are going to powder over powder it would be in your best interest to rough up the 1st coat before you do... You will have much better results, and it can be used to smooth out your second by giving you a smoother base to work with.

I have some a arms I did and decided I wanted a different color on them,
Click to expand...

Oh you are doing a arms?? How are you liking that?? Make sure you are VERY careful with those if you have not done them before.

As for the Craftsman gun.. While it will suit the purpose to get the hang of you you will very quickly find yourself wanting more out of it. Soon you will be wanting to upgrade. The Craftsman gun seems to have alot of issues, but does eliminate the need for a compressor since it makes its own air pressure.. If you are looking to do anything more than just a few parts here and there.. I would go with something you will not grow out of so quickly.
 
i just use a rag and then hit it with a propane toarch to burn the extra lint off.

the thing about PCing over previous powder is when you pre-heat the items the old powder get sticky and the new powder just sticks to it. pre heating is key.
 
timsyfz said:
Oh you are doing a arms?? How are you liking that?? Make sure you are VERY careful with those if you have not done them before.
Click to expand...

Well right now I'm just doing a set that has removable ball joints. A guy came buy and bought my blaster stuff a couple days before I was going to do my blaster ones. One the blaster ball joints I was just going to pull off the ball joint boots and mask them.

A problem I've had with the a-arms is that I can't get all of the grease out of the bushings and it likes to put off fumes just after the fill out in the oven. I've tried doing a pre-heat cycle for about 20 minutes and it still puffs out fumes like crazy.
 
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