Polishing your scilencer

AT Blaster

New Member
Mar 8, 2009
352
2
0
44
Indiana
Polishing something isn't that difficult if you're willing to put the time into it. Here is a step by step walk through to help those of you who (like me) can't afford to have something chromed or bought new.

What you need:

1. Sandpaper
- Multiple grits and a bowl of water
2. Rubbing compound
3. Mothers
4. Patience

Sandpaper: Used to sand aluminum to remove small to medium scratches

- 150 grit (for medium to deep scratches)
- 220 grit
- 400 grit
- 1000 grit
- 2000 grit (finishing sand)

The sanding is to remove scratches from your aluminum. Deep scratches may not come out but you can deffinetly make it look better. The depth of your scratches will determine the grit of sandpaper you start with. I actually had to start w/ 80 grit on one side.

Step 1:

Starting with the coarsest sandpaper, you want sand your entire scilencer. Make sure you sand in a straight line w/ light pressure. The more pressure you apply, the deeper the sandpaper will scratch your scilencer. Once completed with the first sand your scilencer will be slightly shinier but you will notice the scratches left by the sand paper. Continue this step until a majority of the imperfections have been removed.

Step 2:

Step 2 is the same as step 1 only you are going to use a finer grade sandpaper and sand in a different direction. You're second sand should intersect the previous at a 90 degree angle. This can be fairly difficult when it comes to the corners or around rivets. Be patient and thourgouh. Continue this step until all of the scratches from step one seem to be gone.

When this step is complete, your scilencer should look very similar to the way it did right after the first sand but the scratches should be slightly shallower.

Step 3:

Once you get done with the first two coats you want to move to the 400+ wet sand grits. Wet your scilencer or the sandpaper it's self and get to work.
Once again, like step 2, you want to sand at a 90 degree angle to your previous sand. Keep your sandpaper wet and keep your scilencer clean. So, from time to time you want to wipe your scilencer down. It will look nasty but no fear, it's supposed too.....

Continue to repeat these steps working through your different levels of sandpaper. With each pass, your scilencer will begin to look smoother and smoother. Remember, each pass is 90 degree to the previous pass. Additionally, once you're into the 400+ sandpaper, KEEP IT WET!

When you get to the 2000 grit your scilencer won't be very shiny but we are about to fix that. While it isn't shiny, it should be smooth and have a clean aluminum look.

Step 4:

Clean your piece w/ soap and water with a soft cloth or chamoise. Make sure you clean it very well. You don't want any aluminum dust left as you begin to polish it.

Step 5:

Grab your rubbing compound an applicator pad or old sock (what I used to use to polish the ole Army boots I:I). What every material you use to apply and clean off the rubbing compound, make sure it's SOFT. When applying the rubbing compopund, do so in a small circular motion using medium pressure. Do small sections, maybe 2 by 2 sections at a time. Once you have worked the compound in for a moment you'll see it turn to a black-ish grey color. Wipe it off and move to the next section. Do this until you have completed the whole scilencer.

Step 6:

Like applying the rubbing compound, you need two peices of cloth to apply your Mothers Polish. You're best bet is to purchase a buffing cloth from any auto parts store or wally world. Work in small circular motion applying light pressure. Once again, only polish a small section at a time and wipe off before it has a change to dry. Your Mothers will start to turn black which is an indicator you need to buff it off. I continue to work it in until it almost looks like the residue is shiny. Once again, complete your entire scilencer and repeat if necessary. At this point your scilencer should have a mirror finish!

Good luck and have fun!I:I
 
good write up!! safes me the time of explaining it to people all the time, now i can link them this..


to add to this....

to keep your shine going, after rides wash mud and dirt/ salt ( if you ride winter and cross roads) off the silencer after every ride.

and every other week to get that shine back up with out all the work, 0000 steel wool and polish, work the polish in with the steel wool, than buff off with a clean cloth, than apply polish on a cloth by hand,

this will keep your silencer lookin a+ all the time, remeber if you maintain it you wont have to work your ass off once a year!!


also for the polishing if you have a power ball or power cone, or a buffer with a foam pad you can save on your fingers a bit by polishing with the power and compound!

you will be shocks at how shiney something gets when you use a buffer
 
Good follow up there Fed! The easiest way to keep a polished item clean is to put a thin layer of vasaline over it. Not too sure it would hold up to the heat so I wouldn't advise it on this application but good to know if you polish anything that doesn't get hot.

Here is a before and after picture of my scilencer.... I finished both sides not, just haven't gotten any new pictures......

0422.jpg

048.jpg

051.jpg

069.jpg

058.jpg
 
looks good... another hard rub with some polish will finish it out nice.. can see a slight haze to it..

i learned that if you wipe it with a damp cloth it will bring out the polish and shine even more
 
Yea, still have a little work to do to make it right. I've been working on it for 3 days now and the wife got a littl upset cause I wasn't spending any time with her. She was watching "A Secret Life' or something like that.... Some dumb ass tv show about teenage girls who get prego in high school.... It's full of bad acting!

Anyways, it's on hold for now. Going to spend the rest of tonight and prolly tomorrow night with her and her only :( (Not the "her" as in my quad but my wife)