Oil
- Thread starter dre2992
- Start date
there's a bunch of theories and favorites.
Maxima Super M has proven itself to me since 1996, i've never had an oil related meltdown.
it's reasonably priced, designed for air cooled engines, comes in injection or mix formula, (get the correct one)
and works in all temperatures.
Maxima Super M has proven itself to me since 1996, i've never had an oil related meltdown.
it's reasonably priced, designed for air cooled engines, comes in injection or mix formula, (get the correct one)
and works in all temperatures.
Ok cool were cn I buy and how hat are the blasters sapoz to get I had mine to 300 and I let it set for a min could that be my jetting I have a fatty on it with the stock jet
Lean jetting will make you run hot. Sounds like what you have going on there. No oil will save an engine from a lean meltdown.
umm how lean will coz the meltdown lack of oil right I'm so lost that dose not make any sence
carb settings ,airleaks and oil ratios can cause it to be lean
there is more to it then that but it is a start
there is more to it then that but it is a start
FMF with the stock jet, is way too lean, the pipe without any other mods calls for a #260 alone.
Post up your mods, someone will give you a ballpark jetting guide to start a plug chop with!
My choice of oil since 1960 ish has been a castor based oil.
The new formulations of Castrol R30 and Maxima 927 are excellent but can only be used in a premix situation.
I am a non conformist and choose to use a heavier than 32:1 ratio that is commonly used for recreational riding as I need to be able to run at wide open throttle for long periods of time.
Any type of 2 stroke oil is ok to use for recreational riding, providing that it is designed for air cooled motorcycles!
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take some time and get a pic of your exhaust, air filter /carb i would love to see this beast,up close
fmf full exhaust stock air filter and stock carb lol not much to seetake some time and get a pic of your exhaust, air filter /carb i would love to see this beast,up close
When asking about mods, we mean modifications to the air flow through the engine. Changing pipe, filter, lid changes air flow through the engine and therefore requires a change in jetting to keep the air-fuel ratio correct. Also temps and elevation come into play. Take that lid off get a foam filter and start with 300 main jet and plug chop to confirm it is correct
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
Also don't buy a jet kit, get individuals 280,290,300
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
Also don't buy a jet kit, get individuals 280,290,300
You need to re jet and then plug chop.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
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