oh the joy...

2smoker85

Member
Dec 13, 2008
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Edgewater MD
20140825_133625.jpg 20140824_071854.jpg Well to make a long story short I broke my trac bar mount when I was on the dyno July 26th with my truck, took it to a local shop and they rewelded it, they also did other things like fry all my electrical components, abs control module, abs pressure sensors tcm/tcs, oil pressure sensors, 02 sensors, best part about it right after they welded it I told them about it said find out everything that's wrong with it, we will take care of it, cool. I plugged my computer in and got some of the codes but was worried not all were coming up so took it to nissan and had them use their can computer and about 50 came up, gave me an estimate of about 1800 bux to fix it but not totally, I had to replace abs control module first then was going to take it back to have it hooked up again, find out what codes were sticking in ecu, so I replaced about 700 worth of parts and was still getting a few codes, so 3 weeks of riding the harley rain or shine the one day i drove the truck thinking i fixed it, nope, it was shifting way off and just not acting like it was suppose to, so sunday on the way home from duty felt a boom in my pedal....this was my worst fear of what happened after.....forgot to add the shop was refusing to fix it, tried to be nice and work with them, nope they said they were not responsible....
 
sorry to hear this Jon,
but how did ecu/sensors/controls cause a mechanical failure like that ?
 
Well the 02 sensors read wideband readings from headers and mid pipes, the tune I had in it was solid, with the 02 sensors not reading correctly and ecu communication being hindered, it was throwing timing at it and caused pre det, dropped a valve and ka boom, everything on my truck is expensive lol, just the engine management uprev is 700 bux then u have someone tune it. I got a new engine for it for 1600 with a 6 Mos warranty only 80k on it gonna swap parts and hopefully my cams aren't f*cked
 
Well sh*t was a lot worse than I thought, broken valve guide, massive holes in the block lol, cams were f*cked, scored to sh*t, end of cam was broken off, so I went with something more aggressive, here's the carnage. I also put an LSD bearings and races in and electric fans, gonna do a direct port 150 shot injection after I get it on the road. Also need a new built Trans which I'll probably do this winter, buy used one and bulletproof it modify fluid pump and change the metals to kevlar.
 

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yet you still keep going with this project ?
lots of wasted $ :(


so I went with something more aggressive, here's the carnage. I also put an LSD bearings and races in and electric fans, gonna do a direct port 150 shot injection.

are these nipponese engines even proven to handle this much power ?
sorry bro, but i predict more carnage :(



btw.......whose hand is this with all the bling on it ?

imagejpeg_2-jpg.12190
 
Well the 02 sensors read wideband readings from headers and mid pipes, the tune I had in it was solid, with the 02 sensors not reading correctly and ecu communication being hindered, it was throwing timing at it and caused pre det, dropped a valve and ka boom, everything on my truck is expensive lol, just the engine management uprev is 700 bux then u have someone tune it. I got a new engine for it for 1600 with a 6 Mos warranty only 80k on it gonna swap parts and hopefully my cams aren't f*cked
If the 02 sensors were not reading correctly then there should have been codes . If not the sensors were not hooked up or they were shut down in the tune. Some shops do that anyway but its like driving blind , the wideband should have shown a lean condition too. Pre - det is most always caused by too much total timing. Ford uses knock sensors to detect and pulls it back. Sounds like the tune was close too the edge , I would find another shop to tune it before I even tried to run N2O. SCT has a switch chip to store up to 5 different custom tunes , I have it in my Mach 1 on N2O. Better luck next time !
 
The guy that tuned it knows what he did and I promise it wasn't the tune because it was around 36 degrees of timing at wot in the tune, now after the incident with. The weld shop there's no telling what it was running because the u 1000 is a comm problem with computers in the truck, it spider webs to all systems, u fry one ur f*cked. the problem started with a fried abs control module, u1000 code and a bunch of others, I was in the process of elimination when it threw the rod, I was going back to the nissan dealer to have their CAN computer hooked up to it after I replaced abs module but threw the rod on a Sunday and I was dropping it off monday.
Now what I believe happened was it Fried all the 02 sensors and the knock sensors which weren't telling the ecu there was pre det and if the 02 sensors aren't sending the right readings or are all over the place, that's how sh*t like thus happens, it's all speculation at the moment but I'll put my money it was running lean and over to degrees of timing
which in turn led to where I'm at now, I won't know the extent to the electrical till I get a new engine in it and fire it up nut I'll be tearing the old engine down to at least see what I can find out. The possibilities are endless with these computers and electronics on vehicles now.
 
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That's my buddies wife's hand

I'm still plugging at it, I'm about at my wth end with it and may buy a chevy rcsb around my house a guy has for sale and throw a turbo on it. Our engines can hold 500-600 hp, our trans is the weak point which I'm going to rebuild anyways with exedy and raysbestos clutches and have the fluid pump modified, valve body replaced, about 3 grand to do but will hold the nitrous which the engine will hold a 150 shot safely
 
Awk the vk56 actually just won the formula drift championship in chris forsbergs Z, he's running a dry nitrous kit, he revs his well into 10k rpms, engines are strong, parts are strong, except our rod bearings, they're weak sh*t, but I have a fix for it that me and a buddy came up with.


img_0214-jpg.12189


yet you still keep going with this project ?
lots of wasted $ :(




are these nipponese engines even proven to handle this much power ?
sorry bro, but i predict more carnage :(



btw.......whose hand is this with all the bling on it ?

imagejpeg_2-jpg.12190
[/QUOTE]
 
To me it's not wasted money, everyone builds chevy dodge and ford's so I wanted to do something different, NA to NA there was not a truck around that could touch mine, being street racing, not drag.

So here is where it is now,

I have a donor engine I got for 600 bux and I had a crank sent to the machine shop to have it machined down 20 thousandths to accept forged rods, this is not a normal setup as the rods for the vk56 are 2500 bux, I wasn't gonna spend 10k on an engine and still have sh*t bearings so we figured out a way to use chevy forged rods which cost 500 for a set of 8, a race bearing for it so we don't need to use stock, move the piston up on the rod to slow it down, compression around 1:1, valves to inconel to keep temps down, the engine will be capable of 1100 hp and 10k rpms but i will be around 600 as the trans will max out at 700 fully rebuilt, Here is a break down of parts I'm using on the truck.

New timing chain, slack guides, chain tensioners, oil pump, all new seals, water pump, head gaskets, timing gears

Nitrous express 90mm plate kit(it has a ls7 90mm tb on it) up to 400 shot(I will never shoot that) progressive controller, purge kit, bottle warmer.
C8 cams from jwt with new springs to allow to go into higher rpms
Trans temp water coolant temp and wideband 02 gauges to monitor
Custom built drop spindles
drop shackles in the rear
Level 10 rebuild trans with bigger trans pan
Custom trans and motor mounts,

There's more I'm sure, when it's done I'll post some vids and pics of it, gotta do break in on engine give it 2k miles or so before I go smashing on it, hopefully first week of december I'll have it back!
 
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