Octane rating

Blaaster

Moderator
Staff member
Technician
Jul 18, 2011
15,384
1,120
165
eastern australia
Last edited:
ive never ran 89 octane gas in anything i have owned. only 93 and above. i did havea bike i had to run on race gas. as for float level, i always kept them at fatory settings. but, with the gas now a days, having so much water it it, i would guess there might need to be differejt float levels looked at. cause non ethinal gas may cause the floats to act different as it will be heavier than ethinal gas. the ethinal may make the float sit higher, or float higher in the bowl. the best way to know for sure would do a visual float check.
 
If you set float with clear tube it wont matter
And that is the answer to the problem!

But you may have to pull the bowl off numerous times to achieve the result.

When you buy race gas do you know what the octane rating is, many suppliers cannot tell you because they just do not know.

The guy I was talking to that was buying race fuel said that he asked what the octane rating was and was told that they were unsure.

There are so many blends they just do not know what they are selling.
 
Last edited:
I have ran race gas for years and have never adjusted float heights for the change. I can see if you were drawing a lot of fuel trying to adjust them to try and cheat the volume of the bowl but even then there is not much to get out of it. At that point it is time for a larger volume bowl or a fuel pump. I run vp fuel and they will tell you exactly what the octane rating is.I have never seen vp not be able to tell you the octane rating.No ethanol junk in race fuel either and free power. imo
 
If you buy race gas from a pump you dont know what you are getting. If you buy race gas from the bike shop in a 5 gallon can then you are probably getting what you payed for!
 
If you ask the retard working at Purvis Brothers gas station eating monkey bread, what octane is you race gas, hey will tell you, Daaaa race gas?????? look at sticker! Then you like, i can only see half of the sticker. lol:confused:
 
I've had some dealings with some exotic gas blends before. To make it simple, the lighter the fuel and higher the requirement, the faster the floats should work. That's a bit of oversimplification, but it does work like that from what I've seen.

As for ethanol, I'm all for it. I had a very rare chance to watch a guy tune a ProEFI standalone ECU that uses a Ford ECO-Boost fuel sensor in the tank to measure ethanol and gas levels. He did a full tune on Ethanol and a full tune on Gas. The ECU would account for different levels by merging the 2 maps together to get the AFRs and ignition right. After seeing just how differently the engine acted on both fuels and hearing some of his theories, I learned quite a bit.

I don't think that ethanol gas is bad at all. It has higher anti-detonation resistance than gas, but requires much lower AFRs than gas. When you have a 10% ethanol mix, it equates to running at 96% of the original fuel volume required for a proper AFR. That isn't enough to have to set floats, but it is enough to have to re-jet. That's about the same as running 25:1 gas/oil. Actually, running 10% ethanol gas makes an engine run leaner than switching from 40:1 to 20:1. I'll have to start mentioning that in jetting recommendations.

Some people say that if you leave mixed gas sitting that has ethanol in it that the oil will separate after a few days. I tried it and the only thing I could notice is that after a week, the top and bottom halves were a slightly different shade in the glass container. If anyone has ever opened their gas tank while putting along, you'll see why keeping the gas mixed isn't a concern when it doesn't separate that much.

I'll get back on topic now. As for floats, I've never never had to re-set them on anything that I've built, but I don't build 70hp machines either.

Now if you get into specific weights and their relation to the octane rating (which isn't linear, but suggestive), it does make the mind boggle that some tuning company, who's name I can't recall, did a test on some 93 pump gas and it came back at 108 RON! They had a problem with tuning cars and customers coming back with their cars in safe mode because the knock sensors went haywire and threw codes. In that scenario, it does make you wonder.

IMO, specific weights don't really come into play unless you're already at the point of out-flowing your system as a whole. By the time you get to that point, a difference in specific weight of .75 and .72 will be the concern of only those who want to stay with the current setup for whatever reason.

Within the scope of what I currently deal with, it all boils down to the super-simple technique of plug chopping.
 
Also take note that the fuels that are used for rally purposes have a higher specific gravity. Though not much difference for applications where a fuel pump is used, I bet it would help with keeping within the capabilities of a nearly maxed out fuel system.