nitro r/c

blasterboy32

blasterboy32

New Member
Jan 9, 2012
446
1
18
harrisburg, pennsylvania
Anybody else on here into nitro RC? I just got into the hobby yesterday. I bought a traxxas rustler 2.5 for $125 is that a good deal? It can with a bunch of other parts and tools and it has someaftermarket parts. I already broke a tie rod and whatever the name of things are that take place of upper a arms. I guess I'm gonna have to get metal ends for these and all the others. I have a few questions though. It came with 20% nitro fuel. Is that the right stuff to run in it? Its pull start so I have to use the glow plug ignited. Should it start without the glow plug ignited after its warmed up or do I have to use it every time? How do I adjust the idle? I was using the throttle trim knob on the controller but wasn't sure if that's the right way to do it. What does the screw that's by the motor do? It kinda looks like an air screw. Thanks in advance for any help as I'm new to this and really have no idea what I'm doing.
 
20% nitro is fine as long as it's "car" fuel with lots of oil.

Methanol degrades explosively upon contact with hot platinum (the material the glowplug coil is made out of) and creates the "spark" once the engine's running. Unfortunately, it requires that the platinum be heated before it'll do so. basically, you'll need the glow plug igniter (battery) every time you want to start the engine. you MIGHT get lucky and have it start hot without the glowplug igniter but it's unlikely.

The idle is adjustable by the length (clevis to clevis) of the pushrod going from the servo to the carburetor or on the remote. Both basically do the same thing as long as neither is limiting your maximum throttle trim.

The screw on the carburetor is a mixture screw. It directly adjusts the Air/Fuel Ratio. AFR on a nitro burning motor is absolutely critical as predetonation will scar the sleeve in a jiff. I usually adjust mine until the run at the highest possible rpm at WOT using the fuel screw and then adjust it richer until it starts to "bobble" and then back off to just leaner than that. I'm as rich as possible while not sacrificing any power. It results in more splooge but (I believe) keeps engines alive longer.

I have a Nitro tunnel hull outboard engine and a .40 thunder tiger trainer.
 
In my years of rc I've never had a glow plug motor start without the igniter.
I've tried many times though lol
 
OK thanks guys. So which way do I turn the screw to richen the mixture? And I richen it until it bobbles at wot. I think I know what bobble means. So just trial and error basically until it runs the best? Is that what you're trying to say
 
$125 for a full car, aftermarket parts and glow plugs aint to bad.

i used to have a reddog, redcar redpower. whatever it was...redcat im thinking. tsunami.

she was fast, but i somehow busted the idle screw, and kind of got out of nitro (was a summer thing around here, everyone had one then got out of it).

bought it for err..$120. sold it for $200.

fun little cars when you mod them right though....

have you seen the youtube video where that girl gets owned by one on a bike track?
 
Paulie B said:
In my years of rc I've never had a glow plug motor start without the igniter.
I've tried many times though lol
Click to expand...

Airplane using a power starter will SOMETIMES fire up if all you did was run out of fuel and land immediately to refill. The head's still hot enough I guess.

I can't see that happening with a pull start engine.... I don't blame ya for trying though! I:I
 
Paulie B said:
In my years of rc I've never had a glow plug motor start without the igniter.
I've tried many times though lol
Click to expand...

Ive also done that many time durring races lol... After a minute Im just like... well DUH! haha
Ive been racing seince kindergarden, Im 16 so about 11 or so years give or take. Really fun hobby!
 
I can tell you that the boat, even though it is started with the same electric motor, will NOT refire without the igniter. It runs so much cooler because it's pumping water around the head?

Which is a real PITA because I built a scale motor cover for it and I have to uncover a panel to get the igniter on it.
 
I have had a few nitro r/c, aquacraft airboat, had 2 of them, r/c sig citabrea i build and a tower hobbies pt-60. then last year had a few 4x4 nitro tamiya crushers.

things, to look for. seems i was seeing a new glow plug every month. I always ran them a little rich tho. better to be safe then sorrry.

gearing was a issue, meaning mine has 2 speed auto tranny and I was having to adjust it, when i went from the grass / yard to pavement.

everything seems to come loose all the time on them. nuts, bolts, loose the air screw out of them. lol.

in is lean and out is rich. dont make adjustments more than a 1/16th at a time. seemeds like that worked best for me, small turns, cuz really easy to over adjust and spend hours trying to get it right again.

Sporty
 
OK I'm gonna spend some time on it tomorrow getting it tuned.

What's this about adjusting the transmission depending on terrain? Does it make it perform better?

I also noticed that stuff comes loose a lot. My exhaust already fell off and a bunch of other things were loose but I put loctite on them now.

What's the proper procedure for starting it? I've heard about putting your finder on the exhaust before you start it to prime it. Is that right? Any other things besides turning the car and controller on then put the igniter on and pull?
 
You need to fill the tank with fuel and then put your finger on the exhaust and pull the starter cord. You'll see the fuel start up the line and go to the carb. Make sure you prime it slowly so that you don't pick up too many air bubbles. The line filled with airbubbles means that the "ingition source" and "fuel source" is going to be coming in broken instead of constant.

Once you've got the fuel to the carburetor, you want to install the glow plug igniter onto the glow plug and give it about 3 seconds to fully warm up (they usually are hot instantly but some glowplugs are cooler than others and you don't want to flood an engine out because you were trying to crank it while the glowplug was getting warm :p). Once it's ready, hold the chassis down as tight as you can and pull on the cord with sharp, quick pulls. You need to turn that motor over relatively quickly in order to get it up to speed.

They generally sputter a few times before they actually come to life. You'll be able to tell the difference. A dull "thud" when you pull means that it didn't try to ignite. A sharp "crack" but not running once you stopped pulling means it fired but couldn't stay running. If it does it time and time again and won't start that means you're too lean ( I believe, been a while since I've played with the plane!).

If it starts and immediately withers down and is spraying liquid everywhere, that means you're too rich. The adjustment screw is quite particular too. Three of four clicks can be the total range that the engine may run at. 2 clicks forward and it's too lean to run, 2 clicks back and it's too rich to run at full RPM. My experience is that a nitro engine will still run rich, it'll just "bubble" at WOT instead of clearing out and screaming.
 
ive always ran 20% in mine. 10% is WAY to rich, and runs horrible. 30% is too high. ur not racing. make sure u choose a brand and % nitro, and stick with it, and tune the carb to it. i belive the idle is the small scre on the carb. there should be 3. high, low, and idle. make sure u tune it, and also if u want good preformace, and not running lean, u have to adjust the high speed needle every time u run it. once u get to know how it works, it literaly took me 1 min to do it. as far as the inginghter, nitro engines use somehting called a "glow plug" unlike a spark plug that spaks, a glow plug has a "spring"inside that glows RED hot to inginate the fuel. so when u shut the engine off, it cools down, and dosent glow anymore. a perfectly tuned engine, once u shut it off, it should NOT start up again without the inginator. if it does, ur running lean. i would get and onboard temp guage. makes life SOOOOO much eaiser. but yea. clean filter every run, clean engine every run, make monitor the temp all the time, and u will have an engine last you a Very long time! ive owned my rc for like 3 years, and never thought twice about needing a new motor. same thing when i upgraded from the pro.15 to the 2.5 motor u have. lasted forever! and yest that waas a good deal!
 
Quadrider10 said:
ive always ran 20% in mine. 10% is WAY to rich, and runs horrible. 30% is too high. ur not racing. make sure u choose a brand and % nitro, and stick with it, and tune the carb to it. i belive the idle is the small scre on the carb. there should be 3. high, low, and idle. make sure u tune it, and also if u want good preformace, and not running lean, u have to adjust the high speed needle every time u run it. once u get to know how it works, it literaly took me 1 min to do it. as far as the inginghter, nitro engines use somehting called a "glow plug" unlike a spark plug that spaks, a glow plug has a "spring"inside that glows RED hot to inginate the fuel. so when u shut the engine off, it cools down, and dosent glow anymore. a perfectly tuned engine, once u shut it off, it should NOT start up again without the inginator. if it does, ur running lean. i would get and onboard temp guage. makes life SOOOOO much eaiser. but yea. clean filter every run, clean engine every run, make monitor the temp all the time, and u will have an engine last you a Very long time! ive owned my rc for like 3 years, and never thought twice about needing a new motor. same thing when i upgraded from the pro.15 to the 2.5 motor u have. lasted forever! and yest that waas a good deal!
Click to expand...

i only have one screw and its right where the fuel hose goes into the carb. i didnt see multiple screws but ill check closer tomorrw
 
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