Newbie in FL

Feb 6, 2014
116
5
54
42
Florida
Hey Guys

Just thought I would say hey and thanks. I have been reading threads on here for a few weeks just bought a 97 blaster for my son bone stock. This is my 1st blaster. I have a DVX 400 and a polaris Trail Blazer for the wife. My son had a raptor 90 but we just upgraded him to the blaster. I love it so far and so does he. Looking to get a little more out of it being stock I really don't feel a powerband at all. I even have a hard time getting the fronts to come up.
 
Welcome :D

A nice pipe will give you the powerband you are looking for. FMF would be a great starters, but depending on where you want the power, any pipe
 
Welcome to the forum. Have you leak tested and compression tested the motor? If your quad has low compression it will perform poorly. Leak testing is vital to the life of your motor.
 
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Welcome to the forum. Have you leak tested and compression tested the motor? If your quad has low compression it will perform poorly. Leak testing is vital to the life of your motor.


I did leak test and it holds 7 psi no problem. I did have a question about plug shopping. I read how to do it with running WOT and then looking at the plug but not sure after that. Do you actually cut the plug or change plugs is this something I would need to do? I am buying a FMF pipe with power core. Do I just need to rejet or do I need to plug chop also? If it is just rejet does anyone know what jets I should go to its a stock carb.
 
FMF pipe only = #260 main jet. Needle in middle slot, pilot #32.5.
Aftermarket air filter + 1 or 2 sizes on main.
Air box lid off + 2 sizes on main.
32:1 mix + 1 size main.
All same needle and pilot.

It is advisable to plug chop whenever changing jets as conditions vary.



Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
 
FMF pipe only = #260 main jet. Needle in middle slot, pilot #32.5.
Aftermarket air filter + 1 or 2 sizes on main.
Air box lid off + 2 sizes on main.
32:1 mix + 1 size main.
All same needle and pilot.

It is advisable to plug chop whenever changing jets as conditions vary.



Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

This makes perfect senses to me now thanks so much for the reply. This is basically a great way to find out if you are jetted right. I will do this as soon as I get the new pipe put on and have done a leakdown test.
 
Cold weather also requires increasing your main jet size. The quad should have come with a 230 or 240 stock depending on the location it was bought. The 32.5 pilot is the stock size and does not need to be fooled with. The needle setting from the factory is also set in the middle right where you need it.

Having the quad jetted correctly will increase to life of the motor, as well as have it a peak performance.
 
Welcome from St. Lucie! No better place for Blaster info, tips/tricks , mods and pretty much anything you can think of. Hope you get it scootin to your desire. Where abouts are ya in Fl if you dont mind me asking