I just had my motor rebuilt and put on a block off kit and was wondering what mixture i should run all the time even when breaking it in
what is the regular mixture?
what is the regular mixture?
new rebuild what gas mixture to run?
- Thread starter hoerter2158
- Start date
The oil injection that comes with the blasters runs 20/1 i believe. Most people run 32/1 when they get the block off kit, but for braking it in you may want to run it a little richer, say 40/1. Although you really don't have to.
Hmmmmm?
Now this may be way out there...
I own a few chain saws, 'em be 2 strokes. My bestest favorite wood nukin' monster is Stihl 460. She has some funky sh*t on the cyl. walls that *****
****
NEEDS, REQUIRES, CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT, WILL DIE IF NOT DONE
the absolute right gas oil mixture.
You all probably know metal has a grain and is porous. Well Stihl took it one step farther and textured it's cyl. walls. This does at least two things;
1. When broken in with proper oil, will actually withstand improper or lean mix for few tanks of gas.
2.When it goes bad it's all bad.
While I see the cyl. wall pattern is not like that, does exper. tell us that there is a mix that is "safe"? I am of the school that more oil is less likely to kill a motor. On the other hand the leanest mix makes the most nuts. Then you get too lean and bang, days over.
Anyone think additives ike Slick 50 or whatever may help?
Just fishing for info here.
BTW.
You know the diff. between a vitamin and a horemone?
You can't make a vitamin...Think about it!
Benny Hill at his best!! =))
I'm outta here!!
A
Now this may be way out there...
I own a few chain saws, 'em be 2 strokes. My bestest favorite wood nukin' monster is Stihl 460. She has some funky sh*t on the cyl. walls that *****
****
NEEDS, REQUIRES, CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT, WILL DIE IF NOT DONE
the absolute right gas oil mixture.
You all probably know metal has a grain and is porous. Well Stihl took it one step farther and textured it's cyl. walls. This does at least two things;
1. When broken in with proper oil, will actually withstand improper or lean mix for few tanks of gas.
2.When it goes bad it's all bad.
While I see the cyl. wall pattern is not like that, does exper. tell us that there is a mix that is "safe"? I am of the school that more oil is less likely to kill a motor. On the other hand the leanest mix makes the most nuts. Then you get too lean and bang, days over.
Anyone think additives ike Slick 50 or whatever may help?
Just fishing for info here.
BTW.
You know the diff. between a vitamin and a horemone?
You can't make a vitamin...Think about it!
Benny Hill at his best!! =))
I'm outta here!!
A
Check this out
This car is what I am building, it has about 650 HP. That's about 81hp a jug or about 3 times the mule's per piston over the Blaster. Put it in sand and even with paddles, my sh*t digs a hole and needs a tow.
It's a system.
On the street, I can chain 8 Blaster to the rear bumper and still smoke most 250 quads or below.
I still am wondering about the most expensive upgrade. The suspension. It's critical on many levels. It's also the most pricey.
What does one get out of 12K worth of shocks?
Does that extended swing arm add what?
Think about it, they all do things and getting them to work together is the prize.
Rock on!!!!!!!!:-D
" " Well sh*t, copy paste didn't work, never the f*ck mind.
This car is what I am building, it has about 650 HP. That's about 81hp a jug or about 3 times the mule's per piston over the Blaster. Put it in sand and even with paddles, my sh*t digs a hole and needs a tow.
It's a system.
On the street, I can chain 8 Blaster to the rear bumper and still smoke most 250 quads or below.
I still am wondering about the most expensive upgrade. The suspension. It's critical on many levels. It's also the most pricey.
What does one get out of 12K worth of shocks?
Does that extended swing arm add what?
Think about it, they all do things and getting them to work together is the prize.
Rock on!!!!!!!!:-D
" " Well sh*t, copy paste didn't work, never the f*ck mind.
Last edited:
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