New Member from Ireland

[BrianC1]

Hi, new to the forum, just purchased a blue 2003 Blaster last night. It's for my girlfriend as I've already got a KFX400 myself. I got it at a bargain 750e (very cheap in Ireland), few things need to be sorted on it here's the list I plan:
1. 5" Spacers on the Rear (Very tippy compared to my widened KFX)
2. New Front Bumper, old one is all dented, chipped and starting to rust
3. New ignition switch, currently bypasses straight onto killswitch
4. Rear Tires, old ones are just about fully worn
5. Remove and Powder Coat front A-Arms, bike was ran on beaches and front arms got the brunt of the salty conditions
6. Handlebars grips, missing one as it stands
7. Front Widening Kit along with YFZ450 shocks
8. Pipe and Jet it, standard exhaust at the moment
9. Good service including pads all round, and greasing
10. Chain needs to checked and tightened I suspect, bit slack

But the first thing I want to do is check the compression and top end condition. I've ordered a compression tester and was hoping it would be here before buying. The bike was stone cold on arrival and fired up on the first kick so that's a good sign at least, the guy said the head gasket was just done on the bike, and the guy that done it mentioned the the bike had been bored out, need to check this myself this weekend hopefully.

Now to my 'dumb' questions:

1. The bike needs the choke pulled out 'fully' (I have to physically hold it) and held with a bit of throttle until warm? Is this normal?
2. The clutch biting point is very far down the lever, lever is nearly fully released before biting? Also the bike needs a decent bit of throttle to take of in first otherwise it'll die (maybe just not used to it compared to the KFX)

Is there anything I should specifically do before bringing it out properly, I don't think the bike would of been maintained to the highest standards etc.

 

[MURPH]

my stock carbs choke lever wouldn't stay out either and I had to do the same thing its no big deal as far as the clutch you could adjust it at the lever to make it so as it will bite sooner if that doesn't work you will need a clutch rebuild

 

[BrianC1]

my stock carbs choke lever wouldn't stay out either and I had to do the same thing its no big deal as far as the clutch you could adjust it at the lever to make it so as it will bite sooner if that doesn't work you will need a clutch rebuild

Thanks for the info, ye I've downloaded a manual and plan on adjusting the clutch this evening, hopefully it'll sort it. Even with the choke fully on should the bike need constant throttle? I'll have a look at the idle speed tonight and see. I've not driven it properly yet, only up to 3rd gear and since the owner didn't really know a thing about the bike I wanna make sure it's jetted properly , I forgot to mention it has a K&N filter also (which gives cause to check jetting), and the autolube system is removed too

 

[MURPH]

if it isn't staying running you need to adjust the idle or its too rich on jetting

 

[tbrooks]

Hi there, and welcome!

The key switch and kill switch perform the same function, connect to gound, you can have one or the other or both. They are simply unhooked to bypass. The keyswitch you get should have continuity in the off position/no connection when on position.

The stock a-arms cannot be pc'd as the ball joints are not removable and will melt. If you have aftermarket a-arms, this is not a problem

Before any disassembly a leaktest should be performed, and after reassembly, it should be performed again. Look around there is lots of talk on it around here.

The choke being held is a standard problem on these carbs. There is a little metal c clip that is under the rubber seal. This gets worn and will no longer grip the indents on the rod of the choke lever. I was able to replace mine with a piece of paper clip, bent correctly, and it has been working for me. Most people just get used to holding it or get a new choke assembly, a clothespin works as a holder as well.

I hope it all goes well for you! Read up on leaktesting, it is highly important for 2-strokes. Most people don't believe this until their piston melts. Anymore questions and we will be glad to help!

 

[BrianC1]

Hi there, and welcome!

The key switch and kill switch perform the same function, connect to gound, you can have one or the other or both. They are simply unhooked to bypass. The keyswitch you get should have continuity in the off position/no connection when on position.

The stock a-arms cannot be pc'd as the ball joints are not removable and will melt. If you have aftermarket a-arms, this is not a problem

Before any disassembly a leaktest should be performed, and after reassembly, it should be performed again. Look around there is lots of talk on it around here.

The choke being held is a standard problem on these carbs. There is a little metal c clip that is under the rubber seal. This gets worn and will no longer grip the indents on the rod of the choke lever. I was able to replace mine with a piece of paper clip, bent correctly, and it has been working for me. Most people just get used to holding it or get a new choke assembly, a clothespin works as a holder as well.

I hope it all goes well for you! Read up on leaktesting, it is highly important for 2-strokes. Most people don't believe this until their piston melts. Anymore questions and we will be glad to help!

Thanks for the great info, especially on the A Arms, looks like I'll have to spray them, although shotblasting/sandblasting is going to be a problem now, i'll just try protecting the ball joints and avoiding them with the gun. I'm looking into purchasing a leaktest kit, any recommendations? And regards the choke, once it's not a major problem I don't mind holding it

 

[BrianC1]

if it isn't staying running you need to adjust the idle or its too rich on jetting

I'll check the idle later, it's also a bit smokey on cold start, I know a 2-stroke will generally be more smokey than a 4 stroke, i think I'll empty the gas tank and mix my own fuel, the guy just seemed to be guessing his mix to be honest

 

[BrianC1]

Some photos of my KFX400, I'll try get some decent photos of the Blaster soon

 

[bansheedave]

Welcome to the forum. You are getting some great advice. Nice looking kawasaki. My favorite brand by the way now let's see some blaster pics.

 

[harley1-5]

nice kawi

 

[BrianC1]

Photos as promised you can see some of the parts that need work etc.

 

[speedyslyder]

welcome. nice kfx
the blaster will be fun to clean up

 

[BrianC1]

welcome. nice kfx
the blaster will be fun to clean up

Thanks Yes should be a nice little project alright

 

[BrianC1]

What's the best way to upload videos? I've taken a video of the bike running and wanna see your opinions, does it sound right etc. Not too familiar with 2 strokes to be honest

 

[speedyslyder]

youtube
tinypic
photobucket

youtube will take the longest but well worth it
you need to copy the link then paste it.
says get video url

 

[BrianC1]

There's a youtube video of the bike running, anyone with a trained ear tell me if it sounds ok?

 

[speedyslyder]

sounds ok i would say.others will give opinions. im not sure how the carb is setup up with/airscrew and idle.but it looks all stock quad good building ground
i was trying to look at the carb in video/surprisingly it looked compltey all there
including oem clamps on the boots.

 

[BrianC1]

sounds ok i would say.others will give opinions. im not sure how the carb is setup up with/airscrew and idle.but it looks all stock quad good building ground
i was trying to look at the carb in video/surprisingly it looked compltey all there
including oem clamps on the boots.

Ye the quad is very straight and original, only thing modified are auto-oiling system is removed, and apparently the cylinder is bored, probably because it had to be due to wear as opposed to for an upgrade. Once I put some $$$ into it I should have a nice straight quad to compliment the KFX on rides

 

[speedyslyder]

make sure they capped off the oil injection nipple on kickstarter side of carb
or it will suck in unwanted air/and DIRT.

 

[BrianC1]

make sure they capped off the oil injection nipple on kickstarter side of carb
or it will suck in unwanted air/and DIRT.
View attachment 14548

Thanks I'll check that out tomorrow