Hey i recently got a 94 blaster in a trade. I cant seem to figure out why it isnt getting spark. I was told it needed a ignition coil so i replaced it, and ive been reading the haynes shop manual on it on how to fix it but havent had time to do things other then cleaning the contacts in the kill switch and checking if the cdi is dead but its fine. You guys have any thoughts? I would really appreciate the help and would love to ride it as its my first quad.
New guy needing help
- Thread starter Mikeroc283
- Start date
have you tried a new plug?
start out with using a test light on the positive lead for the ignition coil, kick the bike and see if the light comes on in sync with the piston in the cylinder.
this will tell you if you have power to the coil, then you can start working backwards from there.
start out with using a test light on the positive lead for the ignition coil, kick the bike and see if the light comes on in sync with the piston in the cylinder.
this will tell you if you have power to the coil, then you can start working backwards from there.
Spark plug is new watched it go in when i picked it up. Don't have a test light but i have a multimeter i grabbed earlier to test other stuff on it like the manual said.
welcome aboard man, i hate electrical problems!! dont give up though, there are guys here that can talk you thru anything. I:I
test the coil set your multimeter to ohms place one lead in the spark plug cap and the other on the other wire of the coil. it should read between 13 and 15 ohms.
check all of your connections for the stator, to check to see if the ignition switch is bad just unplug the ignition switch and kick it over. some years dont have a connector for the ignition switch so you may have to snip the wires then reconnect them once you have eliminated the ignition switch as the problem.
also check the magneto to be sure the woodruff key has not sheared causing a no spark issue.
make sure the magneto turns with the crank.
check all of your connections for the stator, to check to see if the ignition switch is bad just unplug the ignition switch and kick it over. some years dont have a connector for the ignition switch so you may have to snip the wires then reconnect them once you have eliminated the ignition switch as the problem.
also check the magneto to be sure the woodruff key has not sheared causing a no spark issue.
make sure the magneto turns with the crank.
originnal posted by braaptor < i think
Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Just checked the new and old coils. New is right around 15 ohms, old wont give a clear reading it just jumps around from 6 to 9 ohms.
If the coils getting fire then it could be your plug cap i've had alot of trouble with mine make sure its connected good it just unscrews from the plug wire
Plug isnt getting enough power to create a spark. Cap is fine, i had to add one to the new coil it didnt come with one.
Welcome, you have to take the cover off the shifter side of the engine and remove the flywheel with a flywheel puller.
Talked to the kid i got it from earlier. Said it use to take him around half an hour to an hour to get it to start.
Just spend half an hour trying to start it with no luck still. Dont have a yamaha flywheel puller to check the stator or woodruff key. Anyone on this site around my area that could help me?
A regular automotive puller will work, if you don't have one you can get one at an auto parts place w/a deposit, then bring it back and get your deposit back, so it ends up being free. Are you positive it's a spark issue? Did you try putting some gas in the spark plug hole to see if it would fire? Might not be getting gas? Just don't want you to take anything apart you don't have to!
I've put a spark plug on the wire while it was hanging near metal to get a spark to show but nothing. It should give spark near metal but it doesn't. I got it in a trade for an xbox 360 so any money going into it is worth it to get it going since I didn't pay anything for it.
Cleaned the top of the plug because the hole was caked with dirt and put gas in the plug hole. Neither had any effect on it trying to starting. Still haven't taken the side off to check the stator or woodruff key. How is it that id check the stator to be in working condition?
