New Blaster, a few questions.

SaiyanPrince

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Jan 10, 2016
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I just bought my first blaster that was supposedly blown engine... The guy I bought it from obviously had no idea about anything on it... Got it for $200 and it only needed a woodruff key. Changed that and it kicked first try. Its my first ATV so took me a while to get used to driving it... Now 3 weeks later and almost daily driving it, I have a few problems and questions...

The very limited things I know as fact about the blaster.
TORS deleted
Oil injection deleted.
New Oil in transmission
Clean and adjusted Carb
New plug
drained old gas and filled with premium 32:1
What I think is aftermarket pipe and carb.

No idea what other mods are on it... It has a 280 main jet in the carb which I have cleaned and set float level on. Originally it had the vent hoses capped off and was leaking fuel constantly...

Problems:
Its getting hard if not impossible to kick on.. My procedure that was working... Turn ignition off... Pull choke out... kick it twice.. Turn Ignition on kick it once... Warm up pull choke out and that was it...
Now basically just kick it like mad with or with out throttle very hard to get it to start... IS getting harder every time i drive it.

When I got it seemed to be very overfilled with some blue oil in the transmission case... The Carb was capped off on the nipples on both side....

As of Today i could not get it started.... Took me fooooorever and it finally kicked over, was smoking like mad, thought maybe i loaded it up with fuel trying to start it.... Pushed choke in and it revved out to the moon.... Noticed when it started revving that it was bubbling out what seems to be fuel from where the clutch goes into the case on left side? Also if i cover teh nipple on right side of case facing upwards with my finger the revs lowered a small amount... Also took the oil fill cap off while it was puttering around and it also started to rev higher with the cap off.
 
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I am reading up on the right side crank seal.... I am thinking this is my issue... The gas smelling oil.... The smoke... The revving out with no choke. Also from what i reading it seems that a 280 jet is kinda big for a blaster? Most ppl i see saying that they are using 250 260 for mildly modded blaster? It was running for what i thought was like a beast! If its been limping i cant wait to feel her running right!
 
you need to do a leakdown test to figure out where it's sucking in the air, may be right side crank seal ?

280 is not too large for an aftermarket pipe, but we need to know which pipe to suggest a main jet range.
and plug chops will need to be done to determine exactly what main jet.

read these threads..............


leakdown tests (scroll down for vids)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/

testers
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leakdown-testers.55015/

tuning the airscrew
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

what jets
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/what-jets-are-you-using.28981/

plug chops
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/

tuning the airscrew
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
 
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Thank you for all the good reading! I tore the top end off to try and figure out what is on this blaster. Along the way found a missing head bolt... head gasket on upside down and sideways.... There is nothing sealing the top of carb where throttle cable goes in... and the base plate bolt near the clutch was loose... Is there a way to tell if my reeds and exhasut pipe is stock or not? The pipe looks black and well... stock tho im not positive. Im thinking the owner was putting a 280 jet in to compensate for leaks instead of fixing them. Patiently waiting to purchase pressure tester to check the bottom end.
 
32:1 of not sure name off my head but its aircooled 2 stroke oil from local motosport shop... I fixed all the problems listed above and kicked it once to check and first damn kick started right up... Smoked for 5 minutes then almost no smoke at idle. Also no more free revving... Tho if I throttle it up its slow to come back to idle. I noticed however if I plug the case vent with my finger it returns to idle normally... Is it supposed to have vacuum there?
 
Yeah thats what i thought .... Just making sure dont think ill kick it again tell I leak test it... Tho im assuming it needs the crank seal and will order full set and leakdown test asap! Ty for the moral support... Tearing it down was extra simple and fun just needed to know people had my back!
Cheers!
 
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Well I saw a new Motosport shop in town... Stopped in bam yamaha heaven... Picked up some yamalube and bond.. A full top end gasket and both crank seals and a seal for the clutch mechanism!!!!! $24 for the seals and 20$ fer the bag of gaskets!!! Going to hopefully do gaskets tonight and the seals tomorrow... Its literally brand new not even 20 minutes on the oil but o well all new oil getting put back in
 
Thanks for the links to the videos dude helped a ton!! I would of ended up taking it back apart for sure if not for the video! All new gaskets and seals both sides and held a few psi .... Thing runs great and getting no vacuum at the trans vent!!! Old seal was mostly gone...... Stator side seemed fine o well changed it too..... The exhaust side stud on the jug are stripped out and had been replaced with redneck disaster... For the life of me I cant get the exhaust to seal..... The before mentioned redneck had jammed a socket on a bolt and used that to hold the exhaust on ..... I filled the stripped hole with copper wire and got it to bite down hard enough to almost seal it... almost... Drove it around the yard a few cautious times and goodness its running rich now... Still smoking a lil I assume is from being run so rich, and the little exhaust leak not burning all the fuel.
 
gotta get that exhaust to seal, it can suck in air there during the pipe scavenging
and also create a lean condition = boom goes all that work.
did you use a new crush gasket to seal the exhaust ?

drill/tap to the next american size bolt if needed, it's closer in size than the next size metric bolt.
you can also take out those studs and use bolts, maybe there's some threads in deeper that can be grabbed ?

something I never knew till recently......the exhaust stud holes do go all the way thru and exit back between the fins.
my buddy rednecked one where he shaved down nuts to fit between the fins and held them in there until the bolt going thru grabbed the nut, not the best but may be worth a try versus boom
 
Yeah I have a new crush gasket though i doubt its been crushed yet.... The studs are allready completely gone... I was thinking about maybe trying to get a small nut between the fins and running a washer..... Or maybe even threading through the fin? A helicoil kit is almost as expensive as just getting a new Jug. What about copper RTV the gap, or maybe thermosteeling a new stud in there?