The basket is very lightly grooved so I'll file it and order new plates and get back and let ya know if that did it. I greatly appreciate you all helping narrow it down.
losing power when put in gear.
- Thread starter xxxBlasterxxx
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The basket is very lightly grooved so I'll file it and order new plates and get back and let ya know if that did it. I greatly appreciate you all helping narrow it down. It's 80 or 85w honda wet clutch oil. Somthin they gave me at the local honda shop as there isn't a yamaha close by.
I put 700 ml first because it was a fresh rebuild so I thought I should add a little more than the 650.
Tensioned to 7.5ft lbs the springs are at the correct length.
Loosen them and the risk of them falling out is great!
Tighten them and the risk of them breaking off is extreme!
Extra oil can cause over heating, clutch drag, pressurisation which could blow an oil seal if the breather is obstructed.
Pre mixing oil can call for a larger main jet.
If you are anywhere around sea level! the needle set where you have it, is too lean, which could cause stumbling off idle an let it die when you give it throttle.
Set the float level, needle middle clip, set the idle as per specs and try again.
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Everything is set per spec now. The springs torqued at 4.5lbs needle set to middle. Screws set to factory, new clutch plates, basket has no grooves. Still falling on its face when I try to take off.
Have you leak tested the engine?
Will it let you put it into gear, and then die when you let the clutch out.
Please fully describe what happens as it dies.
Will it let you put it into gear, and then die when you let the clutch out.
Please fully describe what happens as it dies.
Leak down tested twice and it was perfect no loss of pressure at all. Compression is at 124. It starts and idles fine. Tho when I rev it up its kind of sluggish and doesn't rev to the rpm I think it should. Anyway. It will go into gear fine. As I let out on the clutch no matter what rpm I'm at it will go forward a very little and the motor bogs way down sometimes I can pull the clutch back in and get it back to idle but more so than not it just bogs out and dies. I can rev it 1/2 throttle and it'll do the same. I have the needle set in the middle. And everything set to stock. I've cleaned the carb thoroughly, pulled all jets and cleaned.
a leak test is not 124psi. that is a COMPRESSION test. just to clarify, a comp test will not tell you anything about leaks unless the head is leaking majorly
build or order a leak down tester from Awk08 and do a proper leak test. report back with results
If they weren't grabbing it would just slip wouldn't it? It's killing the motor as if it's tryin to take off in 5th gear.it tries to take off but half way outta the clutch it dies. I just put new clutch plates and springs in and adjusted it to where it's supposed to be.
Float level is dead on too. Any other ideas of what would cause this? I just got the carb back together.....again.....cleaned everything again. It's all set to stock I'm going to put it back on and try to tune it and see if that helps anything. Even if it's not tuned 100% right it should drive shouldn't it? Maybe like sh*t but it should at least take off?
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I was just throwing the compression in there too. I leak tested at 6 psi for 5min. I wasn't saying the compression test was the leak test.
Let us recap, tick what you have done.
Leak test, passed.
Float adjust.
Checked to see if a steady flow of fuel flows when drain is cracked open.
Timing at the correct time.
Plastic washer under the needle clip.
Idle set as per specs..
Please list other things you have done that would stall the engine.
Do you have a park brake on?
Leak test, passed.
Float adjust.
Checked to see if a steady flow of fuel flows when drain is cracked open.
Timing at the correct time.
Plastic washer under the needle clip.
Idle set as per specs..
Please list other things you have done that would stall the engine.
Do you have a park brake on?
Leak test, passed.......yes
Float adjust......yes
Checked to see if a steady flow of fuel flows when drain is cracked open......yes
Timing at the correct time....can the timing be off? everything was put back in the stator side as it was removed and locked down. I didn't think you could adjust timing without making the mounting holes larger? I may be wrong correct me if I am
Plastic washer under the needle clip......yes theres one on top of the c clip and one under. is that correct?
Idle set as per specs......yes
Do you have a park brake on?.....no parking break wires.
only thing I have done was removed all the oil injection stuff. pump, gear, everything and blocked it off. removed the tors with the kit and installed the idle screw. ive been adjusting the idle with the cable until I get everything set then I will set the screw in place. slightly larger piston cylinder was bored and honed for the piston. other than that I put everything stock back that I replaced which was only the crank, bearings and seals and none leak.
Float adjust......yes
Checked to see if a steady flow of fuel flows when drain is cracked open......yes
Timing at the correct time....can the timing be off? everything was put back in the stator side as it was removed and locked down. I didn't think you could adjust timing without making the mounting holes larger? I may be wrong correct me if I am
Plastic washer under the needle clip......yes theres one on top of the c clip and one under. is that correct?
Idle set as per specs......yes
Do you have a park brake on?.....no parking break wires.
only thing I have done was removed all the oil injection stuff. pump, gear, everything and blocked it off. removed the tors with the kit and installed the idle screw. ive been adjusting the idle with the cable until I get everything set then I will set the screw in place. slightly larger piston cylinder was bored and honed for the piston. other than that I put everything stock back that I replaced which was only the crank, bearings and seals and none leak.
This may sound stupid but did you put the piston in facing the correct way?
Woodruff keys have been known to break, even fall in the dirt on assembly!
Was the idle set with a hot engine, with it running?
Woodruff keys have been known to break, even fall in the dirt on assembly!
Was the idle set with a hot engine, with it running?
yes piston is in right, rings are positioned right
I will check the flywheel right now and make sure the key and all are still in tact and that the stator is tight
idle was set after warm up........any idea on what would cause it to just loose all power on take off? ive rode for a long time with a clutch so im not just a noob who cant ride. im stumped and have been since I got it all assembled and running. I may have to take it to a dealership if I cant get it straight.
got pics?
it is hard to help cuz we have never seen it lol
Are you brakes rubbing?
does chain and axle spin freely?
Did you find any metal shaving when you drained the oil?
it is hard to help cuz we have never seen it lol
Are you brakes rubbing?
does chain and axle spin freely?
Did you find any metal shaving when you drained the oil?
brakes are all new and adjusted right. When pushed it rolls perfectly. No shavings in the fluid. I could take pics but would that really help as far as you being able to see what it's doing? I could take a video and post to YouTube in the morning so you could see and hear for the most part of what it is doing if that would be more help?
