Yes, i will do that tomorrow. I have a new set of stockers but damn the port job is so large the stocker will restrict big time . Will the stocker work for an idle test because of the huge diferance?
keihin 35 mm idle issues
- Thread starter mmajay
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Yes, i will do that tomorrow. I have a new set of stockers but damn the port job is so large the stocker will restrict big time . Will the stocker work for an idle test because of the huge diferance?
it might change ur jetting a tiny bit, goin back to stock. but it will defently work jsut to try and get the carb to idle...just go back to middle clip on the needle and 1 and half turns on the airscrew and start from there
Ok, read thru all the new stuff you talked about with Freek...
I agree that the most likely thing is being too rich. If you pull on the choke but it doesn't help or kills it, there ya go. This being a fairly stock motor (piped and open airbox) you might still have way too big of a pilot at 42 (it's just a big carb for a non-ported motor). I would lean toward a 35 with the slide just cracked open. Since the PWK doesn't have a totally separate idle circuit (I believe) like the PJ, the size of the pilot also determines where the idle mixture is going to be. Adjusting the mixture screw without effect indicates the pilot is too big or too small. I lean towards too big.
Float level could still be an issue, and float level affects everything. Use the clear tube method to check actual fuel level. It talks about it in the carb section of the manual. Basically, with the carb installed, you attach a clear piece of hose to the overflow on the bottom of the bowl, open the drain screw, and hold the tube against the side of the bowl. It should be about 1/8 above the gasket surface.
I doubt it has enough velocity/volume to pull on the main jet at idle, making the needle a non-issue, but I wouldn't rule anything out totally.
I mentioned the spark because yes, it is possible to have a weak spark, although it should crap out on the top end too, but also to make sure you had no lingering TORS issue. You never said whether you disconnected the TORS control box from the cdi.
I agree that the most likely thing is being too rich. If you pull on the choke but it doesn't help or kills it, there ya go. This being a fairly stock motor (piped and open airbox) you might still have way too big of a pilot at 42 (it's just a big carb for a non-ported motor). I would lean toward a 35 with the slide just cracked open. Since the PWK doesn't have a totally separate idle circuit (I believe) like the PJ, the size of the pilot also determines where the idle mixture is going to be. Adjusting the mixture screw without effect indicates the pilot is too big or too small. I lean towards too big.
Float level could still be an issue, and float level affects everything. Use the clear tube method to check actual fuel level. It talks about it in the carb section of the manual. Basically, with the carb installed, you attach a clear piece of hose to the overflow on the bottom of the bowl, open the drain screw, and hold the tube against the side of the bowl. It should be about 1/8 above the gasket surface.
I doubt it has enough velocity/volume to pull on the main jet at idle, making the needle a non-issue, but I wouldn't rule anything out totally.
I mentioned the spark because yes, it is possible to have a weak spark, although it should crap out on the top end too, but also to make sure you had no lingering TORS issue. You never said whether you disconnected the TORS control box from the cdi.
Yes, i disconnected the tors properly and this motor is a stroked motor with an aggressive port job and head work. Going to try the reeds in a few min to rule that in or out, thanx and keep up the advise because i am going over all input and trying to get it right. I ordered some new jets and a new needle and i will work on it when i get the new jets in to try and lower jetting. The bike is wicked fast when it hits powerband. I am very glad i didnt go under 4" in my swingarm or it would be a little crazy/scary. I will post back next week to hopefully say I figured it out or looking even more help.Thanx everyone for the input.
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Oops, my bad. I didn't catch the porting earlier. Well, scratch about half of my last post! LOL
Good luck.
Good luck.
Just for the heck of it i bought another coil and swapped it tonight and bam it finally will hold an idle. I never thought a bad coil would run great on the high end but sh*tty down low. Now i can dial it in better and throw my better reeds in and move on.
Thanx a ton to everyone who was helping me try to solve this issue because i know carbs to a small extent unlike a few others on here. Everyones input saved me from buying unneeded parts like i don't have enough,lol. I:I
Thanx a ton to everyone who was helping me try to solve this issue because i know carbs to a small extent unlike a few others on here. Everyones input saved me from buying unneeded parts like i don't have enough,lol. I:I
Me either, but relieved. Honestly i dont know if it was the coil or a bad connection on the coil because i cleaned the connections good and it worked. I was leaning to something to do with spark or electrical because it would idle when on a cold start or in the morning and every once in a while. A coil was a cheap part to try out. I did learn alot about that air striker carb by tearing it apart and re-jetting 20 times. My next step will be a plug chop or two when I get time. I settled for starting at 160 main and 42 pilot untill i do a chop. The v-force 2 reeds are much better than the boyseen reeds when in the power band. Front lifts hitting peak H.P. with the v force and not with the stock reed cage and boyseen reeds.
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