WWhat's going on fellas ..... just a question, I have a kdx200 carb on my blaster and it works great I just recently found out the come stock with a 160 main jet, and blaster are I beleave a 130 .. I have a fmf pipe straight gold series im bored out. 40 over and have a pod airfilter just wanna make sure im not running wrong jets... any input would be great.
kdx200 carb
- Thread starter jerseyblaster
- Start date
It is possibly a Keihin PWK35 if it came from a KDX200, they are great carbs for top end power. Possibly a slight overkill for a stock Blaster, as the stock 26mm Mikuni will handle your mods excellently.
They use different rated jets than a Blaster, and stock main is #230 for a Blaster.
Plug chop to confirm jetting.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
They use different rated jets than a Blaster, and stock main is #230 for a Blaster.
Plug chop to confirm jetting.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Yes it is im srry 230 main jet I apologize about the wrong info.yeah I dont have any probs with it I do feel like my first and second gear is a bit short tho, could that be a reason for that?
The plug looks a bit lean...if I were to throw my stock carb in there ,what jets should I use ...
Yes I have a pod filter fitted to the back of the carb.I have a sst gold series pipe from head straight back,I have a bore. 40 over, and I have a reed spacer also .... then just the kehin carb off the kdx200 that's all I have.
I am not over familiar with the SST , but the following should put you in the ballpark.
#300 - #310 main jet.
Needle on middle slot.
#32.5 pilot.
You must plug chop to confirm, I take no responsibility!
That's very true my mind is all over the place lol srry so if I put a stock carby in ill start with a 300 main jet and then see what happens
Start big and work back.
I would not be surprised if a SST required a bigger jet than a #310, I have had no experience with them so I am stabbing in the dark.
I may just Google and try to find out., Wanna race me at the Google track.
I would not be surprised if a SST required a bigger jet than a #310, I have had no experience with them so I am stabbing in the dark.
I may just Google and try to find out., Wanna race me at the Google track.
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