is it blown???

91yamahablaster said:
lol well when i had to get my cylinder bored for my other blaster my local yamaha dealer charges 90 to bore and cross hatch a cylinder! it was actualy 88.75 but close enough
Click to expand...

The dealer doesn't bore anything... they find a local machine shop (note, they have to have a lathe and hone in house and it should be filled with greasy guys and have HEAPS of engines laying around everywhere) who charges them $45 and then they charge you a "fee" of $45....

A bore job on a single cylinder engine should cost ~$50.
 
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I agree ^^^^^


Ken does great work but is not the only competent machinist in the world. Just make sure to ask around to get a feel for different shops. Usually a wait in line is a good sign...
 
brandoz28 said:
I agree ^^^^^


Ken does great work but is not the only competent machinist in the world. Just make sure to ask around to get a feel for different shops. Usually a wait in line is a good sign...
Click to expand...

Your all just jealous! Because he does all his own work in his shop!! :D
 
I believe it is $55 bucks plus the ride, cost me $18 bucks to send my cylinder both ways! so a total of $73.
 
cheese and rice.. find a local shop and ask them questions. if the answers dont make sence, call another one. the main question you should ask is can they bore that size. most shops around me dont... then ask if they chaimfer the ports for you because that should be included. be sure and bring them the piston and i recomend weisco
 
slickerthanyou said:
Your all just jealous! Because he does all his own work in his shop!! :D
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That's good business.

Again, not knocking what Ken's doing... only that "just send it to Ken" biased advice.

There are thousands of good machine shops around the country. Any one of which can bore a single cylinder engine.

Now, back to the original problem! To measure piston to cylinder clearance, you need a set of calipers (electronic are easier but vernier will work too) and an inside bore gauge. Both can be had from Harbor Freight (or similar "inexpensive" tool store) for about $35

Digital Calipers - Save on these 6 Inch Digital Calipers

6 Piece Technical Measuring Set

(the one you would use to measure the bore is the second one from the left on the second link)

You would compare the measured values to the service manul values to figure out the difference in the diameter of the piston and the diameter, taper, and out of round of the cylinder.
 
I know, it just cracks me up when someone suggests using KOR, and a few of you guys jump all over that!

I agree, there are others who Can do the work, possibly locally, but I have went outside the BOX, and got burned!

I will stick with Ken and pay shipping, it is well worth the piece of mind and wallet to have it done properly the first time.
 
91yamahablaster said:
so my gpa just brought up a good point could the blow by and coking cause it to suddenly stop?
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Probably not. Blowby is generally a slow and steady sort of process.... not sudden!

The blowby and coking are PROBABLY unrelated to the sudden stopping. The sudden stopping could be a clogged carburetor, airleak suddenly getting much worse, blocked gas tank vent, ignition failure....
 
slickerthanyou said:
I know, it just cracks me up when someone suggests using KOR, and a few of you guys jump all over that!

I agree, there are others who Can do the work, possibly locally, but I have went outside the BOX, and got burned!

I will stick with Ken and pay shipping, it is well worth the piece of mind and wallet to have it done properly the first time.
Click to expand...

But you know you just have the worstest luck evers!

Why did that particular person not suggest using Wildcard, he does all his own work in house? Or perhaps Tudor's performance.... they do practically every type of engine building imaginable! Nope, someone who's seemingly unattached to any particular engine builder (I see no suggestion of any affiliation to any particular builder ing 89blaster89's siggy) suggested mailing a cylinder potentially halfway across the US at the drop of a hat...

If he had suggested mailing any other part to anywhere else, that would have seemed ridiculous and believe me, I would have called that one out too....

Now back to the OP's problem. The knocking you're describing just before it quit sounds like a fuel delivery issue. When engine's run lean (whether from an airleak or fuel delivery problem) they idle way up and knock (predetonate) like hell. Shortly after, they usually cut off! LOL. Check the fuel delivery (petcock stand tube included) system for any blockages
 
91yamahablaster said:
hmm ok so....should i bore get new piston then look for why or vice versa
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Well, this is where having the tools yourself or a local machine shop at hand comes in handy. I wouldn't bore it unless it needs it. You don't know if it needs it until you have the piston to cylinder clearance measured. Either you need the precision measuring equipment (^^^^^^ I listed the pages above) or local machine shop to measure it. It doesn't make much sense to pay to mail it off to have it measured (and have Ken tell you the bore is fine) and if you bore it unecessarily, you're on your absolute last bore....

If the bore is good, then you need to go looking for the cause of the shut off and not messing around with boring and a new piston.
 
sicivicdude said:
But you know you just have the worstest luck evers!

Why did that particular person not suggest using Wildcard, he does all his own work in house? Or perhaps Tudor's performance.... they do practically every type of engine building imaginable! Nope, someone who's seemingly unattached to any particular engine builder (I see no suggestion of any affiliation to any particular builder ing 89blaster89's siggy) suggested mailing a cylinder potentially halfway across the US at the drop of a hat...

If he had suggested mailing any other part to anywhere else, that would have seemed ridiculous and believe me, I would have called that one out too....

Now back to the OP's problem. The knocking you're describing just before it quit sounds like a fuel delivery issue. When engine's run lean (whether from an airleak or fuel delivery problem) they idle way up and knock (predetonate) like hell. Shortly after, they usually cut off! LOL. Check the fuel delivery (petcock stand tube included) system for any blockages
Click to expand...
the petcock works good i turn the fuel on and it has a steady stream. so i think im down to a really bad airleak or a ignition faliure. should i put the cylinder back on and leak test or get new piston first
 
You really kind of blew the opportunity to proper leakdown test when you yanked the cylinder off already. Unless you have another set of gaskets you can use, you're going to leak at the basegasket no matter what now.

You don't have to have another piston *IF* the cylinder to piston clearance is OK, you can scuff down that carbon (following the instructions in the yamaha factory service manual) by using 400grit sand paper and a gentle crosshatch motion. You will definitely need another set of rings as it looks like those have had it!
 
91yamahablaster said:
lol ok si guess you answerd before i could ask! ill get ahold of a bore gauge and check that bore
Click to expand...

You can either get the tools to do it yourself or if you're not comfortable doing it yourself, stop by a local machine shop and ask them to measure the bore size. You *could* mail it to Conneticutt to get the bore measured but if it's in spec, you've basically wasted the shipping charges.

The best course of action it up to your wallet, attitude, and skill level....
 
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