is cylinder work mandatory?
- Thread starter blaster187
- Start date
If you are going to put in a new piston and rings the cylinder will need to be honed.
T he rings need to cut their way into the cylinder to allow a good seal.
The cylinder wall must not be silky smooth, the rings will never bed properly!
Please tell me that is not a blue/green paper base gasket that I see.
They have been known to be unreliable!
T he rings need to cut their way into the cylinder to allow a good seal.
The cylinder wall must not be silky smooth, the rings will never bed properly!
Please tell me that is not a blue/green paper base gasket that I see.
They have been known to be unreliable!
the bronze discoloration is the burn pattern, and may eventually be carbon buildup
neither is a reason to replace the piston.
if the piston to cylinder clearence and compression are within specs, that piston does not need replaced
neither is a reason to replace the piston.
if the piston to cylinder clearence and compression are within specs, that piston does not need replaced
cool, thanks. do you think sea foam treatment would be a good idea once i put everything back together?
no need, the discoloration is normal.
put it back together with oem or cometic gaskets, leakdown test it, heat cylces and retorque, then ride that sucka
That piston looks barely used.
Maybe post pic of exhaust and intake side of piston and one of bore.
If you finally got it leak free, why did you take it apart? By chance did you do a comp test before?
I see you have a Vito's Super Stock piston. What other mods do you have with it?
Maybe post pic of exhaust and intake side of piston and one of bore.
If you finally got it leak free, why did you take it apart? By chance did you do a comp test before?
I see you have a Vito's Super Stock piston. What other mods do you have with it?
If you have to look closely I fear there may just not be enough hatching to bed rings.
It should be fairly easy to see the pattern from way across the room.
Dont do it? lol Take it a machine shop. Send it to a reputable machinist. No sense in doing it wrong the first time and then having to redo it wasting time and money, most importantly trail time lol
I hone all my own cylinders, it takes under 5mins, I use a ball hone, the stone hone is more aggressive an less forgiving,
Yes do not use a stone hone. It could catch a port and gouge things. Use a ball hone and try and get a hone around 10% larger that the bore you are honing. What you have there is a stock bore on a 240. Try and keep things in good order and only bore if necessary so you can get the most life out of that cylinder. Unfortunately the 240's don't give you many over bores. Also you can take notes on the burn pattern on the piston. Looks pretty good to me. Any way of posting a pics of the cylinder bore, intake, exhaust and transfer ports?
