Help with steps to complete TORS delete - Carb clean/rebuild - Tune

Nov 12, 2017
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Lost... As usual
'04 Frankenblaster: diagnosis / burn off fuel ride results. 3 consecutive days of one kick starts. Feels like possible throttle response issues as well as mid range power issues. During final ride 6th gear at 90% throttle, backfire and stall. 3 kick restart with noticeable bogging. Drained fuel, noticed petcock leaking, pulled rear plastic buy removing several zip ties, Cleaned K&N, Pulled rest of plastic, Tank, Petcock and one disaster of a TORS "sort of" deleted wiring harness... Spent the next few hours removing all unnecessary wires, re wrapped, and re route of Harness. Leaving only head lights (3 wires), Control unit (2 wires) CDI (3 wires) Ignition coil (2 wires) and CDI Magneto (4 wires) Bonded TORS Power to ground with all grounds bonded to common. tested positive for spark. reinstalled tank, premix 32-1 with 98 octane. 3 or 4 kick resulted in a 20 second awful sounding start. then bog to stall with no additional restart. several attempts to restart with various choke and screw settings with 4 - 5 fires but nothing sustainable. sounds like (to the untrained ear) fuel air mix? researched deeper in to TORS delete. NO KIT installed. both throttle body covers on top of carb are missing. Also discovered Throttle cable comfortably melted to head pipe due to improper support. Being held together by electrical tape on the control side to fasten cable to control. Noticed leak still at petcock after cleaning and installation. End of Day 1

Ordered Vito's TORS deletion kit.
Carb rebuild kit.
OEM Petcock
150 pc Yammerhammer bolt/fastener kit
replacement right rear fender brace.

Lacking one component to complete Fab of Leak down tester. Should be able to find today.

Bolt kit and fender brace both arrived day early. Hoping the same happens with rest.

Now everyone is up to speed. Any questions comments PLEASE and Thank You.

The Plan:
#1 Pull Carb, CLEAN and rebuild. inspect float height, inspect condition and size of jetting, install delete kit,.... MISSING ANYTHING???? ANY RECOMMENDATIONS????????

#2 Pull Exhaust, inspect gasket and joint CLEAN

#4 Install new Petcock

#3 Preform LEAK DOWN TEST and Pray to the Dark Lord

#4 preform Human sacrifice (one life for another)

#5 Reinstall all components and Anoint with the blood of an innocent.

#6 Fire it up!!!! either Scream It's ALIVE or get drunk and cry myself to sleep.

Anything I forgot or should check??? Any advice, wisdom, thoughts, past experience, rituals, Dark incantations, or names of demons to invoke would be much appreciated...
Thank You Ye wise Blaster riders of the Clan 2 Stroke ...
 
Check reeds for cracks, chips, gaps or missing petals.
New B8ES plug.
Check flywheel woodruff key is present and aligning flywheel with timing slot.

Only connect the 2 wires for TORS together right at CDI/TORS unit as shown in the DIY thread in electrical section

Unplug parking brake wire from switch at handle

make sure no black with white stripe is connected to ground or solid black wire
 
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Check reeds for cracks, chips, gaps or missing petals.
New B8ES plug.
Check flywheel woodruff key is present and aligning flywheel with timing slot.

Only connect the 2 wires for TORS together right at CDI/TORS unit as shown in the DIY thread in electrical section

Unplug parking brake wire from switch at handle

make sure no black with white stripe is connected to ground or solid black wire

Thanks AwK,

Will triple check all of the above.
Just curious what is the reasoning for the specific location of the TORS power termination????
 
you need to fool the TORS brain into thinking everything is working as it should, severe and connect it's main arteries right where it exits the brain ....... medulla oblongata :)
if it's left to run to any of the switches, it will sense a failure.

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/

Yes sir. I Understand that by removing the TORS wiring eliminates the ability of the TORS Circuit to open. By splicing the send to receive permanently closes the circuit. During normal operation, the circuit path is from these two points. Which is where the splice is to be made.
 
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