I have a 2002 blaster and someone has stripped the I guess u would call it a guide screw for the valve it's right side of the carb if your sitting on the quad is there anyway to fox this the guide is not sit right so the valve will not go down please help or if anyone has a carb for sale for cheap let me know
Guide screw for throttle valve
- Thread starter Jerry mcgregor
- Start date
No I still have the tors top on it so the idle screw is up there it is truly just a small screw that goes thru the side of the carb that the throttle valve lines up with
The groves on the side of the slide is what slides over it I guess to keep it straight as you go up and down in your throttle
The groves on the side of the slide is what slides over it I guess to keep it straight as you go up and down in your throttle
I have the rest of the tors removed so even if someone has a carb that will direct fit with cable ill be happy with that but I would like to like fix this one since its a very good carb I was think Mabye drill out the old screw and. Get a new one but I don't know what it's called or if I can even buy one 89blaster if you can tell me how to post pics ill post one to show what I'm talking about
I think I know what you're talking about. Rectangle shaped tang/peg that sticks into slide bore that keeps the slide from spinning? Not really a screw, it is kind of a press fit, then is "staked" in place. If you lost yours, maybe get a junk carb (stripped top, etc) take the tang out and put in yours. Use some super glue on it. After it dries stake it in place.
Staking is the process of deforming the metal around the hole. I used a small, sharp cold chisel and holding at an angle so as to only cut the edge of hole, staked it in three/four places, I forget how many I did. You don't need much of a hit as carb is alum.
Staking is the process of deforming the metal around the hole. I used a small, sharp cold chisel and holding at an angle so as to only cut the edge of hole, staked it in three/four places, I forget how many I did. You don't need much of a hit as carb is alum.
Staking can also be done using a centre punch instead of a cold chisel.
One does not need to deform the parent metal very much.
One does not need to deform the parent metal very much.
Thanks guys I've really been freaking out as I've only had the blaster for 2 weeks and only paid 600 for it in good running condition other then the fact it idles like its trying to fly. What would be the best way to get it out just drill it I guess as I tried tapping it out.
And blaaster I've read a lot of your post and you have already helped me out a lot
And blaaster I've read a lot of your post and you have already helped me out a lot
You may have read that I nearly always say that this condition usually requires a leak test to see if it is air tight.
Any purchase of a second hand 2 stroke should be immediatley leak tested.
I did notice that I read this forum for 2 days before I agreed to buy it and had it leak tested before even paying for it and also I have the carb in the shop outback and that is in fact what it is I was going to clean the carb and when I popped off the tors cap that is still on it I seen the valve was stuck and that was the problem I'm going to buy a new carb to finish the tors removal I just want it running for now as that's a little down my mods list. But as far as get this old guide out I just drilled it out all I need to figure out now is how to get the one out of this junk carb I just ordered with out doing damage to the guide
One thing I know can answer to blaaster why in the world are there so many blank cut outs on the flywheel cover that are just blocked off with rubber bushing?
Cant answer that question!
I fear that getting the pin out of the junked carb is going to be one tall order.
I couldn't agree more the guy says the carb was good when he removed it off a running bike to put on a larger carb while doing his tors removal final stage so I may just clean it real good and throw my jet kit and all in it and see if she fires up
Have to realize this motor was also used for an enduro bike. one plug would be wires to neutral indicator light. Other I could only guess, possibly extra wires for more lighting? Or power valve on DT? To remove tang grind staking away, should pop out. Might have to help it, small pry bar , wooden stick, from inside?
I only ask because there is one cut on the bottom side and went out with a carb of a buddy's project blaster and hit 1 mud puddle I call it more like a mud hole getting out to the hills stator got wet I was dead for 2 hours with a hair dryer drying it out funny stuff man
Not sure what you're asking here but this ^^^^ is a clasic example of tors malfunction.
I was riding in a light rain and had to stop several times to dry my throttle housing out.X(
Yeah, when you get time and $$$ get the complete kit, cable , cap, etc.. Well worth it. I had the original cable break inside the box. Was not a fun ride back to the truck. Reverse threaded the cable, left lid off throttle , secured cable with vice grips. At least I didn't have to be towed.
No I am waiting on the parts to show up I'm looking to switch to twist throttle only thing I believe ill have problems with is putting the idle screws in haven't seen anything on how that's done I do have the old guide out of my carb already just incase this other carb ends up being crap
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